302 Rear Oil Seal Leak, Please Help

I built a 347 stroker motor with a supercharger. New crank and everything else. It has a 302 mexican block with a 2 piece rear oil seal. My problem is that I cant stop it from leaking. The seal is install correctly with the seal lips toward the front of motor and seal halfs positioned 1/2 inch away from the slit ends of block and cap with sealer on the ends of seals and on block and cap flat surfaces, it should not leak, but it does and this is the 3rd time I took it apart. the engine runs in at 10lb vacuum almost all the time unless I punch it to the floor. What gets me is that it leaks the first test run.
is there a kit I can get to change over to a 1 piece seal.

A 2 piece seal will seal JUST as good as a 1 pc seal for the first year or so....
You have other issues happening here....

Are you sure it's the rear main seal leaking. I've seen oil leak from the flywheel bolts. Is there thread sealer on bolts??

NO, its not the bolts as I have sealed them.

Are you running a PCV valve to vent internal gases? How about a breather?

Other possible culprits are leaks at the back of the intake manifold (where it meets the block) or a valve cover gaskets leaking. Spreading a little talcum powder on a clean/dry motor can help find these leaks.

Also, if the rings didn't seal properly, you could have excessive ring blowby which will pressurize your crankcase and thus force oil out the rear main seal. The supercharger will only worsen the condition and you may need to increase venting. A leakdown test maybe in order to check ring seal.

Sorry, but there are no kits to change to a 1 pc rear seal.

Hey Tom, do you ever run at Beaver Springs?

Yea I use to run there years a go but then got married and just built cars for the street. I should go up there again, its pretty close to me.
AS per this stupid oil leak, I took it apart again and pulled down the rear main, all looks good, im stumped, well I will put in back in.
No oil is not coming from valve covers or manifold and also checked back of block plugs and cam cap. The only thing I can think of is its a new engine at only about 20 miles on it, I have gapless rings with NO blow-by but maybe there not seated yet with the blower but then again the rear seal is the only oil leak I have, one would think that if I had blow-by there would be others.
Total seal did say that to seat the rings that 3 strong runs down the track would do it. might see you there.

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Bush, you may have the same exact problem. I just replaced ($16) my rear 2 piece seal for the 2nd time too. I think it's leaking from the rear pan gasket though and not the seal, since I had to cut (think they put the wrong rear pan gasket in the kit) my rear pan rubber gasket to fit inside the rear main cap in order for it to fit inside the groove. ( I then put some silicon on the ends and all over). Put a new 7 quart oil pan on with all new oil pan gaskets and it's still is leaking.......just not as bad as before. I did some research and found out that if I go to a Moroso 1 piece gasket set for the oil pan my oil problem is likely to go away. You may have the same problem I have. Does your leave a puddle of about a 1 inch circle overnight??

NO puddle overnight, I dont think its the pan gasket because it wet inside the bell and behind the flexplate.
I cam up with a thought, tell me what you guys think.
When I built the engine and installed the main bearings I noticed that half of the upper oil holes were covered by the bearing, I remembered in a Hot rod magazine that they opened up the holes in the bearings to match the oil holes in the block, so I did this, BUT, do you guys think that opening up the holes,( like in the rear bearing were the seal is ) is flooding the rear seal with oil,,, or is this a long shot and I should go to bed.

When installing the rear main bearing cap, there must be a small amount of silicone under the outside edges of the bearing cap. If not oil can seep through between the block and cap.