Need advice - 302 rebuild

I recently inherited a 1970 ford mustang with a 302 in it. The car isn't running and i was told the engine would need to be rebuilt and a new carb is needed too (4bbl).

Items in the engine: MSD 6a ignition (w/wires and box), edelbrock performer 289 manifold, old heddman headers. The car looks really nice but doesn't run.

Any ideas on what to do with this? How expensive is it to rebuild an engine? I'm not looking to race the car but i would like to have a nice sunday car that's fast and can turn heads. Any suggestions for a place in Los Angeles? Budget around 2Gs

Unless you are wanting the experience of rebuilding it yourslef, provided you have the tools and place to let it sit for months while you do, I would suggest seeking a short block or a long block from some place such as Jasper Engines, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. Then put your remaining parts on the engine such as intake, carb, headers, etc.

Might be the cheapest and easiest option.

JMO

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How much work are you willing to do yourself?

That's where the $$$ go real fast, paying someone else to do it for you!

I'd reccomend something like an edelbrock RPM package - Heads, Cam, Intake, Carb, with the stock rebuilt bottom end (maybe ARP Rod bolts). If you have the machine work done and assemble it yourself you're probably looking at close to $3000... I'd wait and collect the other $1000 to do it right.

If you are not going to do the work yourself and want to stay with the $2000 limit, you could get your engine rebuilt or buy a long block (stock) for about that much.
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try http://www.larrysperformance.com/ he's got some mild street short or long blocks at reasonable prices. He'll add anything you want to a buildup + he's in so. cal.

You've got a good start. When you choose and engine shop, ask them if they can find a set of pre-74 351W heads to rebuild instead of your stock heads and have them include a 3 angle valve grind in the rebuild. With flat top pistons those heads will give you between 9 and 9.3 to 1 compression. Also, instead of simply re-grinding a stock cam have them install a Crane H-278-2 and matching valve springs. If your car has an automatic trans, you'll also have to find a converter that will stall in the 2800 RPM range and a small transmission cooler as well. Block the heat riser off when you install your manifold, and make sure you have a good low restriction exhaust system and your car will rip. I've seen the above combination make 340 HP on an engine dyno with a 600 CFM carb, which is very good considering the simplicity of the buildup.

Give Speed-O-Motive a call they have an excellent reputation and they can do anything you want.They're located in West Covina. Also, try JMS racing engines in Monrovia I've heard good things about them as well.

Maybe try to get the current engine running? Then you can see how bad it really is, do a compression/leakdown test. I'd save a little more money and do it right the first time. You'll be happy in the end.
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