Here’s another Quick Tech Tip From the Garage of Tom Zuloaga. If you have ever installed a trunk mounted battery box, or a master cut off switch, you know doubt had to buy battery cables to make the proper connections. This tip will show the best way to make high quality soldered connections on battery or starter cables. You might have to cut a cable you already have or you might be using welding cable that you have bought in bulk.
You can buy different size copper terminal ends at welding supply houses or even home improvement stores such as Lowes or Home Depot. Choose the terminal that best fits the cable you are using.
The next step is to strip off 1/2″ of the cable insulation.
A terminal end in then clamped into a vise.
Next, a 2 1/2″ piece of solder is slipped into the open end of the terminal and heat from a small propane torch is applied to melt the solder in the terminal.
While the solder is still molten, the stripped end of the cable is inserted into the terminal and the torch is removed. Hold the cable in place for a few seconds and the connection will harden.
A piece of heat shrink tubing placed over the connection will keep it weather proof. If you can only find black cable, red heat shrink tubing on the positive (+) cables will help identify them. The small propane torch can be bought at any hardware store and is very inexpensive. It can be used for soldering cable terminals, heating up parts for assembly or sweating a broken water pipe. Good luck.
For more information or questions about this Quick Tech Tip please contact Tom Zuloaga.
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By Aishah. June 4th, 2008 at 12:37 amHi, I really need to know few thing…
By Aishah. June 4th, 2008 at 12:36 amFor Dip Solder Process, what will be the temperature?
and how to define the quality?
Pls email me….
I HAVE A PATENT PENDING ON A COPPER BATTERY CABLE END FOR TOP MOUNT 4 GA. WHICH YOU CAN SOLDER OR CRIMP. I PERFER CRIMP WITH SILCONE DIELECTRIC AND HEAT SHRINK. I USE A HYDROCRIMP ON MY ENDS, BUT ALSO MAY USE LINEMANS PLIERS. CRIMP ON VERY END THEN SKIP SPOT AND CRIMP AGAIN AND TURN PLIERS 180 AND CRIMP IN BETWEEN THE TWO CRIMPS. YOU HAVE THEN INTER LOCKED CONNECTOR WITH WIRING WHICH GIVES AND EXTRA HOLD.
By RUSS THORNTON. July 2nd, 2007 at 6:53 amTHANKS RUSS THORNTON
Wow. I solder all my connections. I guess you used fluxcore solder. I use flux used for copper tubing. most are water based now and are non corrosive. I think if I had a high current draw. I also would silver solder it, instead. don’t take much more heat and you do need to heat the wire for a good connection.
By Ralph. January 31st, 2007 at 9:29 pmIf you guys are that worried, there is always silver solder. I know it’s expensive, but I luckily have a whole roll of the stuff. It does take quite a bit of heat to get it to flow, but it definitely will not melt if you have a high current draw. That is not to say solder won’t either because that is what I use and I have never had a problem doing it that way. I actually have a solder pot so i dip the whole connection in it and after it stops bubbling, I know the cable and terminal are completely bonded together. Plus, it’s fun to watch it go in coppery and come out all soldery!
By blown68. January 25th, 2007 at 4:24 pmCouldn’t you just crimp the connection after soldering? Then, you get the best of both.
By MikeG. January 24th, 2007 at 12:43 pmI really like your articles, Tom. I really liked your write up on notching tubing with a chop saw. As a matter of fact, I believe it would be a great article to contribute to the front page, here. That was some great budget tech!
As far as soldering this type of connection…. I did one this way around 15 years ago for the trunk mounted battery in the mustang. It’s still holding up just fine. The only time I ever got a battery cable hot enough to melt solder, is when I had a direct short. Now THAT melted all the insulation off the cable pretty much instantly!
I -was- worried about a cold joint since the wire wasn’t heated up like the terminal end and solder, but it held just fine. However, I did get the end and solder VERY hot.
Keep em’ coming!
By n2omike. January 23rd, 2007 at 9:49 amWhat about both crimping and soldering? then the solder will keep water out.
By Fredrik. January 23rd, 2007 at 12:46 amGood call, mel…high current creates heat…take and short a wire from positive to negitive and you get a booooooodacious spark (heat). It will melt the connection (solder)…crimp or drill and BOLT….
By schon. January 21st, 2007 at 9:01 amI’ve been doing it the way described for years with no problems. I have used those connections on 18 and 24 volt systems with pretty high current draws. A pressure connection will work except that not very many people have the proper crimping tool to do a cable of that size. I have seen people try to crimp cable ends in a vise, only to have the connection fail at the worst possible moment.
By F15Falcon. January 21st, 2007 at 7:17 amDont think soldering high current cables is a good idea.
By mel. January 21st, 2007 at 6:57 amHaving worked in the electricial contruction with schooling ,we were taught soldering connections was prohibited because high current can easily melt solder through overcurrent events or shorts.
Pressure connections only.
Soldering is for very low amperage devices only.