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by Jon Mikelonis

What fits between three-hundred-fifty-one and four-hundred-twenty-nine cubic inches, accommodates the infamous Ford canted valve cylinder head, offers a half inch more stroke than a 351 Cleveland motor, and is sometimes referred to as an iron sanctuary for crustaceans? Congratulations, you got it... the boat anchor Ford 400. There's been quite a lot of talk about this mill lately both in the cellulose media and here digitally on FordMuscle. Well finally, the FordMuscle staff has taken the time to document and detail their own 400 build in order to encourage you to consider what has long been referred to as the oddball of the vintage Ford engine family.

While you'd be correct in saying that this isn't going to be the first article you'v e read on a street-oriented Ford 400, FordMuscle can promise you that this will be the most detailed and comprehensive. In the following pages, we'll be highlighting one real-world course-of-action taken for building a performance 400, taking you through component selection, machine shop interaction, and mockup. Before we get started, let's cover some previously published background material on the Ford 351M/400 engine family and preliminary articles specifically related to this 400 "Cleveland" build.

351M/400 - Find Performance Within the Other Aftermarket
Shortly after Hot Rod magazine published their story on a "400M" build in their February 2007 issue, we quickly put together a 351M/400 "desk reference" for the Ford enthusiast. The article's intent was primarily to showcase the hidden performance aftermarket for these castaway motors. While very valuable, the article was still hypothetical in nature in that FordMuscle didn't actually perform their own 351M/400 engine build. Our 400 Cleveland Build series can be considered a companion set to "351M/400 - Find Performance Within the Other Aftermarket". Better put, this article and the ones to follow will attempt to validate the positions and points made in our 351M/400 reference article. That is, you CAN build a stout 351M/400 using readily available Ford-specific performance parts, and there is no need to assume that "bastard truck motor" has to be replaced with a 460.

Rod N' Real - OEM Connecting Rod Preparation, Reconditioning, and Balancing The first measure taken for this build immediately addressed one of the 400's major shortcomings in the aftermarket relative to most any other Ford V8. That's right, no manufacturer (domestic or offshore) is producing an aftermarket connecting rod for the 351M/400. Since balancing the rotating assembly is one of the first steps in engine building, FordMuscle covered DIY rod preparation in the article Rod N' Real. Admittedly, the task can be arduous and even old-fashioned for some. For those unwilling to die grind 16 connecting rod parting lines, companies like tmeyerinc.com do offer reconditioned 400 rods complete with ARP hardware. This article will highlight some of the first interactions with our machinist and provide you a thorough reference for rod preparation.

Balancing Revealed - A Balanced Rotating Assembly is a Good Thing but What Does it Really Mean? "Balancing Revealed" covers the parts required to accomplish the sometimes mysterious engine machine shop procedure of rotating assembly balancing. The subject engine used for this article published in April 2008 was indeed the same Ford 400 we'll be covering here. Before a cutting tool even touched our 400's block, our machinist would need to balance the rotating assembly. With regard to our 400 Build or any engine build for that matter, "Balancing Revealed" provides you with the parts required and selected in order to perform proper engine balancing.

So What's the Application?
Our 400 will eventually end up in front of a T5 inside a 1972 Torino with no absolute racing duty, and we can guarantee the motor will not see a drag strip. For all intents and purposes, this buildup is considered a street performance motor best suited for a "resto-mod". The goal is to have a pump gas 9.5:1 400 perfect for warm summer night cruising, occasional blasts on open roads, and some eventual autocross American Iron Series fun.


In This Article...
FordMuscle takes you step-by-step through the mockup stage of a 9.5:1 Ford 400 build. This first installment in the series "400 Cleveland Build" stresses the importance of pre-assembly to
verify critical clearances and the value of personal accountability when working with a machine shop to create your own combo.

Page 2: Critical Parts Selection and Rationale
Most of the satisfaction of building your own motor comes from the uniqueness of the combination. Here we'll discuss the rationale behind the selection of the critical power producing engine parts for our 400 motor.

