Once we applied a generous coating of assembly lube, we
installed the cam using a long bolt to prevent the marring
of any cam bearings or the camshaft itself. |
|
The cam was secured using the existing thrust plate. The
plate was retained with the factory bolts and torqued
to 12 ft lbs per specification. |
| |
|
|
Next, we added our new Cloyes double roller timing chain
set. The cam was installed straight up.
|
|
We secured the cam sprocket with an ARP bolt and washer
torqued to 45 ft lbs. We included the stock two-piece
fuel pump eccentric although we were not sure at this
point whether or not we would be going with electrical
or mechanical fuel delivery. |
| |
|
|
In order to accomodate the front sump pan we had to locate
a timing chain cover that had a dipstick thru-hole. Remember,
our bottom end came from a motorhome with a center sump
oil pan. 460's with center sump pans have a tube in the
pan and no dipstick thru-hole in the timing chain cover.
This early 460 cover needed a Heli-Coil for one of the
waterpump bosses. |
|
We went ahead and replaced the timing chain cover seal
while it was off. These are aluminum units so we were
careful to tap the seal in gently and evenly using a piece
of the neighbor's fence. Later covers use a front entry
seal, this early unit used a rear entry seal. Be sure
to install the seal with the sealing lip facing outward,
toward the damper. |
| |
|
|
With some RTV and the right gaskets we set up the waterpump
and backing plate. We torqued the waterpump-to-cover bolts
to 12 ft lbs. |
|
Even though you won't see a torque pattern for the timing
chain cover and water pump in your shop manual, we still
used common sense and tightened the bolts in an alternating
manner. We torqued the timing chain cover to block bolts
to 20 ft lbs. |
| |
|
|
We used an ARP harderned
oil pump drive shaft and a Melling High Volume Oil pump.
Be sure the drive shaft retainer clip on the shaft is
on the distributor side of the pump. Insert the other
end into the pump and install both the pump and shaft
in tandem. Torque bolts to 25 ft lbs. There is no need
to use RTV on the block-to-pump gasket. |
|
We fit the pickup onto the pump and tightened the bolts
to 15 ft lbs. We were optimistic that the stock replacement
pickup and stock pan would yield good pickup-to-pan clearance. |
| |
|
|
|
With the use of some spray adhesive
we fixed the cork oil pan rail gaskets to the block.
|
|
We also set the rubber end seals
in place. |
| |
|
|
We spread a 3/8" layer of clay along the bottom of
the pan and tightened it with a few bolts to insure that
the pickup was not going to contact the pan. After the
test fit, we found the pickup made a small impression
in the clay. This placed our pickup to pan clearance within
the acceptable 1/4" to 3/8" range. We then cranked
the motor to confirm that the pump was not going to
interfere with the crank's counterweights. |
|
Now that we were confident about
oil pump-to-pan clearance we used a spot of RTV at the
joints between the cork rail gaskets and the rubber end
seals. We used no RTV on either side of the pan rail gasket.
|
| |
|
|
We torqued down the oil pan bolts
to 10 ft lbs. Working from the inside out and alternating
from each side we fastened the pan in two stages to prevent
pan distortion or gasket extrusion.
|
|
Next, we rolled the motor over
and installed the crank spacer. Since this was a late
model 460 the spacer uses a counterweight, making this
an "externally balanced" big block. We kept
in mind that we would need a weighted flexplate to match. |
| |
|
|
In part one we removed this crank
key in the tear down process. Once we slipped the crank
spacer on, we re-installed the key to locate the harmonic
balancer. |
|
We installed our Pioneer brand Harmonic balancer. Be sure
you put the balancer on with the snout facing outward.
Because the 460 does not use an incorporated balancer
and crank spacer, it may be a little tricky for the newbie
to discern which way is out. |
| |
|
|
The timing pointer is fastened with one of the timing
chain cover through
bolts and a self-tapping screw. |
|
We planned to have an operating heater in our project
car but for now we just plugged the waterpump's heater
hose outlet with a brass plug.
|
Competition
Cams Xtreme Energy Camshaft and Lifters
