starter problem - update - still not fixed!!!!

Well i got a universal shim for the starter and a stud and nut to replace the top bolt that was missing. As you might have guessed from reading the subject, no change in the symptoms. Next i will try replacing the ignition switch, but first i wanted to try and bypass it. If i turn the switch to the 'run' position, and jump between the two leads of the solenoid with say, a jumper cable, will the car crank and start? I know there is a way to crank without using the key, just not sure if that's it. As usual, any other ideas are welcome. I am beginning to suspect electrical issues if not the switch. Maybe its time to try another solenoid . . .

From your earlier post, it sounds like you have more of a starter gear clearance or return problem. Almost sounds as if the starter is "hanging up" on the ring gear untill the bendix retracts.

To test your ignition switch/solinoid to see if something is sticking there, just unplug the coil and give it a quick crank. If it keeps on cranking after you let off the switch then look at the switch/solinoid. If it stops cranking right away then look elswere.

You might have a starter with a weak return spring on the bendix. It might just take that second to disengage from the ring gear. If that is the case, a new starter is in line.

Hope you get it figured out.
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Have you got the proper tooth count starter for your flywheel???

Mine is a 157 tooth flywheel and I think there is a 165 as well...Either mixup will cause problems!!!

Good Luck,
Cobrajack

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Cobrajack on 8/29/02 4:45am ]</font>

When i put a "Late model mini" permanent magnet starter in my coupe with 89 5.0 it did the exact same thing your's is doing. It had to do with the wiring at the selonoid.
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My new vote would be a sticking solenoid since the starter alignment turned out to not help. Try that cranking thing falcon was talking about to see if it sticks without the engine starting. If it does, you have isolated to problem to the solenoid.

If you want to start the car without using the ingition switch (key), your ignition needs to be in the run position and you need to jump a hot wire from the batt + terminal to the small post on the solenoid to simulate cranking the engine without using the ignition switch itself. Once the engine is turning running, remove the hot wire and see if it still sticks. If it does, you have some other problem than the solenoid, likely a bad or weak bendix.

Basically this is a good method to troubleshoot any electrical problem. One component at a time until it is fixed.
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I still say try a starter from an 85-87 302,they have a different throw on the drive and I bet it will work. Nice thing about it is the 85-87 starters are about 1/2 the price of the 92 and up.

Check to see if you are getting voltage at the solenoid activation wire with the key in "run" I had a 302 Ranger that had that problem, starter would not disengage unless you pulled the wire off the solenoid "S" terminal. Turns out it was some bad wiring job by the PO when he installed the Duraspark, and it was backfeeding the ignition switch. Even a couple volts at that wire would be enough to hold the solenoid on.