Page 3: Back From the Machine Shop and Initial Procedures.

The freshly machined and prepped 400 block, crank, and rod assemblies are back in the garage, so where do we start?

Page 4: Pre-Installing Crankshaft and Checking Main Bearing Clearance

In order to check piston-to-head clearance and piston-to-valve clearance,
the crank will need to be pre-installed. Might as well verify main bearing clearance while we're at it.

Page 5: Pre-Installing Piston and Rod Assemblies - Checking Rod Bearing and Piston-to-Head Clearance
Here we'll be showing how piston-to-head clearance is verified. This important step will ensure the desired 9.5:1 compression ratio and the "squareness" of the 400 block.

Page 6: Cam Degreeing and Checking Piston-to-Valve Clearance
Using a dial indicator and tester springs, we confirm the precise intake
and exhaust valve piston-to-valve clearance achieved after decking the block and using a custom piston.

400 Cleveland Build
Quick Facts

Block Factory Ford 400
.030" Over
10.235" Deck
Crank Factory Ford 400
.010"/.010" Grind
Rods Factory Ford 400
Prepped and Reconditioned
Pistons Probe Forged (FPS) 351C with custom 28cc dish and .975" pin bore
Camshaft Comp Cams
Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller
.578" Lift
230 Duration
PN 32-541-8
Heads Edelbrock Performer RPM for 351C
Intake TBD
Carburetor TBD
Ignition Mallory Max-Fire



Critical Parts Selection and Rationale
Choosing the raw parts for a Ford 400 doesn't start with dialing-up
the SCAT homepage. "Kitted" rotating assemblies are slim and expensive.
However, these motors can be fun to put together for an "old-timer" or "unique seeker" since reusing factory connecting rods or a factory crankshaft doesn't defy financial sense. As most of us know, typical small block and big block Ford motors are well served by a broad aftermarket of performance bottom-end components. Even with a good amount of 351 Cleveland aftermarket crossover parts available like pistons, camshafts, and cylinder heads, going beyond a standard remanufacture with a 400 means a moderate amount of parts research and straight talk with an engine machinist. On the up side, Ford 400 core availability is still high and therefore inexpensive.

Block and Machine Work - Original mileage 351M/400 seasoned cores are still plentiful. This project proved it since our chosen machine shop (Superior Machine of Sparks, Nevada) had a donor core in storage. Wrecking yards and internet classified listings support the fact that there are plenty of Ford enthusiasts willing to yard sale 351M/400 blocks to fund their 460 projects.

The block was bored and honed to .030 over using a torque plate to ensure the cylinders would not be out-of-round. Since torque plates mimic a cylinder head being bolted to the block, they are motor specific. In turn, many shops do not offer the service since having an arsenal of torque plates is a large capital investment. Whether it's for a Ford 400 or any motor, if you're having a block prepped, be sure it's honed using torque plates. To ensure main journal trueness, our block was align honed. Align honing is another procedure that isn't standard on all engine rebuilds.

The 400 block was decked to achieve a .010" piston-to-head clearance using our chosen Probe 351C piston. Common engine building lingo would refer to this as "10 in the hole". This was a critical measure in achieving the desired 9.5:1 compression ratio and proper combustion chamber quench. The factory deck of the Ford 351M/400 is 10.297" (distance from crank centerline to cylinder head deck). Augie Steinert, the machinist and shop owner on this job, calculated that a deck height of 10.235" would yield our desired .010" piston-to-head clearance after factoring in the custom Probe piston compression height and factory connecting rod assembly. Keep in mind that most factory blocks are not true, so simply machining .062" (the difference between 10.235" and 10.297") off the deck surface is not the solution. A quality machinist will understand and know how to make the block square, in our case the 400 block was machined to measure 10.235" from either deck surface at the front and rear of the block to the crankshaft centerline.

