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04-07-2002, 11:40 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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MightyMach
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,524
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Does anyone know what assembly will work for me? GOing from a C6 to the TOP LOADER. I would really like to rebuild it on my own too...(if it is not TOO TOO hard) What will I need to do this? From what I have heard the clutch assembely will be the toughest part (finding one). Thanks for the help!
Jeff Given
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Jeff Given
Sacramento State, Home Town Corona, CA
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MightyMach on 7/24/02 1:15pm ]</font>
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04-08-2002, 12:53 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Hemikiller
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 241
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Jeff:
If your engine is stock, a NEW stock replacement clutch from any parts place will work just fine. Should cost you around a $125 to $150. I don't recommend any Mega-pressure clutch if you're going to drive mostly street, as you will need a larger pant size after a couple weeks, get a Centerforce if your motor is anything but stock, and get the Dual friction unit, it's the best!A flywheel from an early '70's Ford pickup with a 302 will work fine, get the bellhousing, block plate, all bolts, and starter while you're at it. You'll need a clutch fork from a 71-73 Mustang, any non-429 fork will work, they are all the same. They have a C8AA part # I believe.
Give Reed's Classic 4-speeds a call, 203-265-6888, Dave has toploader rebuild kits and parts in stock, and will rebuild it for you for a good price if you get stuck. A far as rebuilding, the Haynes 65-73 Mustang repair manual has the how-to in the transmission section, and is pretty much easy to do. Just take your time, familiarize yourself with the trans before you tear it apart, and take you time....
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04-08-2002, 03:16 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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MightyMach
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,524
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Not stock...Will be driven on the street more than sttrip, will see the strip though.
What parts will I be able find at the wrecking yard? Will these be RARE finds or somewhat common?
Thanks a lot!
Jeff Given
[addsig]
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04-08-2002, 06:30 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Hemikiller
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 241
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
I assume that since you have a C-6, that you have a 351C-4V motor, therefore you should be able to get the bellhousing, flywheel, block plate (important) and other little goodies at any wrecking yard from a early to mid seventies ford truck or van with a 302 or 351W with a manual trans. This will give you the 164 tooth C7TE flywheel that accepts the 11" clutch. It is Hollander interchange # 410, which you can tell the guys at the wrecking yard. It came in 68-76 Ford Truck 302, 66-77 Bronco 289/302, Mustang/Cougar 69-73 351W & C, Torino Montego 70-74 351. A very common flywheel.
Or you could spend alot of $ and get a steel unit from Hays, Sheiffer etc.
Like I said, if it is still in the truck pull it out youself and you can get all the bolts and little hardware you'll need.
You'll have to get a starter for a manual trans, as yours will not work. Trans mount is the same, C-6 crossmember will work.
As far as the rest, the pedals, frame and engine side pivots, pushrods, Z-bar & clutch fork, you could get them from any Mustang or Cougar 71-73, from a 250 6-cyl up to a 351 4V car. All the same stuff. You'll find them on eBay, but you'll PAY over there. Try some of the Mustang wrecking yards in your area, you may find some good deals. If you can't find a pedal assembly with a power brake pedal, you can trim the pedal on the one you have now. As far as the pushrod boot, you'll have to either get one for your car, that means you'll need to remove your steering column, or get one for an earlier car and make it work.
Get the Hurst Competition Plus shifter, no floor trimming required, great shifter.
This sounds alot more complicated than it really is, the hardest part is getting the self locking nuts of the brake booster studs at the firewall. Requires a long extension and a swivel socket.
Since you intend to go to the strip, then get the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch. It'll take you a long time to wear that one out. And no "Clutch-Leg" either.
Let me know if you need any more info.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Hemikiller on 4/9/02 6:33am ]</font>
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04-08-2002, 10:54 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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MightyMach
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,524
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
SWEET! Now this is what I was looking at for the clutch assembly:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...URL=0&rd=1
is that too much? I have a VERY VERY GOOD IN at quite a few wrecking yards, so I am sure that we can get some parts there. (Dads good friend owns about 4, and knows all the others) What do I need to get from him, and what do I need to find on Ebay? I will see this guy April 27, and 28th as me, my dad and him are going to the NASCAR races in Fontana [img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] What about the Top Loader? RARE RARE find or is it common in a wrecking yard? I see Ebay has quite a few. Thanks A LOT!!
