Broken Bolt!

Blah.... Stupid intake manifold bolt broke off in the cylinder head.... This sucks. I have tried drilling and using EZ Outs and another different set of extractors but it just doesn't want to move. I'm scared of pushing the extractors harder because I really don't want those to break off in the bolt.

Anyone have any clue out there how to do this?

Everything is just sitting around because I have no clue how to get the stupid bolt out....

Maybe a reverise drill bit... that way if it catches its well turn it out... WD-40 works wonders.

Make absolutely sure you are centered and straight when you are drilling so you don't damage the head. If you've already started a hole and it is off center or crooked then you are kinda screwed. If your hole is centered then just keep using bigger drill bits until there's very little left of the bolt. If you are using left hand drill bits it should come out. A little heat to the head around the bolt with a propane torch might help also.

is it broken off flush? this an aluminum head?

Slide the intake off the head. That will expose the stub of the bolt and you may have enough room to use a bolt extractor. If there is not enough to use an extractor, then put a nut over the broken bolt and weld the two together. Then you can use a socket to remove the broken bolt. The heat makes it come out easier. If it is flush with the head then use a washerand a nut and weld the nut to the stud. The washer keeps it from ruining the head as you weld.

Blah.... I am having to take the head off the block and have the bolt machined out.... Well at least all it's costing me is about $75 and some time....

As an owner of four '65-'66 T-birds who had the factory option of a leaking exhaust manifold on the driver's side, I can tell you that a broken bolt is never any fun. Especially way down next to the fender well.

I also broke four exhaust bolts on an AMC 304 head I was once rebuilding. I never use E-Z Outs because they usually break in the bolts. Penetrating oil is no guarantee either since I have found most just don't penetrate to get at the rust. Try spraying some on a flat surface and see if it evaporates. If it does it cannot penetrate. So on the AMC head, I just driled out the bolt as suggested usigng progrssively larger bits until I got most of the metal out. Then I ran the correct tap in there and I was back in business. Now AMC was known for a higher nickel content in their castings so that might expailn why this procedure worked so well.

Reverse drill bits are a must and I have a complete set and many times that is all you need.

Later!
Mr. Ed

Try Kroil for a penetrating oil.

KanoLabs.com

The other tips are pretty much gospel.... I've used them all.
If you're ever really "screwed," find a machine shop with a metal
disintegrator. That'll pretty much remove any stuck bolt, but
not the easiest service to find......

So what do yall think about this idea? I figure its worth a shot since my machine shop doesn't open till Monday....

Since the hole drilled into the bolt is alreay drilled off center and therefore EZ Outs don't work and I can't proceed to drill anymore, what do yall think about filling the hole with an epoxy and trying the drilling again? I realize that the bond would have to be pretty strong between the epoxy and the bolt for the drilling to work, but isn't it still worth a shot?

Proper way would be to have your machine shop drill out the hole to the correct center and install a heli-coil.