Monster C4 Thread Text - Edited (Way Long) Version2

Here are some pictures i took of our C4 that twisted the input shaft and cracked open the forward drum , then strippe dout the inside splines. This is the second time this happened this year. We are running a fox body Mustang with 100 shot nitrous 302, 300 stall with trans lock running 7.50's and 1.60 60 foot. I learned alot from this forum about hardened shafts and weilded up forward drums so I purchased them and included them with the old parts in these pictures.



Here is a closeup of the cracked drum and the new welded drum. They weld up the peanut shape holes to streathen the drum hub.

Sorry for the messpelling[img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_bow.gif[/img] 3000 stall not 300.

More pictures ...


These 2 pictures are of the input shaft next to the new shaft. Notice the twist on the splines that go into the convertor. Actually the end that went into the cracked drum was fine and untwisted.


Both drums next to each other.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 64 TBOLT on 1/16/07 10:02pm ]</font>

Hey, I copied this and saved it on my laptop. I'm out of town on business for a few months, and internet time here is very limited (only 15 minutes a day). I read the main article in entirety, but ,forgive me if this has already been asked/answered. I am totally ignorant on transmissions, and hope to rectify this situation. I just bought a "built" C5 from a friend (who claims it is good up to 500 HP-I plan on going up to 550 HP with a 347, in a 67 Mustang Coupe, mainly for drag racing), and plan on making it better.
First off, What is an R and H servo? Also, I see Trans Brake Valve bodies, and Reverse Manual Valve Bodies. Most of the orignal writers of the main article say they prefer Manual Vlave Bodies. What is the difference between a Reverse Manual, and a Manual Valve Body? Well, that is it for now, I'll be sure to write down my questions tonight for better reference. Thanks in advance. JL