Newbie here

I need some plain simple english translation of shop talk...lol

I have a Ford 460 (1975) engine in my jet boat...(well, out of the boat for now)

Some water got sucked in due to an exhaust leak las summer I shut it down and trailered it. Within a day,I drained the milky oil and tried to hand crank it after changing the oil and sprying WD40 in the spark plug holes...it turned slowly at first but then got stuck. So I let it sit through the winter in my garage. Now I have the Intake Manifold off and cleaned (little bits of rust) and removed the roller rockers and push rods to clean them. Then I put them back on (no particular order). With some effort I can turn the cam manually, but I see that some rockers are wobbly and asked at my parts store what that was about. I was told I had Hydraulic (something-or-others???) and they'd need to be spaced, not just tightened back down. ( i never removed the valves/springs only the rockers and rods)

How do I find specs to tell me what spacing they need to be at (I have a feeler gauge)?

Does it have to do with how tight the bolts are in the rockers? or do I just tighten them down snug?

I'm seeing that I may have to have the cam and pushrods in a certain position before making that adjustment/measurement. What position exactly and how do I determine it's in position?

How do I know what type of Cam I have? (based on what I've found, I gather I'll need that info)

Should the numbers on the roller rockers match any numbers on or around the springs? (I believe this engine was rebuilt a few years ago, I bought boat from a mechanic, so I doubt I'm looking at OEM parts/specs)

Is there a tech video out there somewhere, of this re-assembly being done that I can watch?

I think the technical term for what I'm asking about is "valve lash" is this correct?

With hydraulic roller lifters they have to have oil in them before you can adjust them - or you collapse them and they are loose.
You need to have the lifters sitting on the heel of the cam lobe to adjust them.(if they are adjustable)

Not meaning to offend you but if I were you I would get some help locally.

Since it has roller rockers it likely has other expensive high performance parts in it. If there is rust in it, it likely has rust on the camshaft lobes, cylinder walls etc. If you run it with the rust\debris in it you risk ruining the whole motor.

If I were you I would take it to a reputable local engine builder and have them take a look. Spend a couple bucks now to save hundreds later.

If you want to learn how to do it yourself then research as much as you can and find someone that will kind of "oversee" what you're doing. Mistakes are expensive.

Trust me, when it comes to boating, it's no fun towing your boat to the lake just to look at it on the trailer while all the Chebby boys are out on the water with the chicks. Make sure you're race ready when you unload.

Nobody has said it yet so I will....

When you pulled the plugs and shot WD into the holes... Did you turn over the motor with the plugs OUT or did you put them back in first...?

If you let it sit through the winter with water in a cyl you need to go through the entire engine I think...

The Rusty stuff is the First clue.

There should be NO rust in that motor...

The very next day, we did turn it over with the spark plugs out and blew all the water out of the holes (it was the first thing we did).

Then we pulled the engine out of the boat and changed the oil...after that we sprayed WD40 and put the plugs back, tried starting it (out of the boat) and it wouldn't start, was slow to turn. Tried manually turning after filling spark plug holes with WD40 and letting it soak down, turned a bit stiff slightly. Then used "Marvelous Magic Miracle" oil additive stuff in the same holes, let it sit for a bit then tried turning again manually....it just kept getting harder to turn until finally it wouldn't hand turn at all. I filled the spark plug holes with WD40, put the plugs in loose, and let it sit in my garage from September-May (this past week)

There is a light dusting of a hint of rust on the intake holes (the big ones on the head) but no major "rust spots" that I can see. (I thoroughly cleaned the intake manifold already) From this point, I want to put it back together, it hand cranks freely now, more or less. I am figuring on selling the boat this summer anyway. I'm in a small town with no serious local mechanic shops nearby. (we have a few tire places)

What, step by step do I need to do (from here) to make sure the spacing is correct?

And what should the rocker spacing be set to once it's pumped full of oil and in position?

Since I'm not using any new parts (like the rockers and springs), shouldn't I just tighten the bolts till it's firm?

No you shouldn't.

I need you to go through your memory and ask why in the hell the engine would eventually NOT turn over?

That's a BIG issue...

Get us a picture of the top end of that motor. Show us your rocker and pushrod setup.

Post the picture here so we can better assist you.

Much easier with pitcures...Ever try reading a playboy? (didn't think so...)



FE

FE your a funny guy

Now are these full roller rockers or just roller tip rockers... is there one shaft hooking all the rockers together or are they each on there own stud, are they bolt downs or are there adjustable nuts on them?
Now I don't know boats but...
I cant see water getting into the pan and oil throu an exhaust leak?? sounds more like a head gasket don't it??
"""Within a day,I drained the milky oil""""

tim

Marine exhaust manifolds are water cooled. If the surrounding water area leaks into the inner exhaust passage then the water can enter the engine thru the exhaust valve when the engine is shut off.

could the motor not turning over/turning over hard because of hyrdolock? He filled the cylinders with wd-40, did you let that out somehow?

Originally Posted by Aspen

The very next day, we did turn it over with the spark plugs out and blew all the water out of the holes (it was the first thing we did).

Then we pulled the engine out of the boat and changed the oil...after that we sprayed WD40 and put the plugs back, tried starting it (out of the boat) and it wouldn't start, was slow to turn. Tried manually turning after filling spark plug holes with WD40 and letting it soak down, turned a bit stiff slightly. Then used "Marvelous Magic Miracle" oil additive stuff in the same holes, let it sit for a bit then tried turning again manually....it just kept getting harder to turn until finally it wouldn't hand turn at all. I filled the spark plug holes with WD40, put the plugs in loose, and let it sit in my garage from September-May (this past week)

There is a light dusting of a hint of rust on the intake holes (the big ones on the head) but no major "rust spots" that I can see. (I thoroughly cleaned the intake manifold already) From this point, I want to put it back together, it hand cranks freely now, more or less. I am figuring on selling the boat this summer anyway. I'm in a small town with no serious local mechanic shops nearby. (we have a few tire places)

What, step by step do I need to do (from here) to make sure the spacing is correct?

And what should the rocker spacing be set to once it's pumped full of oil and in position?

Since I'm not using any new parts (like the rockers and springs), shouldn't I just tighten the bolts till it's firm?

the problem with wd40 is that once it evaporates ( and it will), the squeak comes back worse. that stuff is not recommended for winter storage rust protection. take it apart or have a shop do it for a couple hundred and get a pro diagnosis. spend a couple hundred now or thousands later.

oh yeah-boats have forged rotators so when dealing with an unknown shop it is wise to document (covertly) your part numbers or make a witness mark(centerpunch the crankflange) so that you get the strong stuff back-better safe than getting hosed.