It can\'t be this hard!!!

I am working on an 88 T-Bird with the turbo'd 2.3. I am attempting to fix a miss that the motor has. I checked the voltage to the TPS (green wire) and it reads 1.16 volts. I assumed it was bad so I purchased another one. The new one reads exactly the same. I can not get the voltage to drop even if I completely remove the TPS, it continues to read 1.16 volts.

What do I need to do in order to drop the starting voltage on the TPS? Is there another problem further back inline that I'm unaware of?

When I had the codes read, I got a "113" which is the air charge temp. I don't want to move on to it until I get this part figured out though.

Thanks, in advance, for the help!

Have a good day!
[addsig]

That voltage isn't really "that bad". as long as the tps reads from that to 4. something at WOT it should be fine. Your checking that voltage while its running right?

the intake temp charge sensor should be easy to replace, and it should also be real cheap.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: fogged408w on 12/30/03 8:18am ]</font>

Is it a miss or hesitation. A TPS won't give you a miss a hesitation or dead spot yes. If it is a miss start with the basics like the tune-up parts, compression, vacuum leaks, making sure the timing belt is not off a tooth. The air charge(or temp) sensor is not expensive I believe is screws into the intake somewhere. But it also won't give you a miss.

I purchased the car with these syptoms and, like you suggested, I started with the normal tune-up parts (plugs, wires, cap, and rotor). It didn't seem to affect the miss. I also replaced the oxygen sensor due to some codes the came up. It didn't seem to help either. I reset the codes and rechecked them today. 113 is all that came up so I guess I'm gaining on it. The miss is definately getting worse though. I am starting to be concerned about its dependability.

I just ran out there to test the voltage with the car running and it is now where it should be (.99 volts), but, at full throttle, it reads 7.24 volts. I'm going to go drive it around the block and see if the syptoms have changed any.


[addsig]

What about compression on all the cylinders? The TPS and air charge won't give you a miss and possible hesitation yes. Have you pulled all the new plugs to check for a lean or rich condition in any of the cylinders? Could also be a clogged injector.

When I did the tune-up, all four plugs showed signs of running lean. I recently pulled the injectors (in order to put new o-rings in them) and cleaned them up. They looked fine, but I don't know if they were clogged or not.

I have 1 injector that leaks from its body. I don't think it's the cause of the large miss that I'm getting though. It only leaks a little bit. I am going to replace them in a short while.

I have not performed a compression check on the cylinders. I will do that tomorrow.

Another patern that I have noticed...the miss gets more pronounced and more frequent as the temp of the engine increases. That is one of the reason I am hoping that the ACT is the culprit.
_________________
1985 Bronco, 13" lift, 38.5" tires, 13.9 et

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bigbronco on 12/30/03 9:12am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: bigbronco on 12/30/03 9:13am ]</font>

A bad valve seat can do that. I would put a vacuum gauge on it and if the needle is all over the place. Most definatly do a compression check. It sounds more mechanical than electronic. The ACT definatly won't do that. It reads the air temp coming into the intake. It is only a trim sensor. Just unplug it and see if there is a difference while it is running. I would pull it out and clean it look for the "man in the tower" the guys I worked with at Ford would say. They can get a bunch of carbon caked up on them. BUT IT WILL NOT CAUSE A MISS. good luck

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: windsoreight on 12/30/03 9:34am ]</font>

A bad TFI module will be very susceptible to heat as well.

If I put the vacuum gauge on at the distribution block on the firewall, vacuum will be erratic at idle? Or while I'm driving and the miss occurs?

I'm a little overwhelmed with this fuel injection. If my Bronco won't start or run right, there is only a couple of things to check and I understand how everything interacts. With this fuel injection, I don't really know what to do or to check or how to check it if it does need checking. I hate wasting my money and just throwing new parts at it.

What is a good book to read that will explain how all the sensors interact. Whenever I see an article in a magazine, I read it, but they don't normally go into a lot of detail.

I/We will figure this out though!

Thanks
[addsig]

So what scanner are you using??? The '88 models use a two digit code, and 13(I dropped the first digit) isn't even listed in the Ford Emissions Manual for a TC and a 11 is system pass.

Also TC are famed for fuel pump problems at around 100k mi. Usually won't cause a start/idle problem, but I have had one that was the case as it only had 25psi.
[addsig]