Still can\'t rev past 5300rpm

...this is really getting old...

So I have replaced everything on my 351C, and just got a brand new unilite distributor to replace my old one, and my engine still will not rev past 5300rpm in neutral or any gear.

I can't figure out what the deal is. Ignition system is brand new mallory unilite, promaster coil, with Hyfire 6A hooked up, msd plug wires, autolite #24 plug, there is no rev limiter anywhere, and I have redone all the engine wiring from the firewall forward.

Any suggestions would help as to what might be going on here...?

I mean the car really starts moving and then begins to sputter a little bit and just wont rev past 5300rpm...the problem has persisted since before I added the following:

Holley 780cfm
Weiand X-cellerator
Ported Aussie Heads
Crane H-278-2 Cam
Hooker comp headers
Roller rockers
Roller timing chain
110GPH fuel pump

I see you added a different cam. Did you change out the springs and install the proper ones for the cam? Also, what about your fuel lines, what size are they?

_________________
1982 F100 2wd Shortbox. Powered by a 357 Cleveland w/ closed chamber 4v's and a Funnelweb. Full Roller c-6 trans, Gear Vendors Overdrive, and 4.86 geared Detroit Locker equipped 9" rear.
http://www.supermotors.org/registry/...il.php?id=6723

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: f100cleveland on 2/9/05 11:55am ]</font>

Yes, when the heads were rebuilt they were fitted with springs that matched the cam specs card. Fuel line is 5/16, so I might understand if there was a problem in 3rd gear top end say, but in first gear or off idle there should be enough fuel flow to spin past 5300 rpm no?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: kleetuz on 2/9/05 11:57am ]</font>

When assemblying the heads did you check for the correct installed height for the valve springs? They may need shimmed.

I would believe so. The place I took them came recommended by my friend who works at a mustang shop, and has his heads rebuilt for a high power 289 they were making. The guy was working on them said everything was set up according to the cam spec card.

Go back through your firing order and check your lash. Also check your fuel pressure. I had a miss that was driving me crazy and traced it down to 3lbs of fuel pressure.

Along with the electric fuel pump I installed a pressure regulator and gauge, set at 7psi.

I would change the fuel line, probably go with 1/2 inch from the tank to the pump and then from the pump to the carb or regulator. Also, what do you have the timing set at? I had the same thing happen and it was because my tach crapped out and kept the engine from revving. Cut the wires and everything worked fine. Just an idea.

When you say it doesn't rev anymore, do you mean that is just like hits a brick wall and doesn't want to rev any higher? Or, does it start to sputter, pop, bang, etc? Do you know how much preload you are running? I just checked out the cam card for that particular cam and it says that it has a rpm range of 2200-5200 with a redline of 6500. Maybe your head builder set up the springs on the lightest side of the scale and your springs just dont have enough to keep the lifters on the cam. Just a thought?
[addsig]

I guess the fuel line is the first up on the list. Easy enough, just gotta do it...

Timing is set at 12deg initial and 36deg total right now. In by 3000rpm.

ccso640 - What did you mean above when you said the tach kept you from revving? It cut the signal for the ignition? I just have a sunpro tach hooked up right now.

Yeah there are a few pops and sputters but it is pretty much like hitting a wall, it will stay pegged on 5300rpm, and give a pop erratically.

If it is the case that he went on the lighter side of the scale it will really piss me off when I find out!