Richmond Gears

Anybody have problems with Richmond gears? Installed a Richmond 3.50 ring & pinion set in my 9" Ford axle, set-up per instructions & they are LOUD. Any comments?
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If they whine then don't drive on them, take it back apart and take the 3rd member to an axle shop and have them set up the shims/lash correctly. R&P gears can be very tough to set up perfect... trust me I burned up 4 (yes four) sets, last one was set up by a shop... the first 3 were quiet in the beginning and started howling before I got 1000 miles on them, and I broke them in much easier and longer than necessary. The last shop must've finally got it right because I've finally managed to put a couple thousand miles on them without any noise.
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Richmonds don't have the same contact patch pattern as OEMs I had the hardest time setting up my 4.10s using the factory manual and Richmond gears. A dial indicator is a must. If done right it shouldn't whine.
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I agree with Dirtball, a dial indicator is a must have for setting backlash, as only a couple of thousanths of an inch difference in backlash can really change the gear contact pattern. Also, you can make a fixture to measure the checking depth of the pinion, and get real close if not right on using this method.

Also, if you re-used your pinion nut and crush sleeve, the pinion could be loose now and causing some real racket.

Don't forget lube. I generally put in 3 qts of 85w140. I know the book calls for less, but hey, I'm a rebel.

How thick of a shim pack did you end up using?

Greg

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: GregP on 6/8/05 7:53pm ]</font>

It is a VERY time consuming task to get the gears set up right. It involves a LOT of trial and error in trying to get a really good pattern. Gear setup is tedious work, and involves a lot of patience in doing it correctly.... You don't just set the backlash and go.

Pinion depth using trial and error is the only way to go when trying for a good pattern. Pinion depth gauges don't work right on Ford 8" and 9" rears for some reason.... at least ones that measure from the cap mating surface. They seem to be 0.020" to 0.030" from what is required to get a good pattern. Maybe that surface is not directly in the center of the bearing??? Anyway, measuring pinion depth is only supposed to get the thing in the 'ballpark'. The pattern ALWAYS needs checked to make sure it's right.

I use a beam type in-lb torque wrench to set the bearing preload. A dial type would also work, but I don't think a 'clicker' would work very well. Make sure it reads low figures accurately, as new bearings only require around 25 in-lbs, and used ones go 15.

It takes me forever to get one just right. I'd be a hungry guy if I had to do them for a living... as my hourly wage would be quite low!
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n20mike,

The checking depth does require a measurement of exactly where the parting line was cut into the caps.

Once you have this measurement corrected to "0" (the center of the bearing hole) you can then use the parting faces of the case as a measurement point.

I have had good luck getting to within .010 using this procedure when I have a CD number to start with.

I did not go into the gear patern checking, because if a guy has already set up a rear end he knows to always check the pattern, usually dozens of times onn the same gearset assembly!

Greg
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