Crank - Even if we had been willing to pay for an aftermarket crank, we'd be hard pressed to find one for the 351M/400. Other than the tmeyerinc steel stroker crank mentioned in our 351M/400 reference article, the aftermarket isn't actively producing cranks for these motors. For this project we chose to grind a core, which just like the blocks, are available in second hand form. However, since the market as a whole is being saturated with aftermarket cranks for most domestic V8's, it can be difficult to locate someone in the immediate vicinity to grind a crankshaft. Crankshaft grinding, like connecting rod reconditioning, has become somewhat old-hat for many of today's machine shops. For this project, Superior Machine contracted out a .010/.010 regrind for our 400's crankshaft.

Connecting Rods - During the Summer of 2005, a rumor surfaced that a guy purchased a 5 gallon bucket of 351M/400 connecting rods for just $20. You should believe it because this bargain still holds true today. When prepared correctly an OEM Ford connecting rod of this vintage can be very durable. For this build we chose to prepare and recondition the factory rods as detailed in the article "Rod N' Real - OEM Connecting Rod Preparation, Reconditioning, and Balancing."

Pistons - For this project, we started with Probe's off-the-shelf .030 over FPS forged flat top piston for the 351 Cleveland (PN P2379F-030) and had Probe machine a 28cc dish to yield a streetable compression ratio when combined with Edelbrock's 60cc chamber 351C Performer RPM cylinder head. To accommodate the 400's .975" pin, our piston's pin bore was opened up from the 351C's smaller pin bore of .912".

The FPS (factory performance series) piston by Probe is designed as an upgrade over TRW replacements. They are a press-fit design. The Ford 400 and the 351C use the same bore and compression height to allow for the seemingly convenient interchange. However, depending on the chamber volume of your chosen cylinder head and the quest for good quench characteristics (.010" to zero deck clearance) with a streetable compression ratio, simply choosing a flat top Cleveland piston isn't the answer. For example, combine a 351C flat top piston and a small chamber (60cc) Aussie or Edelbrock 351C Cylinder Head on a Ford 400 and the result will be a street unfriendly compression ratio. Alternatively, running a 351C flat top piston (1.650" compression height) with an open chamber iron 351C 2V or 400 head, and an "undecked block" (.050" deck clearance) and you'll achieve a streetable compression ratio with mediocre quench characteristics.

If you haven't figured it out, our decision to run this custom Probe piston was the primary reason for a mandatory pre-assembly stage of this build, stroker motor or not. While we were 99% sure the critical clearances would check out, a custom piston and a reduced deck height required verifying consistent piston-to-head clearance and sufficient piston-to-valve clearance. Remember, to reach a 9.5:1 compression ratio the Ford 400 block was decked a significant amount, just over .060".

For those who don't mind the math, here's how we arrived at a 9.5:1 compression ratio.

Calculating Compression Ratio: 400 Cleveland Build
Displacement (D)
4.00 x 4.00 x 4.00 x 0.7854
Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854
Volume (PV)
28cc x 0.0610237
Piston Volume in cc x .0610237
Volume (DC)
4.00 x 4.00 x .7854 x .010
Bore x Bore x Stroke x Deck Clearance
Volume (GV)
4.00 x 4.00 x .7854 x .033
Bore x Bore x .7854 x Gasket Compressed Height
Volume (CCV)
60cc x 0.0610237
Combustion Chamber Volume in cc x .0610237

50.266+1.709+0.126+0.415+3.661 / 1.709+0.126+0.415+3.661 = 9.5:1

(D + PV + DC + GV + CCV) / (PV + DC + GV + CCV) = Compression Ratio

Camshaft and Lifters - We knew from the onset that we wanted this motor to run a hydraulic roller cam. Of course these motors never came from the factory with a roller cam, so we would need to convert the motor over. This will add some cost, but well worth the peace of mind knowing we won't have the possible wipe-loped headaches that come with flat-tappet cam break-in.

