rusty cylinder walls?

Originally Posted by mustang42782

take that thing back its bad! That isnt from a head gasket any way. That thing sat in the rain the whole engine is full of rust.

there was milky crap in the pan, and the engine wasn't open...it's from a blown HG
I also noticed a bent pushrod...
I got the pistons and crank out finally. gonna see if I can use the honing stones to get the remaining crap off the walls

the stones made the walls smoother, but theres still a little bit of roughness. it seems (in my ignorant view) it should be able to be taken care of with an overbore. I checked with a micrometer and the bore are the stock 4". I'll take the block and crank to the shop probably monday to get bored n turned.

anyone have a ballpark on how much machine work will be? I'm getting the block bored n honed, crank main and rod journals turned probably .010 over, cam bearings and freeze plugs replaced. oh and I want to hot tank the block as well. also, how much does milling the block usually run? to get the head mating surface flat, as well as bump up CR a tiny bit. if I get a new set of pistons, does the rotating assembly have to be balanced? can I replace the pistons with the nasty paperweights that are currently on the rods, or should I get the shop to do it? should I get the rod bolts replaced with ARP bolts, as I've seen done before?

Machine work varies from one part of the country to another and even from one shop to another. Make some phone calls to local automotive machine shops and get prices in your area. Most auto parts houses either have or will recommend a machine shop.

i know it varies...thats why i asked for a ballpark number. $100? $1,000? $10,000? i just wanted an idea of what i should be spending. and nobody will be open til monday anyways

Boring generally costs $20 per hole, or $160 'ish for a V-8.

Crank turning is a bitch because most times they just want to sell you a crank kit for $400 on up! $668 bucks for my Cadillac 390 crank kit and $625 for an Olds 350 crank...

Ford 302 probably a couple hundred for sure...

$100 - $200
but before you have it completed you need to buy pistons. If you have a stock bore and you think .020" overbore will fix it you can either buy pistons or wait until the machinist tells you how far he is going to have to go - then buy pistons so it can be finish honed to the pistons.

Originally Posted by zpyro

i know it varies...thats why i asked for a ballpark number. $100? $1,000? $10,000? i just wanted an idea of what i should be spending. and nobody will be open til monday anyways

A high quality rebuild is about $2500-3500.

Tear down and mic everything, hot tank degrease, bore 20-30 over with plates on, line bore the main bearing saddles, turn crank down 10-10, refurbish the rods, balance to +/- 1 gram (bring the flex plate, harmonic balancer and crank pully + bolts), cut the deck down flat and square (REAL important if HG blew as they don't normally blow unless there is a problem and overheated warping is usually #1 suspect!), cut the heads down flat, new guides, seals, 3 angle grind, new springs and other top end goodies, new pistons, rings, bearings, timing set, rod bolts, head bolts (or better yet studs), oil pump, water pump, gasket set. It adds up quick. And all that is with YOU doing the assembly!

Of course you can hone it out sort of clean, fit 10 over rings on the std pistons, put a washer behind the oil pump spring, button it up and hope it holds together everytime you rip over 4500 rpms...

I'd rather spend money once and be done with it resulting in a reliable engine that can be trusted!

jb

I am finishing up a Super High Quality restoration on a 1968 Olds 350 engine, and it ran the owner a total of $4,100 that's including the Upgrade to 4V and Hedders adn Dual Exhaust.

You should be able to get a 302 fully rebuilt for less than $1,800 for everything. If you do all the assembly.

Originally Posted by john_bud

A high quality rebuild is about $2500-3500.

Tear down and mic everything, hot tank degrease, bore 20-30 over with plates on, line bore the main bearing saddles, turn crank down 10-10, refurbish the rods, balance to +/- 1 gram (bring the flex plate, harmonic balancer and crank pully + bolts), cut the deck down flat and square (REAL important if HG blew as they don't normally blow unless there is a problem and overheated warping is usually #1 suspect!), cut the heads down flat, new guides, seals, 3 angle grind, new springs and other top end goodies, new pistons, rings, bearings, timing set, rod bolts, head bolts (or better yet studs), oil pump, water pump, gasket set. It adds up quick. And all that is with YOU doing the assembly!

jb

If your paying that much for the listed items you need to go file a police report cuz you got RAPED!


I had one done at BES and it was only about half that much!

Originally Posted by john_bud

A high quality rebuild is about $2500-3500.

Tear down and mic everything, hot tank degrease, bore 20-30 over with plates on, line bore the main bearing saddles, turn crank down 10-10, refurbish the rods, balance to +/- 1 gram (bring the flex plate, harmonic balancer and crank pully + bolts), cut the deck down flat and square (REAL important if HG blew as they don't normally blow unless there is a problem and overheated warping is usually #1 suspect!), cut the heads down flat, new guides, seals, 3 angle grind, new springs and other top end goodies, new pistons, rings, bearings, timing set, rod bolts, head bolts (or better yet studs), oil pump, water pump, gasket set. It adds up quick. And all that is with YOU doing the assembly!

Of course you can hone it out sort of clean, fit 10 over rings on the std pistons, put a washer behind the oil pump spring, button it up and hope it holds together everytime you rip over 4500 rpms...

I'd rather spend money once and be done with it resulting in a reliable engine that can be trusted!

jb

A rebuild kit with new pistons, bearings etc. is about $330 from summit. I don't need an above and beyond job done on the motor, it's not going into a racecar and isn't going to be making a whole ton of power. It's more of a standard rebuild than a hi-po rebuild.
Somethin along the lines of http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/08/efimotor/