My engine IS finally coming together!

Well, I got the stuff back from the machine shop on Thursday and gapped the rings that night, layed the crank and hung the pistons Friday, and assembled the rest of the engine all day Saturday. Got it in the car today, bolted up the tranny, finished installing the hydraulic clutch, distributor, and fuel system. Tomorrow I'll just finish the wiring, hook up the starter and cooling system.

I have a few questions though. First, when I primed the engine with my cordless, as I was turning it I checked my oil pressure guage and it read a steady 80 psi. The oil is Castrol 10W-40 and it's a high volume milodon pump. Is that too much or does that sound right? (I'm used to about 10-20 psi, so these numbers are astronomical to me).
Second, how do I get the motor mounts to bolt to the engine? The motor is sitting on the mounts, but on the driver side the mount is about a 1/2" too far forward, and on the passenger side, it's about 3/4" too far to the side (away from the motor). I left the bolts from the mounts to the frame loose so I could move them around a little, but it's not helping a lot.
Third, how do I start the car with no fuel in the carb? The fuel pump I got is mechanical, so I can't just turn it on, should I just crank it for a few seconds until fuel get's to the carb?
Sorry for the long post.[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img]
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You may have the motor mounts on the wrong sides try switching. You can fill the carb bowls through the vent tubes by using a little funnel or a squirt bottle.
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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font size=-1>Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT SIZE=-1><BLOCKQUOTE>
On 2003-08-18 00:19, thecougarguy wrote:
First, when I primed the engine with my cordless, as I was turning it I checked my oil pressure guage and it read a steady 80 psi.
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I don't think you can draw any conclusions based on the numbers with your cordless drill - that's 2500 RPMs or so into an engine that isn't moving . . . just my two cents but I'd think you'd only worry if you weren't getting pressure.

That psi may be resonably representative of what you'll see when the motor fires. I hope you have one of the big moly FRPP pump shafts because at that level there is a chance of twisting the stock shaft. When the motor is warm, it may fall to 60 or less. After break in, you might switch to 5w-30. Also prime the fuel bowls - do NOT crank the engine extensively. It needs to fire ASAP to keep from scraping startup lube off the cam.

As far as the pump driveshaft is concerned, I did buy an ARP shaft. I will try switching the mounts around, though it won't be much fun. I'll be sure to get a small funel to get the gas in the primary bowl.

I also just realized that I forgot to but the block plate in before installing the flywheel and clutch.[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_bicker.gif[/img] Can I get away without it? All it really does is block dust, which isn't that big a deal on a manual car, right? Right?[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_confused.gif[/img]

OHhhhhhhhh man, I did the same thing. Ya, you need it. I would take the time to put it back on... you don't want a rock to find its way in there and do some damage. Sucks bigtime.[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cry.gif[/img]

Oh Man! Gotta hate when that happens. I've put in 2 engines by myself and helped on a couple more and it seems you are not the only one to forget the block plate. lol
Clint

You need the block plate.

About the mounts, a few things to know. There are two different types of mount/frame adapter used on SB 67-70 mustang/cougar and they must match. You may have the wrong mounts or frame adapter(check the #s on the adapters. Also, a lot of guys have had bad experience with aftermarket mounts not fitting properly. Get genuine FORD mounts. Finally, some places will sell you the same mount for either style adapter as they know no better...

- Steve

Why do I need the block plate? Is it just because of rocks? If that's the case, I can just fab up some sheetmetal to cover the exposed part. The block plate I have is the C4 one anyway, and the bottom part of it is open and I've been running it like that for the past year and a half. As far as the starter goes, I put a washer between the starter and the bellhousing to give it the same spacing as if there was a blockplate, and it seems to mesh with the flywheel just fine.

As far as the mounts, they are the Lakewood "Muscle" mounts, and I've used them before. However, last time I installed them I couldn't get them in either, and I just carefully drove the car to a mechanic friend of mine and he threw it up on the lift and had them installed in like 10 minutes. I think it's just me.
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The block plate is primarily a spacer that will give the converter proper freeplay. Washers behind the starter will not hold the starter stable when it's engaged and the ear or ears will break from it not being fully supported 50-60% around it's seating diameter. I never put the dust plate on the bottom but I always use the block plate because of it positively locating the starter along with supporting the starter plus the required freeplay necessary for the converter.
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