Converting a motor that wasn’t a factory roller has become much easier in recent years. Comp Cams and other manufacturers offer "link bar" roller lifters, roller camshafts, and the necessary pushrod lengths and hardened distributor gears to make the job easy. The roller cam is ground on a shorter base circle to keep the lifters from rising too high out of their bores, which could lead to oiling issues. Regardless, we still took a few seconds to verify that the lifter oiling hole was not exposed during maximum lift.

For this motor we selected the Comp Cams 32-541-8 Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam. With a conservative 230 degrees duration, the motor should have good idle quality. The .578 lift will get the valves open where the Edelbrock RPM heads breath the best (in our flow testing the intake side flowed 261 cfm at .500' lift an the exhaust flowed 160cfm at .600" lift.) With this cam, intake, and head combo we anticipate a motor that will make peak horsepower around 5600 rpm.

Here's the cam card:

Heads - We chose Edelbrock's 351C Performer RPM cylinder head primarily for its small 60cc combustion chamber and streetable intake runner volume. Of course the fact that these heads are available out-of-the-box as a bolt-on is just another added benefit over reworking factory iron heads. The benefits of the Edelbrock 351C head are discussed in greater detail in the article
"Cleveland Flow and Swirl Testing - Up close and personal with 351 Cleveland Runner Designs" that was published here on FordMuscle in April of 2007.

Ask an Edelbrock engineer what the key development area of their 351C head is over the factory head and they'll point immediately to the improved combustion chamber. The photos below indicate the more contoured chamber of the Edelbrock head which improves flame propagation and quench. Again, the 60cc chamber volume was a key component in determining the correct piston "dish" and resulting compression ratio.

Factory 351C 2V, 351M, 400 combustion chamber design.
Edelbrock 351C Performer RPM combustion chamber design.

Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads for 351C
Edelbrock has taken the best qualities from the Boss 302, 351C, 351M and 400M to produce the best performing Ford Cleveland head available. These 351C heads include stock intake and exhaust port locations, stainless steel valves, heavy-duty valve springs for up to .600" lift, CNC profiled port entries and bowl blending for optimum air-flow, 5/8" thick deck for positive gasket sealing and retention and Heli-Coiled in the exhaust bolt and rocker stud bosses for maximum strength.

The rocker set-up is based on the desirable Boss 302, adjustable 7/16" stud and guideplate configuration. With a "Yates inspired" fast burning combustion chamber and 190cc intake ports, this cylinder head is the perfect crossover for 2V and 4V applications, where low-end torque is vital and high-revving horsepower is a must.

See the FordMuscle article:
Cleveland Flow and Swirl Testing - Up close and personal with 351 Cleveland Runner Designs

Find out more about
Edelbrock's 351 Cleveland Heads at:





Back From the Machine Shop and Initial Procedures
After numerous calculations and drop-ins at the machine shop, the 400 block and crankshaft are both in our hands once again and the combo is ready for pre-assembly. Here's how we got started.

Installing Expansion and Oil Galley Plugs

We started off by unloading the block and setting it gently on the garage floor.
No engine stand yet, we needed to install the rear cam retainer since the back of the block would be inaccessible once on the stand.

Installing the rear oil galley plugs is not critical during the mockup stage but while we had the expansion plug set out, we screwed them in using a light amount of RTV. The rear oil galley plugs are pipe threaded for a tight interference fit.
With the block now on the engine stand we installed the six expansion plugs, also with some RTV.

For the sake of consistency, we installed the front oil galley plugs.
These plugs are adjacent to the front cam bore and are not pipe threaded like the rear plugs. We screwed them in firmly with RTV.

At this point we chased the main cap bolt holes with a tap. The same was done to the cylinder head bolt holes. Subsequently, the block was cleaned using compressed air, brake cleaner, and lint-free wipes.

