Brake nightmare - help please!

I've been trying to sort this out for some time now, and have posted previously on the issue. This is in a 1965 Galaxie, front disk conversion with rear drums. Manual brakes, dual reservoir master cylinder. I cannot get any pedal pressure to the fronts. At this point, you can feel no pressure until the pedal collapses the first plunger spring for the front brakes, at which point there is a bit of firm travel sufficient to lock up the rears. Nothing at the fronts. There are no leaks in the system, and no air. This has been checked now 50 times at every fitting for the last 4 months. Everything (every single part except the brake pedal) is new (master cyliner lines, T block, rubber hoses, calipers). The master cylinder has been replaced three times now, and I'm certain it's not leaking. I get fluid at the bleeders flowing just fine, with no air. However, their is no pressure at all, and the front rotors can easily be turned by hand with the pedal down. Is there something wrong with the size of the lines (3/16")? If the calipers were somehow frozen, it would be odd for both to be, and you would still get pedal pressure I assume, right? What is going on here? Thanks!

3/16 is correct unless that's the INSIDE diameter

Are you getting ANYTHING out of the Front bleeder when you push the brake pedal at all?

If you are then ther is fluid going to them. If you do NOT get pressure and the AIR is gone from the system, then you MUST replace that bad Master Cylinder.

I will assume right away that your front lines and rear lines are totally separate, right?

Did you put a proportioning valve in when you did the brake swap if not I would be that would be a big reason for some of the problems you are facing. Also you said manual brakes, I dont know if there is a difference between pedals for manual and power brakes, also same with master cylinder.

What car did you get these brakes off of.

Yes - getting lots of fluid from the front bleeders (without air), just cant get any pedal pressure or any force at the rotors.

Yes - Lines are totally separate.

Yes - there is a manual prop valve going to the rears. I have adjusted it fully in, fully out and in the middle, rebleeding each time, with no difference in the fronts (it does alter the point in the pedal travel at which the rears will actuate).

Master cylinder is '71 torino with manual front drums. I also tried one from a T-bird of the same vintage and a '69 or so mustang. I have made sure I have complete rod travel at the pedal before it hits the floor, no issues there. Note that these were bench bled each time before being connected.

The calipers and other conversion parts are part of one of the prepackaged conversion kits you get. I'm not sure but I think the calipers are actually from a GM product, and there are mounting adapter plates.

Are any of the steel brake lines smashed or kinked??

Bad MC, just because it is new doesnt mean its any good

I would pull the calipers and make sure that the pistons can move should be able to get them to move with your hand.

Also I don't know about using a drum brake master on a disk car I don't know the differences anyways thats all I got for right now.

When you say you are getting fluid to all wheel cylinders, are you meaning with gravity flow or Mighty Vac or do you get fluid from the bleeders by pedal pressure? The reason I ask is that I have had to use a pressure bleeder on a few cars in the past because no amount of 'pumping the pedal' would pressure the lines enough to force out the air pockets. Have you loosened the lines right at the master cylinder to see if you are getting any pressure there by using the pedal? I think it would be possible to have an air bubble at a high spot that would let fluid pass slowly without pushing the air bubble out. I guess my first suggestion would be to try one of those pressure bleeders.

WAIT ONE DAMNABLE SECOND HERE!

You got individual lines coming off the master cylinder. WHY the heck did you use a proportioning valve?

Take that dang thing OUT.

You do NOT need to proportion your rear brakes when there is a dual line coming off your MC.

And a great bleeding procedure is to open the bleeder, press the pedal, close the bleeder release the pedal. That's all, do that until all the air is gone, should you have air that is.

Pressing the pedal with the line closed only compresses the air and moves very little fluid, I do it the above way becuase it's much faster, and you use the full travel of the pedal which will give you a good idea of the amount of fluid pushed by the master.

I still think you have a bad MC, even though it's the third one

Plus, get that Prop Valve out~