Strip paint for repainting?? or prep really well and paint over???

**sharpshot71** · 08-02-2006, 02:55 PM

I am going to be painting my 73 mustang. It has old paint, probably original. There are some areas that are gonna need to be stripped, like where the vynel top was, and some patches.

I am not going to get it media blasted, i dont have the money for that so that doesnt even need to be said.

I have a sand blaster, but i have heard that you have to be very careful with that, cause you can cause ripples.

If it would be possible i would like to just paint over, but i dont know if that is a good idea or not. The car is very solid and i dont have a lot of places that will need bondo.

If the general thought is that i should strip it, what is the best way to go about that? I have heard that chemicals work well but are very nasty and you have to be careful with them.

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**Thordane65** · 08-02-2006, 03:09 PM

Get an air disc grinder and grind away... its easy and less caustic than stripper.
You may have to blast some the the tricky areas where the disc wont go... but thats easy.
When you blast, be very careful not to sta in on area too long, or the heat may warp the metal. I blasted mine myself and although brutally messy... came out great.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Thordane65 on 8/3/06 5:09am ]</font>

**thekingofazle** · 08-02-2006, 04:15 PM

Some things have been said about the 3M strip discs being good, I don't think I've used one. (though I may have [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif[/img])

I did my whole car with a D/A and 80 grit paper, down to the factory primer/paint, unless there was a rusty spot or nick in the paint, and there, down to the metal.

**MonsterMach** · 08-02-2006, 06:31 PM

If it's just got the factory paint on it ... no big deal ...

If by chance it has three or four or five coats of "repaints" on it ... well that might be a different story.

You will know for sure once you start sanding [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 8/3/06 8:31am ]</font>

**sharpshot71** · 08-02-2006, 08:09 PM

I am pretty sure its factory paint, its that ugly faded green with some pinstripe decals on it. Where the vynal top was i will need to take it all the way down, but there are a lot of areas i would rather not go all the way down.

I know i would have to get all the decals off, but what do you do to the factory paint to make sure the top coat will stick? anything?
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**sharpshot71** · 08-04-2006, 03:56 PM

So if there is just factory paint, all i have to do is clean it up, get the decals off, and paint over?
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**fairlaneguy** · 08-07-2006, 08:31 AM

If I were you I'd consider striping or grinding where the stipes are otherwise the stripes will show even after painting. I encountered this problem when painting a GoldWing that had been pinstriped. After sanding the stipes off and scuffing the paint they can be seen at certain angles and and lighting .Not a big thing just my two coppers

Duane
the insane Fairlane guy
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**wildosvt01** · 08-07-2006, 02:22 PM

What type of paint are you planning on using? Single or dual stage?
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**thekingofazle** · 08-07-2006, 02:30 PM

I would suggest getting the factory paint good and rough, maybe 80 or 100 grit, (the idea here is to remove ANY oxidized paint, as that will lead to flakes of your new paint coming off)

If there is any doubt of the integrity of the paint (nicks or scratches) go to bare metal, just to be sure you're not going to have your brand new paint pop off.

If you take the paint down to factory paint, and hit it with a good etching primer (for the bare spots) followed by a filler primer, it'll stick down fine, then you can fill out the filler to get rid of any scratches. I am NOT a bodyman, but I'm a garage enthusiast and I think my car turned out pretty well for my first attempt at bodywork and paint. The only problem areas I've had were where I failed to prepare the metal properly, (not doing a good enough job removing some rust) but the rest of the paint has stuck solid.

I would recommend a newer urethane type paint, as its far less brittle than the old acrylic. 2-stage base-clear are nice, but not necessary.

ixtlan can hook you up with ANY information on painting, but I think he's been quite busy with a resto under a tight deadline.

**sharpshot71** · 08-08-2006, 06:24 PM

Thanks for responding. When you say 2 stage, do you mean just a base coat sprayed on, and then the clear coat over the top?
If that is the case is the one stage the stuff where the clear coat rises to the top after being sprayed on? i am very new at this body work but i dont have nearly enough money to get it painted at a shop. I am not going to try to do it all by myself, but i want to do as much as possible. I have heard that dupont paints are very good and i was thinking of going with dupont.

What did you spend painting your car if you dont mind me asking? I have heard in the ball park of $550 or so for materials?
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