Installing Camshaft
With full access to the 5 cam bores, now was a good time to install the camshaft even though we wouldn't be degreeing the cam and checking piston-to-valve clearance until other critical measurements were taken.

Special attention was paid to the cam bearings, being sure they were wiped free of any dust and small particles.
Each cam bearing was coated with Comp Cams Pro Cam Lube.

The cam was carefully threaded through each cam bore while being sure not to gouge a cam bearing.
We chose to use this Comp Cams Thrust Bearing Cam Retainer Plate instead of the factory plate. The assembly does require special machining of the cam sprocket for use.

Next, we secured the cam by installing the retainer. Finger tight is OK. Remember, we'll be going back through these areas during final assembly.
With the cam installed, we rotated it by hand at the dowel pin in order the coat the lobes with the same Comp Cams Pro Cam Lube used in Step 2 above.

Of course, pre-assembly wasn't completed in just one evening. Therefore, it's a good idea to keep your motor covered when time expires, especially with assembly lubricants acting as fly traps for dust.



Pre-Installing Crankshaft and Checking Main Bearing Clearance
In order to check the piston-to-head clearance, we needed to get the crank installed. The following sequence will show you how went about it.

With the main cap bolt holes clear of machining debris, we installed ARP studs just a pinch more than finger tight.
The main saddles were wiped clean with brake cleaner and lint-free towels.

Here we are installing the "block-side" Clevite 77 main bearings. The "block-side" main bearing halves incorporate an oiling groove. The grooved thrust bearing goes on journal number three.
We used lithium based Comp Cams Engine Assembly Lube to coat the main bearings once they were installed.

Once wiped down, the crank was ready ride the saddles.
The crank was carefully set in place with caution to avoid bumping a journal on a main stud.

After wiping down the main caps, we set the other half of the main bearings into place. No oil or assembly lube required here.
Now was the right time to check main bearing clearance, therefore no assembly lube was applied to the crank side of the bearing surfaces yet.

We used "Green" Plastigauge and set a length across one of the main journals. "Green" Plastigauge is for measurements between 0.001" and 0.003" inch - typical engine bearing clearances.
We proceeded to install all five main caps. The thrust main bearing and cap goes on journal number three.

ARP hardware requires the use of the included ARP moly. We applied some to the threads of each stud.
The caps were installed in an alternating sequence to 90 ft lbs. Once torqued down, the main caps were ready for removal.

Don't use a torque wrench to remove anything. Here, we're using a long breaker bar to break the nuts free of the main studs.
Some light upward tapping with a hammer helps dislodge the main caps.

We carefully lift the main cap to expose the journal where the Plastigauge was applied.
The Plastigauge indicated a main bearing to crankshaft clearance of between .0015" and .002". The allowable range for the Ford 400 is .0009" and .0026". Success!

With the main bearing clearance confirmed as allowable, we wiped the main bearings and caps clean, reinstalled them and applied some assembly lube the "crank-side" surfaces.
The main caps were then reinstalled and torqued once again. To reemphasize, this was not our final installation of the crankshaft for this build.




Pre-Installing Piston and Rod Assemblies - Checking Rod Bearing Clearance
With our crankshaft installed and the main bearing clearance confirmed, we moved on to verify that our rod bearing clearance was within specification.

We wiped down the number one rod and piston assembly.
Next, we cleaned the corresponding rod cap and fit one of our .010" oversized Clevite 77 rod bearings into place. Rod bearings are not location specific.

We proceeded to set the other rod bearing onto the rod. Like the main bearings, it's not necessary to use oil or assembly lube on the underside of the bearing. Although a small amount of oil can aid in installation.
Now we applied assembly lube to the "rod side" rod bearing but not to the "rod cap side" rod bearing since we'd be using Plastigauge in step 9 below.

Next, we wiped down the cylinders with brake cleaner and then coated them with 30 wt oil.
Some 30 wt oil was wiped onto the piston and skirts as well. Take note that pre-assembly doesn't require piston ring installation.

