Driveshaft/ U-Joint strength

ok last question, (one of the last) pertaining to my 9 inch swap. I have the stock drive shaft in there now, 28 spline yoke at the trans, and 1310 U-joints which i replaced with the heavy duty ones. It will need to be shortened to be used with the 9", so I want to know if its worth it to keep this stock drive shaft and have it shortened, or have a new one made up.

basically, will the drive shaft hold up? Looking for low 12's and will be running slicks at the track, but im far from there right now.

I'm starting at the rear and working my way forward, the last thing is the motor.

So what should I do? get a custom drive shaft made? or keep the stock one and just shorten it?

If I do get a custom drive shaft, What U-Joint size should I go with? the pinion yoke I believe is a 1330, but could be a 1350, I have not received it yet, I will have to measure,

basically what am I gonna need that's gonna be reliable and not be busting U-joints. Also, should I opt for a different trans yoke or get a special U-joint and keep the same one,
I'm lost, I have no experience with driveshafts.

If the shaft has the little rubber in the end, get rid of it (it absorbs shock). I ran a 1310/1330 & a Pinto driveshaft for years in a 466/71 Mustang, no problems. I personally would run the 1330's.
[addsig]

I haven't been following your 9" build, but thought I'd mention something from my 9" build-up:

If you use a 'truck' yoke and eliminate the shroud & bumper on top of the differential; you might not have to shorten the driveshaft. The original 1310 'car' yoke on my 9" was 5" long while the 'truck' 1330 yoke I ended up using is 4" long. That turned out to be just right to make the original driveshaft fit without shortening. I've got under-rider traction bars on my car so the shroud & bumper on the 9" rearend aren't needed - which also means there's no longer any need for the longer 'car' yoke.
[addsig]

who did you purchase the truck yoke from? I see 1330 yokes on ebay, but they don't specify whether they are any different from the regular car yokes... once i get the rear end in i will measure and make sure it's all gonna work

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On 2005-04-21 20:16, kewolfe wrote:
I haven't been following your 9" build, but thought I'd mention something from my 9" build-up:

If you use a 'truck' yoke and eliminate the shroud &amp; bumper on top of the differential; you might not have to shorten the driveshaft. The original 1310 'car' yoke on my 9" was 5" long while the 'truck' 1330 yoke I ended up using is 4" long. That turned out to be just right to make the original driveshaft fit without shortening. I've got under-rider traction bars on my car so the shroud &amp; bumper on the 9" rearend aren't needed - which also means there's no longer any need for the longer 'car' yoke.

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I too am interested in a truck yoke--where does one find it?
[addsig]

Randy's sells the short yokes. I paid about $90 for mine, but that was a couple of years ago. I've been beating the crap out of my stock shaft for years. I used the Motorsports u-joint to go between the big 9" yoke and the small drive shaft.
[addsig]

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On 2005-04-22 01:05, mikemustang289 wrote:
who did you purchase the truck yoke from? I see 1330 yokes on ebay, but they don't specify whether they are any different from the regular car yokes... once i get the rear end in i will measure and make sure it's all gonna work
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I did buy mine through eBay from this guy:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=3&amp;rows=50

It was a junkyard salvage part in perfect shape and he had bead-blasted it to clean metal .... but he has nothing listed on eBay right now.

If you go shopping for an aftermarket one like Ckelly suggested, pretty much ALL the ones I've seen on the market are the 'shorter' version. I don't remember ever seeing an aftermarket yoke in the long 'car' length.

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'67 Mustang fastback w/ 5.0efi &amp; T5z; TCP suspension, steering &amp; frame connectors.
2000 Explorer Sport 4x4

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: kewolfe on 4/23/05 12:14pm ]</font>

With my swap in the Galaxie I just had a new shaft made with the 1330 - believe it was $180 5 years ago.No fuss no muss just bolt it in.
[addsig]

well I got my center section today, very very nice, I paid $670 including shipping. I also called moser and the axles complete with retainers, bearings, and studs for $415, so those are on order.

The center section has a different syle pinion yoke, it was a nascar unit, so I'm pretty sure the pinion yoke is longer than stock to accomodate the belt pully used for some type of pump they run, i believe to cool the rear end fluid. So once I get it in I'll measure and probably just get a new drive shaft made and be done with it.

question: does anyone know the side (diameter) of the different size u-joints 1330 vs. 1350, I'm curious to see what the size is on the yoke I have..

Most 1330's are 1 1/16 cap...some are 1 1/8 which is less common. 1350's are 1 3/16 cap diameter. Apart from the width (3 7/32" vs 3 5/8&quot[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]....... 1310 and 1330's are the same. Apart from cup diameter (1 1/16" vs 1 3/16&quot[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img], the 1330 and 1350 are the same.



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RED ONES ARE FASTER

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cmf60 on 4/24/05 5:31pm ]</font>