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For just about all of us Winter is here in full force and
that means the streets are wet and the tracks are closed.
However, hopefully, somewhere in a warm garage is your project
car getting warmed over for a new year. This is certainly
the case for our Project '67 Mustang. We're not hibernating
this winter. Nope. In fact you can bet we've already snuck
away from a neighborhood Christmas party or two, spiked eggnog
in hand, to turn some frigid wrenches.
We have some big plans for our flagship project car in 2006,
and we've already gotten a jump-start on them over the winter
holidays. We want to make the car an all around performer,
while still maintaining the 500+ small-block horsepower we
achieved this year with the supercharger. We still felt however
that the car was a bit crude, lending itself to nothing more
than short cruises or dragstrip duty. The combination of carburetor,
high-compression and a blower was just too raucous and unpredictable.
The low-hanging headers, drum brake rear end and drag oriented
suspension made it too clumsy on the street. All that is going
to change. What we want now is a street machine. A car that
is a blast to drive any day of the week for any distance.
It must have superb tunability and driveability. It must brake
and handle as well as a new vehicle. And of course it must
be even faster and stronger than before. That's our New Year's
Resolution, and we're going to achieve this with the vehicle
equivalent of an extreme make over. Here's a preview.
Extreme Makeover - Step 1
A few month back we analyzed Dart Engineering's new Pro-1
210cc CNC ported cylinder heads (see "Bulls
Eye".) The heads were impressive right out of the
box, flowing 292cfm intake and 214cfm exhaust at .600"
lift. More important was the stellar mid-lift flow numbers;
210cfm at .300" for instance. We immediately knew this
head would be a great upgrade for supercharged 331 motor in
our Project '67. Many of you will recall our efforts to tune
the blow-thru carburetor and Vortech S-trim combo (see "High
on Carbs"). While we were able to pump out over 516
horsepower at the wheels with under 6 psi of boost, the air-fuel
ratio was so lean it made the Olsen twins look fat.
We knew from the moment we embarked on supercharger idea that
we were on borrowed time with the motor due to the 58cc World
Windsor heads and resultant 10.3:1 compression ratio. This
sort of cylinder pressure, even with a measly 6 psi and 110
leaded fuel, is just simply boost unfriendly. So this is where
the 60cc Dart Pro-1 heads and a set of .060" Cometic
head gaskets come in. We'll end up with a resultant 9.4:1
compression ratio and a much stronger gasket than the OEM
replacement Fel-Pro we were running.

Here's the first part of the extreme makeover. Dart Pro-1
210cc heads and Cometic head gaskets. |

We cleaned up the sharp edges around the spark plug hole
to avoid hot spots which may lead to detonation. |

After a thorough cleaning of the block surface and head-bolt
holes, the Cometic gaskets are placed down. The open water
passages in the gasket go at the end of the block. |

The Dart heads are placed on the block. |

If you've ever been tempted to reuse head-bolts, here
is a reason to just chuck 'em and spend $50 on a new set.
The lower bolts sit in coolant passages and will corrode
over time, especially if you run mostly water like we
do. |

The intake ports on the Dart head are cut to the bigger
Fel Pro intake gasket (PN: 1262.) The Cometic head gaskets
do not have tabs for the intake gasket to lock into therefore
we used gasket adhesive to hold the gasket to the head. |

We're using Crane's QuickLift shaft rocker arms. The
rockers offer incredible strength via the shaft design,
but also claim power increases as a result of the innovative
geometry of the arm (See "Rock
Steady.") We'll put these to the test on a dyno
once the motor is running.
Since there is no stud, adjustment of valve lash or preload
is made by turning the pushrod cup. The cup can only be
turned up to 2 turns off the seat, otherwise the oil
hole alignment will be off. Therefore determining
exact pushrod length is critical. |

As with any rocker arm it is critical to obtain proper
roller-tip to valve stem alignment. The roller wheel should
be slightly inboard of the valve stem centerline when
the valve is closed. The roller tip should travel slightly
outboard at mid-lift and back towards center at full lift.
On a shaft rocker this geometry is affected by multiple
variables on the cylinder head, including stud mounting
hole centerline to valve stem centerline, valve stem length,
and pushrod length. Fortunately Crane has engineered a
variety of kits specifically for the types of aftermarket
small block Ford heads available. You'll only need to
perform the geometry check and make some minor corrections
if needed. |

To achieve the proper rocker arm geometry we could have
milled the stud mounting pad, changed to a longer valve,
or use valve stem lash caps. We opted for the caps as
they were the easiest option. |

The lash caps fit right over the valve stem and effectively
create a taller valve. This positions the shaft rocker
arm properly in relation to the valve and pushrod. |
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