Dyno results

Had my 69mach1 408W dynoed today here are results low side 3100rpm 215.8, 365.2 9.8 air, 4100 254.0, 325.2 10.2 air, 5200 279.0, 280.7 10.1 air, best run 3100 225.8 380.4 12.4 air, 4100 269.9 343.6 11.7 air, 5900 305.6 269.9 12.1 air,408w sr heads cnc, hy roller 218 228 276 286 536 536 112, stealth 750 HP,1\3\4 hookers, red line 5w\30 syn, timing 36 total, c-4 roller, not bad but i want more, i know i need more intake cam carb, how big can i go for street, like that high torque a@ 3100 though, thinking of Airgap, maybe solid cam 850 carb, am i on the right track.ps 3000 to 3500 stall is high as i will go.

That is a good start, but I think there is a lot more left in that motor. Did you try any tuning? Every motor is different, when I changed my timing from 36 to 41 total I picked up 20 rwhp. That seems like way too much, but my timing marks could be off, the dyno doesn't lie though. Is the carb in good shape? It looks like it was too rich.

How about the plugs, wires, dist., coil? When I removed my K&N airfilter I lost 10 rwhp, just like they claim. How about a windage tray, underdrive pulleys, and an electric fan. It all adds up. I doubt that your intake is hurting you, I would spend more time on all of the little things. The tray, pulleys, and electric fan probably add 20 rwhp.

Our motors are similar except for your extra 102 cubic inches. Your cam is bigger, but in your motor it will act smaller than mine. I am kind of slow, but it took me hours to get every detail right to wring the most hp out of the car. It now makes 285 hp and 307 torque at the rear wheels. With an automatic trans you will lose some hp, but I bet you should see at least 350 to 360.

I now have a bigg's 650 as opposed to the edelbrock 600 that I tested with, so I am going back to the dyno eventually. It feels better, but I could get end up with less, no gain, or a good gain. You never know.

I was just curious/dumb, what is the "9.8 air' and "10.2 air" refering to?? Air to fuel ratio?
If so isn't a 12-13.something considered the range to shoot for? I have no expeiriance with dynos, or the A/F ratio dialing in procedures, I guess it is harder than they make it to appear in print
I am building a 393, and I am using one of the cams chilly recommended, your specs are pretty mild. I think the air gap would be a good move if it fits under your hood.

Thanks guys on all replies, air fuel ratio is the last number, my car was not running real good when they dynoed it, my fuel line was right on the front of block going into the carb, my fuel filter was lying on my water pump, didnt realize it until he pointed it out, so the fuel was getting very hot going into the carb, also my fuel pump wasnt real good standard carter, thats coming off soon, he said it wasnt blowing up fuel at the right pressure, so i have to change a few things, chilly that comp cam is the one i want called them they said it would be great for my stroker,thats the first thing i will do and maybe the Airgap intake, i like that good low end torque @3100 rpm,my car has eletric fan, no pullys just stock, Bigs 750 HP DP, sec jets were off a bit, primarys were good,leaky gasket on the front shooter, msd billet Dist msd wires, all not to bad for wkend driver, car has great midrange, realy pulls at 3000 and up,thinking 3000 stall on my c-4 roller running 3.50 posi 9'' rear 2500stall now 11'' JPT. thanks.

When I first went to the dyno I had everything that I now have. I made 230 rwhp, with carb tuning, timing, changing a plug with a broken insulator, fixing a burned plug wire, changing the gaps, changing the air filter, playing with the timing, water temp(160 to 180) and other small details, I made 55 more rwhp! The thing is that, at the time, I thought everything was right. For me, the idiot that I am, the "devil was in the details" as they say. I went from 103 mph in the quarter to over 109, without really changing any of the combination, just perfecting what I had.

Of course, a bigger cam will make a good 30-50 more hp on your car, but even then, do not ignore the "little things". With a bigger cam you will lose a lot of that awesome low-end torque that you have and you will need to be very careful with piston to valve clearance. Depending on how big you go with the cam, it can totally change the street characteristics of the car. Get underdrive pulleys! you will pick up at least 10 rwhp. That is one of the cheapest hp per dollar deals you can do with your current combination. I would get the underdrive pulleys before I changed the intake, it is easier and the intake probably would not make much, if any, difference.

Dyno time is definitely worth the cost, at least in my case.

please forgive me but i cant read your figures,what hp did you make at 5900rpm?

5900 rpm it made 305.6 rear wheel hp, 1st run made @5200 279.0.

It looks to me like you are simply one cam grind away from making really good power. Since you already have a hydraulic roller cam, simply replace is with a more aggresive one. Look for a cam in the 234 to 244 degree @.050 range with .560 to .600 lift and 110 or 112 lobe seperation angles.

Thanks for replies, the guy who dynoed my car said that he never got out of second gear, my trans is a c-4 roller reverse manual, is that the norm, i would think all gears, have to call him up. cam is getting change, i always wanted that bigger cam, but my engine guy put that small in at the time,thinking comp cam XE274HR or the XE282HR, i dont want to lose that good low end torque, anybody have these cams in there 408W's let me know, i need some Dyno sheets for 408 or 393 windsors, see where i'm at. chilly can you post them sometime ,thanks

put a vic jnr manifold on it and a solid roller cam about 260 @ .050 850dp holley, and hang on,my little 347 made 295rwhp at 5600rpm with a 248 @ .050 solid flat cam