Page 3 4
 

Comp Cams 262H Installation
With the heads torqued down we can proceed to installing the cams.


The lash adjusters and followers are set into placed. Many opt to install these after the cams are in place, however that will require the use of a special Ford spring compressor tool to enable the follower to fit under the cam lobe. This method is easier and acceptable.

Before putting the cams in place position the crankshaft so that the keyway is straight up in the 12 o'clock position. This is considered "safe mode" and unlike on most pushrod motors this ensures none of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC). This is important because once the cams are torqued down there will be valves hanging open that can contact a piston in the up position.


The cams come in two boxes and are unique to the left and right side of the motor. Be sure to check the engraving on the cam to ensure you've got the right cam on the right head. With the cam lightly oiled, or lubed with moly, set the cam girdles (or caps in the case of a Windsor head) in position. Snug the bolts down evenly and then torque to 89 lbs.in. Read that carefully, if you torque to foot-pounds you'll break and warp the caps.


Prior to installing the camshaft timing sprockets transfer over the spacers from the stock cams. Then slide on the gears aligning the keyway. The stock gears have the key cast into the sprocket while the Fidanza gears (shown) utilize a separate key. We had to cut the keys down to be flush with the gear because our spacers did not have a keyway slot. We suspect that some 4.6L motors (maybe from the Windsor Engine Plant) utilized a slotted spacer which enables for a longer key. We'll pass this along to Fidanza, maybe they can through two sizes of keys into the package.

Comp Cam's utilize M12x1.50mm bolts to retain the cam gears. These are also TTY bolts and while they should not be reused we know many guys do. The wiser choice is to just get a new set. We're using ARP#256-1001, it's the same bolt that holds the harmonic balancer so pick up three. Use the stock hardened washer behind the bolt. You'll need to hold the cam steady with a big wrench as shown and torque the ARP bolts to 60 lb.ft. Make sure that crank is set to safe-mode before you turn the cam!

The next step is to get the cams phased to the crankshaft position. This is done by installing the timing chains. Unlike on a pushrod motor where you simply line up the crank and cam gears and get the chain on, on overhead cam motors the idea is the same but the way you carry it out is a little more complicated to the fact you have two cams, four gears, and they are spread apart. Lay the chains out on a bench and fold them in half. You can fold them so the factory copper links are at each end. Cole recommends marking each end link of each chain with a paint mark to aid assembly.

Install the driver-side chain first, as it goes on the rear crank sprocket. Then install the passanger-side chain. Line up the red marked end links with the timing marks (NOT the keyways!) in the crank and cam gears. You may need to turn the cam shaft to make this happen. Don't turn the crank as it should be keyway-up in safe mode.

Shown is the timing mark on the crank sprocket. There is one mark but two sprockets. The end links (red marks) must line up dead on with this mark. Note that this timing mark is not the keyway.

On the cam gears the read mark must line up with the 0-degree timing mark. Again do not confuse this with the keyway. Note the 12 degrees of advance or retard possibility with the Fidanza cam gear. We'll discuss degreeing the cams on page 3.

Install the timing chain guides and tensioners (page 3 for tips on this) and perform a final check of all the timing marks. The chains wont have full tension until the tensioners are filled with oil, but there is enough to turn the crank now without worry of damaging a valve or piston.

Before installing the timing cover be sure to install the crank trigger wheel.

The timing cover can go back into place. The stock gasket/seal is reusable if it is not torn, however use a dab of silicone sealer where the cover meets the corners of the cylinder heads.
   

(4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks, including Degreeing Cams)
Page 3 4

Which Cams to Choose?

Comp Cams offers three off-the-shelf cams for '99+ 2V engines. We're told by HCI that the 272AH cam will require slight piston notching and a computer tune to raise idle speed and adjust air-fuel ratio.

GRIND
PART#
RPM
DUR
@.050"
XE262AH 102500 1200-
5200
226 230
XE270AH 102600 1600-
5600
234 238
XE272AH 102700 2000-
6000
242 246
All have 0.550" Valve Lift
All have 113° Lobe Sep. Angle