Front Servo Leak?

I am not a trans guy, so be gentle.

Chasing a leak on my Falcon. Started a week or so ago while parked. Car hadn't been run for a few weeks, ran it for some tuning, came out to garage next night and had a 13" puddle on the floor.

1st thought was the front cooler line fitting to the case. It's still the OE Ford unit with the o-ring and jam nut. Changed it out last night (had to cut a hole in the floor to get to it, grrr) and that slowed the flow but did not stop it. The OE fitting was bad, o-ring was dead and theads were stripped on the jam nut.

Sprayed area down with brake clean, dried it all off and in about 20 minutes it starts puddling in the depression between servo cover and fitting.

It is appearing that the leak is from the top of the servo cover mating area. Is this possible? Area between the two top retaining bolts is wet at the gasket. I used clean pipe cleaners to probe around the fitting and they come out dry and white.

If it is the servo gasket / seal (I don't know what's behind the cover, a bearded lady maybe?) can I replace this in the car without dropping the trans? Thanks to my new 'access panel' I have clear access to the cover but I am uncertain as to what to expect if I unbolt it.

I am also unable to tell you what servo it has although I can get the casting number off of it if needed.

Thanks for your help, hoping to get back to the track tomorrow night.

It is doable in the vehicle.

Tighten the adjuster screw to prevent the apply and anchor pins from falling out of position.

Snug with a short 5/16" wrench is sufficient.

There will be some fluid leaking out so have a container under that area.

Remove the four bolts.
The servo should pop out.
There is a spring in there but nothing that will remove any portion of your body.
If the servo won't pop out you may have to persuade it.
There is a gasket on the cover.
Scrape both the cover and case down to metal.
While you are in there remove the piston from the servo and replace the "O" rings.
Put a dab of grease on the cover then stick the gasket to it.
No sealant is necessary.
To ease installation you can use 2 guide studs.
Once the servo has been installed adjust the band,
Tighten the adjuster to 10 foot pounds and back it off 1 1/2 turns.
Check the servo cover bolts again.
Now crawl out from under the car, throw your head back and say, I sure showed that mofo.

If you are having trouble with the gasket leaking on the servo cover then use a thin film (.010") of Loc-tite "Gasket Maker" on both sides of the gasket. Don't use any grease to hold it in place the Gasket Maker will hold it in place just fine. Bolt the cover down and torque it to 18-20 foot pounds in three steps. Tighten the four bolts to just snug, then to 15 foot pounds and finally to 20 foot pounds. The Gasket Maker will cure before you get the final torque adjustment and it will never leak. The gasket maker will peal away with the gasket easily for the next rebuild leaving you with a clean surface to work with next time.
Note: Don't get the gasket maker on the bolt threads. If you do you won't get the proper torque on them because the sealant will cure and they will get hard to turn before you have them torqued down. They don't require sealant anyway so just use the thinnest film on the gasket that you can get on it.