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On 2005-05-29 21:50, Thordane65 wrote:
Ok... so I installed the derale fan as per their instructions. I originally used the probe style thermo switch, but it was turning the fan on late... I suspect it was because there was not much room for the probe in the rad (the derale fan almost entrierly covers a 65 rad).
Soooooooooo, I ordered another thermo switch... the kind that goes into the intake. I could not get a derale switch (3 week wait) so I instead opted for a PAINLESS switch. I was assured they were compatible...
I then set about hooking up the new switch and relay as per their instructions. Started her up and the fan was not coming on again... so I took out my tester light and began probing wires to make sure there was power. All power is where it is supposed to be.... so I decide to put the tester on the thermo switch itself... and viola! the fan comes on... So basically I am grounding the switch with the tester and it works...
Whats up with that?
HELP!!!!!
Thanks </BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>
Electricity will do funny things that are unexpected.
Did you use teflon tape or sealant on the threads of the new sensor? Perhaps it isn't making a good ground contact with your engine.
The test light will supply ground to the circuit so you would have a completed circuit. So, everything appears to work except your new thermoswitch.
I would say either the new switch is defective or is not compatible. Since both switches turn ground "on" or "off", I would also believe they shoud be compatible.
Do you have an ohm meter? If so you can do a little troubleshooting. First get the car temp warmed up to a know temperature (try a meat thermometer in the radiator) and measure from the top of the new switch to ground. If the meter does not go to zero ohms at its temp, there is a problem with the switch.
If you don't want to use your car as the giunea pig, ry testing the new switch in a controled environment--connect some wires to the ohm meter and drop it into some water on the stove and bring it to a boil. See if it then deflects to 0 ohms. Again, a meat thermometer will give you an idea of the temps.
Thinking back to your original problem, the new switch is almost acting like your old radiator probe. Is there a "brain box" involved or are all your wires going straight to the fan after the relay?
Perhaps you can post a diagram of how you wired your car? That would help alot.
_________________
Dennis
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 5/30/05 6:18pm ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 5/30/05 6:20pm ]</font>
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