I am really gonna do this!!! DAMN I CANT WAIT!!!
Jeff Given
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04-08-2002, 11:53 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Hemikiller
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 241
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Jeff: Read the heading, it says Maverick, not Mustang. But, that is the type of stuff you'll need, the pedals with the pedal support, the pushrods, etc. Make SURE you get the pedal support, as the 71-3 cars had a seperate bore for the clutch pedal, and aluminum mounts for the pedal bushing that are not vailable anywhere else..
Good luck on the boneyard hunting, you may even be able to pick up a toploader. If not, call my friend Dave at Reed's, he sells rebuilt toploaders outright. Get yourself a list of all the parts you'll need, and don't start tearing anything apart 'til you've got everything. A factory shop manual with diagrams wouldn't hurt either.
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04-13-2002, 02:21 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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MightyMach
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,524
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
HemiKiller:
What all will I need for this swap. What is a wrecking yard part? Thanks a lot. I got my brothers involved now.
Thanks a lot!
Jeff Given
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04-13-2002, 08:27 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Hemikiller
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 241
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Jeff:
Here's a breakdown of what you'll need:
Toploader : any model wide ratio, 1 1/16 input, 28 or 31 spine output will work fine, 24" length, Mustang style with shifter at extreme rear of tailhousing. If you get a 28 spline, you'll need a new front yoke for the driveshaft.
Since you have a C-6, you will need a longer driveshaft. You can get one from any Mustang 71-73 with the 9" and an FMX or toploader trans.
Shifter (see above posts)
Clutch/Brake pedal and support assembly.
Pedal to Z-bar (equalizer) rod
Dust boot for above rod: see above posts
Z-bar (equalizer)
Frame side mount w/bolts
Frame side pivot bushing: Repro, any Mustang shop
Engine side mount. This utilizes a replaceable nylon pivot ball, clip, seal: repro any Mustang shop.
Z-bar to clutch fork adj pushrod. Repro or Ford.
Clutch Fork (any 71-73 6cyl, 302 or 351)
Bellhousing. see above posts
Block plate. see above....
Clutch fork dust boot. repro, any Mustang shop
Flywheel: see above posts
Starter: see above posts
Clutch disc/pressure plate assy
Throw out bearing: anywhere
Pilot bearing; get the one for an 80's Mustang GT, as they are roller bearings, and miles ahead in shifting versus a bronze bushing.
Shifter boot etc etc etc
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Hemikiller on 4/13/02 10:44pm ]</font>
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04-13-2002, 09:04 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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n2omike
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,176
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
The easiest way to get the countershaft installed (at least for a toploader) is to make a trip to the local hardware store and purchase a hardwood dowell rod. Simply cut to length, and install the loose bearings with thick grease to hold them in place. Then, as the 'real' shaft is tapped into place, the wooden one slides out the other end. I believe 7/8" is the right diameter for a toploader.
Machining a metal dummy shaft sounds like a PITA.
Just a little 'tidbit' for future reference, and up-and-coming 4-speed rebuilders.
Toploaders can be a pain. The front and rear 'main' bearings require a special tool to remove. I spin the input and output shafts in a large drill press (or lathe) and sand them down with emery cloth to a gentle press fit (upon rebuilding) so they will come apart by hand the next time the transmission needs serviced.
The internal shift linkage and detents can also be a puzzle until you get used to it.
To rebuild a toploader... (from memory)
1. Drop cluster gear
2. remove front and rear bearings
3. remove internal shift linkage
4. remove remove main shaft
5. remove input shaft
6. install new parts on main shaft
7. lay cluster w/dummy shaft in bottom of case
8. install shift levers
9. install main shaft
10. install input
11. Raise cluster and install real shaft (carefully!)
12. install linkage
13. install cover.
This is a VERY abbreviated procedure... Refer to a real manual for all the little details.
Good Luck!
[addsig]
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04-15-2002, 07:17 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Otto
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 330
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1973 Mach 1...I am going to go to a Top Loader. What Clutch assym. will work?
Hey MightyMach,
I just did the four-speed conversion on my ’72 Mach 1 at the end of last year so if you have any questions or if you get stuck, feel free to e-mail me with any questions that you have. I didn’t rebuild my own transmission though so for that one I think it is better to stick with someone whos experienced at that or the guys at 4speedtoploaders.com.
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