pulling rotating assembly

Anyway possible to pull everything out from the bottom, i really dont want to pull the engine and have to get all new gaskets.

I don't much think you well get the pistons and the rings back in from the bottom... but you could pull the heads (leaving the motor in the truck/car) and install the pistons from the top and the crank from the bottom...
Tim

I think it's a really bad idea not to pull the engine. You'll still have to replace the gaskets but they will be harder to place. Installing the pistons from the top without help would be a very bad idea.

I can't think of any gaskets you won't have to replace when you're done, and none you shouldn't replace.

Pull the engine, take your time and do the job right the first time. You'll be glad you did.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by electrowoman

I think it's a really bad idea not to pull the engine. You'll still have to replace the gaskets but they will be harder to place. Installing the pistons from the top without help would be a very bad idea.

I can't think of any gaskets you won't have to replace when you're done, and none you shouldn't replace.

Pull the engine, take your time and do the job right the first time. You'll be glad you did.

Good luck.

Thats why I dont want to pull the engine, the motor was just freshly rebuilt, so I want to replace as few gaskets as neccesary, i'm just swaping out my forged pistons in for the bottle.

Bad idea.

The main cap supports are in the way. There is no room to remove all the piston/rod assemblys through the bottom. If it could be done (it can't), you would need some way to compress the rings for a reinstall with the new pistons. The bottom of the bore is not final machined for this type of operation.



Dropping the crank would be necessary and that would require removing the oil pan, timing cover, all main caps, and the transmission (amongst other things.) It is possible to drop the crank, but I'd rather wrestle with a big octopus than aligning all the rods back on the journals while suspending the crank above my head just to get the main cap bolts started.

Other thoughts: Pistons may have a different deck height than the ones that are being swapped and so that needs to be checked.

When swapping pistons for performance use you need to have the crank assembly re-balanced. That bottle won't be kind to an unbalanced motor.

Do yourself a favor and pull the motor and do it right. The amount of aggravation (and failure) from attempting to do it the hard way will far exceed the $100 in gaskets that you will replace when doing it right.

Yep, with new, heavier forged pistons you'll need to rebalance the crank and don't be surprised if the cylinders need honed a little larger (.001"-.002") for the forged pistons. You have to take it apart and do it right.