Newbie here

Very true words

I think a pic of the top end would be very very helpfull....

Your problem is that you have a rusted crank, cam, lifters, and bores. You might have prevented it by using something to turn the oil pump drive shaft to push the water out of the bearings but it might not have made any difference. What you need to do is begin with a complete tear down inspection. Use micrometers and feeler gauges to check clearances and look closely at bearings and the journals they ride in.
At the very least you need to remove the heads and pan to visually inspect the bores and bearings. If there is any rust on the crank or rod journals then you need to finish tearing it completely down.

Ok, I will....

PS....I actually WOULD read a playboy......
...

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....cause I'm a girl...

I don't think that you are going to find any help for your engine in any playboy.
I am anxious to hear what you find.

I looked at the top end and realized I have flat "cylinder" things that the cam shaft moves that the push rods sit in. The Rockers have a fulcrum that sits down in them and a bolt that goes through the middle. There is no rust on any portion of the cam or rods or rockers. The rockers are separate, each bolted to the engine individually. There are washer type things on the fulcrum that sits in the rocker, but they bolt down and I don't see how they would adjust at all. I was able to hook the starter back up to the battery and it all turned freely and smoothly.

I believe the problem was the oil thickened as it mixed with the water (milky oil), and made the round cylinder things (that the push rods sit on/in) move less freely because the oil was less slick. (does that make sense?) After letting it sit all winter, the oil drained out and released them enough that I could hand crank it slightly, then as I added more fresh oil on top of them, they moved free-er and free-er until it was quite smooth again.

also...I only removed the rockers on one side, before I decided they were fine. and I didn't need to tear into the whole thing since it was moving manually.



PS.......Playboy tells me if I get it shiny and looking new and put it in a hood-less classic car in a field in springtime, .....naked 19 yr old chicks (who like to read poetry and go snowboarding and feed the homeless) will come want to lay/sit on it.

I'll post a picture tomorrow...


...of the engine, NOT the playboy...lol

LOL on the chicks....

sounds like you have just regular bolt down rockers (non adjustable). The round cylinder things the push rods sit in are called "lifters".
Turning the motor with the starter most likely oiled up the barens by turning the oil pump. You did have oil in it right?..
tim

OH
the oil wouldn't have thickened with water as water and oil don't mix.. but the water would have cut down on the slickness the oil would have provided..
Tim

Yes I had put some oil back into it, and also directly added it to the lifters/cam. Since it turns freely now and no evidence of rust near the cams/cylinders as I had imagined, I want to make sure the rocker/spring gap is correct. I'll post pics later today.

If you get it restarted after it ran for a little bit I would change the oil again just to be sure all the water is out..
Tim

I will, I am also planning on flushing the engine with "engine flush" just to be sure.

Should I be trying to start it before setting the gaps right on the bolts though? when starting it should I completely reassemble it with gaskets and all? or should I leave the gaskets off until everything is adjusted?