by FordMuscle Staff

The valve covers on a motor are like a family crest above a castle. They signify not only the caliber of motor on which they are bolted to, but the pride the owner, or engine builder, has taken in building that engine. It's for that reason that serious enthusiasts eventually invest in a set of proper valve covers to replace their stock steel or cheap catalog ornaments. Valve covers come in a variety of materials - from stamped steel or aluminum, to die cast aluminum, and even polymer composite. However, it is the fabricated (welded) aluminum which are the cream of the crop. Stamped and composite covers tend to warp with repeated removal and installation. In general, stamped covers are not good for the enthusiast who is constantly getting under his covers to adjust rockers. For this, only a quality pair of heli-arc welded billet aluminum covers will hold up for ever. Billet aluminum covers may cost several hundred dollars, but they will indeed be the last valve covers you ever buy. It's important therefore, that if you do spend some of your tax return on a set that you set them up correctly.

We're putting on a pair of Moroso's new fabricated billet covers for the 429-460 big block Ford. These are professional-grade covers and as such, they don't come pre-drilled for crank case ventilation. With covers like these you need to decide what type of PCV, breathers, or crankcase evacuation pump you plan to run and then modify accordingly. Follow along as we show you how to install a set of simple breathers without messing up your pricey jewels.

These are not inexpensive valve covers, but you get what you pay for in this case. Quality stuff. At this level, you are expected to know how to add breathers or an evacuation fitting.		Since we weren't running a crankcase evacuation setup, we needed to install some breathers and a place to add oil of course. These universal breather stands from Comp Cams bolt-on and allow use of clamp-on breathers.
I learned my lesson, whether it's an air cleaner element or a breather like this one, just buy K&N when you need a good filter. See "Stupid, Stupid Stupid" in the FMWire		Valve cover gaskets come in a variety of materials and thickness'. We went with these steel-core cork and rubber gaskets from Ford Motorsport.
We sized up a good spot on the valve cover to pop a 1-1/4" hole.		With a dry erase marker and an aluminum level, we marked off the centerline.
It's important to be very cautious around these aluminum valve covers, they can gouge easily with hand tools. A good quality hole saw and patience will do the trick. Got a drill press? Even better.		Here, we de-burr with a Dremel. This is important for two reasons. First, to prevent any flesh wounds and second to ensure a good seal once the breather stands are added.
With the breather stand base taped into place, we marked the locations for the four holes which would secure the assembly to the valve cover. Next, it was removed and the proper size holes were drilled.		The breather stand base is taped to the bottom and ready to receive the set screws.
With the valve cover flipped right-side up, the gasket is added to the base. Notice there is a baffle on the base.		Since we were performing this on both valve covers, one of the stands had its baffle removed to allow motor oil to be added easily.
This is the stand for which the baffle remained. Therefore, with the base and the stand, there are a total of two baffles on this valve cover.		The black screw came with the kit but caused some interference with the rockers.
The silver screws from Ace Hardware fit better. Click photo to enlarge.		This was a shot before we switched to the shorter screws. Anyway, all four were tightened so as not to extrude the gasket.
The special oil solution from K&N was added to each breather.		The finished product looks great. However, just like home improvement, remodel one area and suddenly there's more upgrading to be done.