Holley won\'t idle, Please Help

Ok, here is what I have. A Holley 750HP main body that has the bottom of the venturis matched to a BG Idle-Eze 850 base plate. The metering blocks are Quick Fuel Technology standard adjustment ones. Everything is brand new. After putting the carb on, the truck doesn't want to idle at all. It will stay running as long as the RPM's are about 2500 but as soon as it tries to go any slower than that, it just dies. It seems very very lazy, I can tap the gas pedal and it takes a second for the engine to come out of the hesitation, studder, sluggishness its in. Its almost acting like it has a huge vacuum leak. I've tried pulling out the air/fuel jets in the main body and after pulling the air jets out, it makes it even more slow to react. I put a 750 carb on there and it ran perfectly fine. I'm not sure what to do or expect anymore. It has me totally baffled. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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[img]/phpBB/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]make sure that all the openings on the base plate are either used or plugged. that is usually the problem.
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Is it that it doesn't like to idle below 2,500 or just won't? If you can only make it run by opening up the throttle plates excessively, it kinda sounds more like a fuel leak than a vacuum leak. Not to insult, but are you sure the basics haven't been overlooked like float height? I'm a pretty devoted overlooker of the simple things first, so that's what comes to me . . .
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Take your carb back apart and make sure the gaskets are all the correct gaskets and are installed correctly, facing the right direction and in good shape. Check your idle transfer slots in the main body and make sure they aren't clogged up with something(like metal filings from the mill work).

Observe your float bowls and metering blocks and make sure you didn't put them on backwards, secondary on the primary side or vice versa or the metering blocks reversed. Make sure that the main body is bolted to the base facing the right direction. Make sure you have the base gasket on facing right.

Get some B12 and blow through all the passages in the carb starting with the idle and high speed bleeds in the main body, do the metering blocks, take the squirters off and spray through those, spray through the idle transfer slots. Just a reminder, make sure and catch the the needles that are down in your squirter passages when you take the squirters off.

Here is a basic question about your carb set up. If you have 4 corner idle metering blocks do you have the correct idle air bleeds installed for these and the correct carb base for 4 corner idles? I think with 4 corner idles you want .036 or .031 idle bleeds all around. With a 2 corner idle if I remember correctly the secondary idles are like .067's or maybe .068's.

I put my carb on a white towel for cleanup so I can see if anything comes out that isn't supposed to be there.

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I found that the problem was the idle mixture holes didn't line up between the baseplate and main body. I drilled holes in the main body and angle the holes a bit to connect to the original holes and it works great now.
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