Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott66GTA
Your results with MMO tell you that the oil may be too thick at start up, or it's thinner lubricating properties have gotten in and freed up whatever gunk is causing that lifter plunger to stick, causing the tick... Auto trans fluid in the oil will free up lifters, too... The thin oil can seep into parts better than the thick stuff... Dino oil, like the ones you listed, have a lot of additives that make it behave like 10w-40, or 20w-50.. Synthetics do that much better without all of the additives. They flow better when cold, and keep their viscosity when warm.
After re-reading your original post, It sounds like you may have large clearance issues, (common w/ a cleveland) of perhaps a sticking releif valve in your pump. I would try to get a mechanical oil pressue gage and see exactly what pressure you have throughout the cold to warm cycle, as well as idle to max rpm... You may have a volume issue untill the engine warms up and tightens up the clearances. If that is the case, heavier oilis a must, but i would still look at 5w-50 synthetic. You may also want to use a ZDDP additive to keep your lifters properly lubed, as new oils do not have a lot of it like old oils...
|
I just hooked up a gage cluster with a machincle oil gage and its telling me that the engine running cold is at 72 psi. and when its warm is at 45 psi. Im waiting for a part to come in so my carb rebuild will be complete, then I can see what a max or high RPM oil pressure is . But the oil pressure seems to be very responsive when in park reving the motor.
When you said ZDDR additive is that some kind zink additive? And what brand of synthetic do you preffer or use?
The valvoline vr1 is suposed to have zink in it,do you know much about the vr1 motor oil?( This is the first time Ive ever used it)
