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Re: Fuel line check valve- draining issue
Ok let me clarify this,
The car is an '86 converted to a mechanical pump system with a carburetor. The entire engine was rebuilt. I don't have any heat risers, crossovers, etc.
Simple carb, intake manifold, heads, headers.
The two fuel lines 5/16 and the 1/4" run parallel to each other continuous from the tank to the T-block. After the T-block it is 3/8" to the in line filter, a Professional products aluminum sintered bronze deal. From the filter it goes into the Carter mechanical pump, driven by the camshaft eccentric. Then out from the pump to 5 feet of rubber line, then to a Jegs pressure gauge, then 6 more inches into the Carter AFB carb. I have a 3/8" banjo fitting on the carb.
When the car is running, it runs great. I get no fuel starvation issues even after a long 1-4 blast. Hot start is better now that I put the plates under the carb.
If the fuel pump has an anti drain back valve, then would it matter if I ran one, two, four, or seven feed lines to a T - block then ran 3/8" into the pump if it doesn't drain back to the tank? I used the old EFI return line also as a feed line to supplement the stock 5/16" original feed line. I think it is an ingenious idea! Instead of having to run one 3/8" or larger line, the two parallel lines run in tandem to feed the fuel pump.
After shutting off the engine, the rubber fuel line between the pump and carb is soft as I can squeeze it together. Someone was also saying that fuel that has been boiled is worth nothing after it does. If it boils in the carb, then sits for a few days, would this fuel even be lighting under compression and spark? Or am I pumping all this through the motor then it fires when I get fresh fuel from somewhere else in the system?
I ran the Carter / Edelbrock carb for the ease of tuning an mileage. I get great mileage, and it runs strong. I just don't like the heat soak issue I seem to be having. It's like I need a hole in the hood just to keep the carb happy.
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