With rod bolt protectors in place, we dropped the number one piston into the number one cylinder.
ARP moly was applied to the threads of the rod bolts.

A strip of Plastigauge was set perpendicular across the rod journal.
The number one rod cap was torqued to 50 ft lbs.

Once the rod cap was removed, we confirmed that our rod bearing to crankshaft clearance was .001". The allowable range for the Ford 400 is .0008" to .0026".

Checking Piston-to-Head Clearance
Now that the rudimentary main bearing and rod bearing clearances were in the bag, the more exciting work was ready to be performed. Checking our 400's piston-to-head clearance would serve to validate that we correctly communicated our combo to all the parties involved. In this case those "party" members were the machine shop and the guys at Probe Industries.

Once the rod journal was wiped clean, we applied assembly lube to the "cap side" rod bearing surface.
No need to torque to specification this time since we were focused on the piston-to-head clearance. Snugging up the cap was suitable.

We rotated the crank by hand easily at the crankshaft snout just to make sure everything was spinning freely, it was.
We zero'd out a dial indicator on the deck using a Deck Bridge Tool from Proform.

Next, we positioned the deck bridge tool on the rear side of the piston just over the pin bore...
... and rotated the crank and took note of how close the dial came to zero. In our case, the dial came within .010" of zero. This was our deck height.

The same procedure was performed at the front side of the number one piston.
In that location, we also found the indicator came to .010" of zero. This was a good sign.

The piston and rod assembly was removed from the number one cylinder.
The same piston and rod assembly was used to confirm the deck height for each cylinder. Yes, we went through all eight.

All eight cylinders resulted in a .010" deck height. This confirmed that our block was square and that the correct amount of material had been "decked" at the machine shop.




Cam Degreeing and Checking Piston-to-Valve Clearance
The final test to prove that this combo was 100% viable was to check piston-to-valve clearance. Let's get it done.

We started by installing the Comp Cams Hi-Tech Roller Timing Set for 351C, 351M, and 400.
Comp grinds nearly all of their cams with 4 degrees of advance. Per the instructions the timing set was installed "dot over dot" as shown.

Next, we once again installed the number one piston and rod assembly into the number one cylinder.
An ARP cylinder head stud kit would serve to fasten our Edelbrock 351C heads to the 400. Here they are being installed finger tight.

We went with Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal head gaskets.
These Ultra Seal gaskets have a .033" compressed height.

To measure piston-to-valve clearance we would be using the test spring and dial indicator method. Here we are replacing the number one intake and exhaust valve springs.
These are the test springs up close.

We slipped the Edelbrock 351C head into place...
... and torqued it in proper sequence to 90 ft lbs.

A spare pair of hydraulic roller lifters stuffed with washers to make them solid were used to ensure accurate readings during cam degreeing and checking piston-to-valve clearance.
We had not selected a pushrod yet so we used an adjustable. With the intake valve fully closed, we installed a rocker arm to zero lash. The rockers we chose for this build were the Comp Cams Pro Magnums for Boss 302, 351C, and 429-460. PN 1330-16. Yes, their correct for a 400 as well!

Here's a shot of the test intake valve train in position to degree the cam.
Using the intake centerline method we confirmed that "dot over dot" was the correct position. Per the cam card, the cam phasing checked out with a 106 degree centerline. You may want to see the FordMuscle article "Dude, Don't be Retarded" for more info on cam degreeing.

With the cam degreed, we moved on to checking piston-to-valve clearance. Starting with the crank at 15 degrees before TDC of the exhaust stroke, we took measurements for both the intake and exhaust valve in increments. By depressing the rocker downward until it touched the piston we verified plenty of clearance up to 15 degrees ATDC.

Here are the exact measurements for our combo's piston-to-valve clearance. Augie Steinert at Superior Machine suggested this method. Sure beats the clay method!

