A few Q's for all you guys running 351C strokers.

Ok I've done the search thing, pondered through all the numerous site offering stroker kits and I still have a few Q's. I'm looking for a 393 or 408 kit preferably with a forged crank(for the future). What are some of the brands of kits you guys have used? What kind of balancing had to be done? What'd the balancing cost? What about block clearancing? Any special spacers for the balancer? Customer service quality of vendor? Quality of the individual parts and pieces? I've heard about the bad scale on some of the CAT cranks and am very leary of them.


This will be going into my 80 LX and will be a daily toy. It will be turbo'd in the near future. Also would a cast aftermarket crank stand up to more power than the block will? Is the forged crank a waste? Over 700+ rwhp is a certainty.


Anything else that you guys can think of would be greatly appreciated.

Iam just getting started with my 1st C and from what ive seen speedomotive is about the only one that makes a stroker kit. On their site you can add the cost of the balancing to the cost of then kit also more options too. The cheapest kit they have is the 393kit.

bad im sur youve seen my post on speedo motive,im sur you''ll find the same issues with either scat/eagle or any other chana brand,crank/rods.speedo motive pushes there own china forgings (rpm) and grind in house,they took a windsor crank and wittled down the mains to the cleavland mains on a dart 427 short block i had biult,and counter weight to piston issues like you wouldnt believe.when i asked them to rectify the concern the politly told me to insert my index finger into my rectum.you might have to run a cleavland mained windsor crank with a spacer on the timing chain area.( i think ?)

I have a Scat forged crank And H-beam rods with 408 cubes in my Cleveland.
It is a bolt in deal, with no clearancing required to the block etc.

Will the block hold upto that power is the question.
I would be trying to get the aftermarket block that will be coming out shortly, or an aftermarket windsor block.

Originally Posted by torino501

you might have to run a cleavland mained windsor crank with a spacer on the timing chain area.( i think ?)

They are ALL like that - there are no 351C specific cranks. That's normal and FRPP sells a spacer. Unless you get some high end USA forged item built to order.

Cast crank+700RWHP (about 800~850 crank HP)+stock 351C block = grenade

Stock Ford blocks are good to about 550 HP, then stuff starts to happen.

Yea Torino I read your threads and am def not looking at Speed O's junk.

Kelly I was pretty ceratin of the block-grenade issue. Do you think a forged crank would make a bit of difference? I don't see a C specific block coming out in my lifetime so I would be relegated to a 9.2" motorsport block or Dart piece.



XD did you have to use a crank spacer? How much balancing did it require?

I use a 408 Scat forged crank and Scat 6" H-beams with Ross pistons. It's a drop in deal. No clearance problems on the block or the pistons.
I bought my kit through MME. Very price competitive. It balanced easily.

Everyone that I've talked to who used an Eagle crank had to have the counterweights cut down to work with 6" rods. Eagle sells you a crank that starts out as a Windsor crank with counterweights for 6.125 rods. You have to get them cut down for the cleveland combo.

Scat also uses a small journal Windsor crank but the counterweights are smaller and it drops into a cleveland block with no extra machining. You do need a balancer spacer for the crank snout, but it's no big deal.

Originally Posted by 1 Bad 88 GT

XD did you have to use a crank spacer? How much balancing did it require?

I just used the Rollmaster set designed for the Scat stroker on Cleveland motors, so no spacers etc.(P/number: CS3120)


I didn't use the std set with the spacer, as the Scat stroker cranks are a bit smaller at the snout and the Clevo timing set is slightly loose on the snout.

Balance cost $180 (is aussie) and was strait forward i was told. They also use a Romac balancer and drill it to remove some weight and go from there. I dont know much about it, but it was cheap to balance.

AC: did you have MME balance the assembly or did your local shop do it? If you don't mind how much was it and what'd the balancing cost?


XD thanks for the info bout the timing set.