For those of you interested in the results; stay tuned. I am a little disheartened right now so I have not done anything put pull a valve cover. I will get to it, but I hate the idea of the car sitting for an extended period of time without its guts. Money is always an issue with every build and I need to decide how I want to put it back together. The 351 route is appealing but definetely more expensive considering the extra parts needed (pan, rotating assembly, dissy, carb, intake and probably headers are all extra's). Even with the 393 route( use 302 pistons) I still need a lot of parts. The Dart block is expensive but still probably cheaper than the 351 route if you consider I already have all the parts (provided nothing is damaged). The only problem with the dart route is to take advantage of the block it makes since to go big bore and un shroud the valves as much as possible especially with Victor Jr's.

With regard to motor mounts I used stock mounts with a bolt through the rubber and a motor strap with heim fittings.

The tune was definetely right on: race gas (110) in the N2O fuel tank, 100 octane in the gas tank, 28deg total timing on 100 shot which correlates to 5 deg out. race plugs on stage colder that look great, LM1 shows 11.3 on the juice and 12.5 without. Fuel pressure was set at 6.25 on the N20 with a return fuel system so no significant drop in pressures at activation if anything the hit was very light. No detonation now, although I did go through a period with a little specs on plugs, it turned out to be oil from the PVC system and was eliminated with the removal of PVC.

I believe the stock blocks can handle 500 to the wheels for quite a while, but if the tune is off it can crack at 400 HP. The addition of a power adder makes hitting the tune much harder and even more difficult to keep from splitting a block when you are trying to sneak up on the max HP tune. I really think the main contributor to splitting the block, at least in my case was the RPM and the cap walk. If you think about it there is no way any block can live indefinetely with cap walk and all of these 2 bolt blocks are suspect. With the cap walk the crank has to be able to flex a little and that will definetely put additional stress in the weak main web area.

Anyway thanks for the feedback and I will eventually get to the tear down and report back.

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6.75 @102 1/8 mile; 10.566@128.35 1/4 mile