Piston-to-Valve Clearance: Ford 400 Build
(Dial Indicator Method)
Crankshaft Position
Intake Valve
Exhaust Valve
15 degrees BTDC
10 degrees BTDC
5 degrees BTDC
2 degrees BTDC
2 degrees ATDC
5 degrees ATDC
10 degrees ATDC
15 degrees ATDC

What's Next?
With the critical measurements and clearances confirmed, we packed up the 400 and began thinking about the next steps towards final assembly. As with most projects at FordMuscle, there are short bursts of progress followed by lulls due to the multiple project commitments. We are confident that this represents the way you are forced to work as well. Our 400 Cleveland Build will see a bit of downtime until we complete the next phase of the project vehicle's T5 Conversion.

Posted by sobill, 06/28/08 10:40pm:
Really great article. Get on with Part 2! SOBill
Posted by fordmonsta, 06/29/08 06:07am:
i have a similar built 400 in a 71 ford truck, makes tons of torque and idles like a stock motor, kills chevrolets when traction permits, wish more folks in teh aftermarket would lean in an ear and start making a few more parts for these motors
Posted by rustedduster, 06/30/08 03:23pm:
i also have just built a 400 for my 79 f100. it was built using a 351M block, 400 crank, factory reconditioned rods with ARP bolts, .030" Tim Meyer 400 flattops, Comp 268H cam, 2bbl heads with slightly oversized valves, 1.7 roller rockers, and topped with a Edelbrock intake and a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb. havent started it yet but im really getting anxious to.
Posted by 2800R, 07/01/08 06:32pm:
It is great to see "buildups" using the 400, however, I am disappointed in the cylinder head selection. The exhaust flow numbers on the Edelbrock head are nothing to brag about. I don't see the purpose in building a 400+ inch and then putting a Cleveland head on it that is that is not up to the task. There are Cleveland heads available that would be "at home" on that cubic inch displacement but the Edelbrock head is not one of them. Seems like a ton of Torque and HP will be left bottled up somewhere.
Posted by squireboy, 07/02/08 02:07pm:
I really appreciate your attention to detail and procedure. Too many articles assume people know the procedures and just leave them out. Very good job!
Posted by tonygiscwo4, 07/06/08 05:58am:
You guys really do a really good job of putting motors together. I think almost anybody could put a motor together following your articles. Good job!
Posted by fordmonsta, 07/26/08 02:39pm:
yall reckon this will find it's way into project redneck?
Posted by red52steve, 07/20/09 06:39pm:
Great attention to detail! It's almost enough to make me drop a 400 in my mustang instead of the 351W I will be! Thanks again!
Posted by 77Thunderbird, 10/21/09 12:20pm:
Can't wait for part II, very detailed, got me wanting to rip my 351M apart and rebuild it like your 400!
Posted by KC99GT, 08/28/10 01:57am:
what would be the expected hp and tourque for this motor?
Posted by FDRUMM, 05/02/11 03:15pm:
I just purchased a 1967 Fairlane and the seller threw in a 400 engine from a 77 pick-up truck. I wanted to build a big block for it and was happy to find this article as well as a couple from other blogs and the Spring 2008 Hot Rod Magazine Engine issue. There are some variations in the components that were used which i think will help produce a very interesting product. I'm a new member so please keep the great info flowing.
Posted by 1976ford100, 11/18/11 03:28am:
Nice article, I have a 400 that I'm planning for my 76 F-100, good info, and I've read and heard getting the quench right on these motors is critical to avoiding knock on pump gas.
Posted by 72FordGTS, 08/26/13 06:58pm:
Great article, but when is part 2 going to be published if ever? I recently became a paid member and I was disappointed that this article was never finished.


Comp Cams Group

Edelbrock Corporation

Mr. Gasket Company

Probe Industries

Automotive Racing Products


A special thank you for technical support and professional assistance for the production of this article goes out to:

Augie Steinert
Superior Machine
380 Freeport Blvd. #16
Sparks, Nevada 89431
(775) 358-4004



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