Nothing but clicking when starting...

Originally Posted by Blulakr

If the fender relay clicks, the clutch safety switch is good. A new starter isn't necessarily a good one. Try having a friend hold the key in the start position with the clutch in while you tap on the starter with a light hammer or a wrench. If it then starts your starter is definately bad.

Better yet, spend a couple bucks and get yourself a 12v test light. Most electrical problems can be diagnosed with this $3 tool. With the clutch in and the key in the crank position you should have power to both the big and small wires at the starter.

There is only one wire at the starter and that that goes up to the relay on the fender. What other wire is there on the starter....I only have the one

Sorry, my mistake. You are correct. You only have the large diameter wire at the starter.

The test light theory still applies though. Connect the alligator clip from the test light to the neg battery cable. Have someone turn the key and touch the pointed tip of the light to the cable connection on the starter.

If the light illuminates, the starter is bad. If the light does not illuminate, test the circuit at different places to see where you're losing power.

NOt necessarily... If there is 4 or 5 volts going to the starter it will not start... BUt it will still light the light.

Do the crank position Whack the starter with a hammer trick

If it works then get "another" new starter.

You have one of three problems.
1. the new solenoid is no good
2. you have a poor connection somewhere between the solenoid and the starter.
3. your new starter is bad.

To make each of the following checks you have to turn the key to the "START" position for each test.
With a volt meter you can find out wher the problem is. Put the red lead form the volt meter on the battery side of the solenoid and the black lead on the starter side of the solenoid. Try to start the car. if you have more than 0.5 volts reading on the voltmeter your solenoid is bad. Replace it. If it is less than 0.5 volts then move the red lead of the meter to the starter side of the solenoid and the black lead to the starter terminal on the starter. (one lead on each side of the starter cable) If you have more than 0.5 volts the wire is bad. Replace it. If it is less than 0.5 volts then move your red lead to the starter terminal on the starter and the black lead to the engine block where you can get a good connection. If the voltmeter reads more than 0.5 volts then your starter is bad. If it reads less than 0.5 volts then put the red lead on the engine block and the black lead on the car frame or body somewhere there is a good connection. If it reads more than 0.5 volts then you need a ground strap. Install one - a BIG one from the engine to the frame. If it is less than 0.5 volts then put the red lead on the frame and the black lead on the negative battery cable (not the post) If the meter reads more than 0.5 volts then the battery negative cable is bad. Replace it. If it reads less than 0.5 volts then move the red lead to the negative battery cable clamp and the black lead to the battery negative post. If the voltage is more than 0.5 volts then the cable clamp is bad. replace the negaive battery cable - do not try to install a new clamp or use a clamp on battery terminal. If it is less than 0.5 volts then check the volts from the positive terminal to the negative terminal. If you have more than 9.5 volts then you have missed something and you need to go over it again. If the voltage is less than 9.5 volts then you either need to charge the battery or replace it.

It took longer to read this (and type it) than it does to do it. You can be sure of the results without replacing anything before you know what is wrong.

That's perfect Paul

Those test lights are barely ok in a pinch when doing things like lights but I think a $30 multimeter is well worth the investment. As in Pauls post, there are tons of ways to use them for diagnostics. The little cheap ones are debatable but the type with the didital readout are invaluable.

Oxidation is your issue. (period)

Installing new terminal ends was not a good Idea, and is the heart of your issue. If the wire had any coating, or oxidation on it, it will not make good contact.

Same reason why using a terminal brush is needed on the battery posts.

Get new battery wires. Then clean the new battery terminals before installation.

In your case, putting new wire ends on the battery cables worked but it only made a low current contact. Enough contact to run accessories up to 20 - 30 amps, but not enough to run a starter at 100 + amps.

The insides of even brand new terminal connectors need to be cleared of oxidation on the inside, and the wires cleared of oxidation on the outside..

Like trying to solder two copper water pipes together without using the scratching brush. The solder will not take hold till you break the surface oxidation.

When you say the key has to be in the "START" position, do you mean all the way before the cranking position or do you mean have someone try and start the car as I'm making these tests?

Have someone try to start the car as your making these tests. Have them just hold the key all the way forward while your testing.

Originally Posted by 60smuscle

Those test lights are barely ok in a pinch when doing things like lights but I think a $30 multimeter is well worth the investment. As in Pauls post, there are tons of ways to use them for diagnostics. The little cheap ones are debatable but the type with the didital readout are invaluable.

You can do a lot more with a test light than you think.

Voltage drops are the best way to test but not everyone understands how.

Mikes66 has good advise. I've seen starters condemned when the root cause was a battery cable corroded inside the insulation where you can't see it.