SideOiler Leaking

Nice to see you again. I think a lot of guys are members of more than one forum. I run into "acquaintances" all the time on different forums.

Well the dye doesn't lie....LOL Sounds like the only thing to do is drop the trans and take a peak. Hopefully it's a leaky galley plug or something that's very easy to fix.

Let us know what you find.

Yes, I must be a brave soul and do the right thing. I might be the entire reason oil is $150 a barrel!!
But please someone tell me why galley plugs leak/loosen over time and will they continue to get worse?? Fall out?

Teflon tape is not an ideal sealer. It remains plastic enough to move under heat and pressure. I use only pipe dope on pipe fittings and plugs.
I don't think that is your problem though. Look at the flywheel (flexplate) on both sides. When you have a main leak it can spray from the center of the flywheel out and accumulate on the engine. Then it will drip down after the engine stops.
Look at the junction between the intake and heads at the valve cover gasket and lifter valley too.
They do make engine stop leak but I would never put it in my engine.

Originally Posted by FEpro

KULT,

I currently have two open breathers where the caps are on the valve covers. (older picture). A pan RNR (to clean it), all new gaskets and a thorough inspection of the main revealed a clean and dry condition. The "nails" are in place and all is tidy.

If it were a rear main, would it not leak in operation? It does not leak with the engine hot and running at 2000 on jackstands (with face pressed against the bottom of the Canton.)

Leaves a saucer-sized puddle (not a "spot") on the cat pan after two days and remains that way.

Even with breather caps in place of the filler caps, there is no crankcase ventilation, only crankcase pressure exerting itself somewheres at very high RPM. That pressure has to go somewheres.

What is the oil pressure at extended RPM?

Please keep the board posted as to what you find.

Paul,
Your experience with tape vs. pipe dope is very helpful. Of late I use ARP thread sealant for all pipe-type connections-it is really a "pipe dope" anyway. The tef tape was used a long time ago.
That's also what I was looking to learn-the dynamics of a main leak in operation. So you're saying it will spray radially, coat the forward side of the f'wheel and rear of the block and drip only on cool-down? That would explain why I did not see oil pumping out in my 2000 RPM test look. However, it doesn't explain why it was clean and dry when I had the pan off and inspected it. The main cap showed no oil path or mess at all.
Again, every junction, fitting and crevice on the motor is dry and well sealed. I hate leaks as you can tell. I agree, I don't put crap chemicals in the motor.
KULT,
I am not disputing that crankcase pressure can hurt a rear main, only saying that I see no evidence of that. For the record, the oil fill tube also has a breather, so now it wears four, and I admit they are passive not PCV'd. I always wanted to try a drag-style crankcase vacuum pump on which I've seen data which says it helps 15-30 HP as well as ring seal. But there's absolutely no room in a dual-purpose Cobra for that.
Hot pressure near 7000 is approx 85 psi but I'm sweating bullets trying to keep straight and not time to view gauge data.
You guys are great with info and I thank all for the interest in this problem. As said above, I will post the old pics of the plug area when Wifey scans the photos, (soon) just as a point of info.
Looking more and more like I've gotta tear down and get in there, I will drive the car while good weather remains here in the East. I've lived with this for a long time and I'm fed up so when winter maintenance comes I will correct. But I needed the insight you all gave to educate me. Can't thank all enough.
Will continue to post and will definitely reveal the mystery.
Thanks all and welcome your advice.

Hey, a quick afterthought: is there any sense to drop the pan and just change the rear seal, good or bad, rather than rip out half the car to investigate?? Pros/Cons? At worst I think it can make no difference, except for the effort involved.
Any one care to detail the procedure with cautions and pitfalls? (there are always pitfalls when I work). I've never done it in the car rather than an engine stand.

I don't think I would try a main seal change in the car. They're hard enough to get them perfect on an engine stand. Then if the leak is something up higher and you get an additional leak, you'll really be ticked. LOL

I would imagine for the time it would take to remove the oil pan, and fight with a rear seal, you could almost have the trans out. You got a buddy that could come and give you a quick hand?

Are you using a Lakewood, or do you have an older bellhousing with an inspection cover?

I agree. Take the time to find the problem. If you start shooting in the dark you might make things worse or just spend a lot of time and money needlessly.

Guys, thanks for the excellent advice and the concensus again. It's really that much PIA and tricky to change in the car, eh?
My experience is that when calling for "buddies", they're all on their boats that weekend.
Paul,
At risk of hijacking my own thread, your sig says you're a Holley specialist.
My blueprinted 600's (now 654's) as you can see are vac sec's. They operate perfectly. I just went through them to replace diaphrams (old) and found Phil omitted the check balls. Pro or con-need them or not? What does removing them accomplish? They have always been this way so I have no baseline with them in vs. now.
Will post the block pics today. (I hope)

As promised:

Originally Posted by FEpro

Paul,
At risk of hijacking my own thread, your sig says you're a Holley specialist.
My blueprinted 600's (now 654's) as you can see are vac sec's. They operate perfectly. I just went through them to replace diaphrams (old) and found Phil omitted the check balls. Pro or con-need them or not? What does removing them accomplish? They have always been this way so I have no baseline with them in vs. now.
Will post the block pics today. (I hope)

FEpro,
the check ball is there to protect the diaphragm against damage from backfire through the carb. I always make sure they are in place but some guys (the ones who haven't been through Holley's classes) think it speeds up the operation of the secondaries. It really does nothing for the speed of opening but if you have a lean backfire it will keep the rubber from rupturing. The ball will not seat on the low side but it seats on the top.
Now that you know why they are used it will probably pop in the next week and blow the cover off...
Did he take out the check ball on the power valve too? It is there for the same reason.