c4 400hp build

Im new to this site, and also new to building transmissions so im sorry if this a repetative question but im just trying to get good advice for my particular setup. My question is, what parts/modifications do you guys suggest for building a c4 to handle around 400hp on a track driven car. The trans is behind a ford 2.3 turbo. my understanding is a nice rebuild, some alto red clutches, factory bands, manual vb and a servo would do well. is this correct? The car wont be driven on the road too much but would still like it to be streetable.

*edit*- the trans is out of a 71 pinto 2.3

Hello and welcome.
You pretty much have it there .. I'd put a 5th clutch in the high/reverse clutch also.

If this is a drag car with a large turbo, you may consider a trans brake on your VB to allow spooling before launch, depending on your setup. Other excellent setups for this purpose are using an EFI with ALS (Anti Lag System) or using a very small momentary shot of nitrous just at/after launch to spool to full boost. Each style has it's own pros and cons.

You also added that it's a Pinto tranny, be sure you're running at least 5 clutches in both packs, as stock Pinto drums may only hold 3 or 4 forwards and 2 or 3 directs (except the V6 and station wagon versions). Don't forget to run a 1-way bleed and restrictor on your modulator line or a boost-capable modulator if no trans brake.

FWIW,
David

PSI can you tell me about the one way bleed restrictor? I've tried setups using 2 oneway valves etc but in the end now with boosted stuff i go to manual valvebody.. Sounds like you've done this before .

Originally Posted by PSIG

If this is a drag car with a large turbo, you may consider a trans brake on your VB to allow spooling before launch, depending on your setup. Other excellent setups for this purpose are using an EFI with ALS (Anti Lag System) or using a very small momentary shot of nitrous just at/after launch to spool to full boost. Each style has it's own pros and cons.

You also added that it's a Pinto tranny, be sure you're running at least 5 clutches in both packs, as stock Pinto drums may only hold 3 or 4 forwards and 2 or 3 directs (except the V6 and station wagon versions). Don't forget to run a 1-way bleed and restrictor on your modulator line or a boost-capable modulator if no trans brake.

FWIW,
David

If I'm not mistaken (happens all the time! LOL) i thought that the Governor also could be replaced from a V8 trans. Otherwise throttle induced downshifts will come too easy at too low a speed.
I also converted my original pinto trans to a "v8" trans. I added a late model clutch pack (4 i think) and the Governor from the same trans. Then i bought a B&M shift kitted valve body as well. The long route for sure but i got away for about $300 with stock rebuilt parts.

GL with the Turbo Pinto!

Originally Posted by gregaust

PSI can you tell me about the one way bleed restrictor? I've tried setups using 2 oneway valves etc but in the end now with boosted stuff i go to manual valvebody.. Sounds like you've done this before .

Sure Greg, with the various transmissions I can't always know if 'pushing' the modulator past neutral (atmospheric) will cause problems, so I always add the restricted bleed. It usually works well. You need an inline restriction, a Tee-fitting and a one-way valve.

Coming from the engine side, the line is cut and the restrictor pressed in the tube. The restriction seems to work well for most trannys at .020 to .030 inch (.5-.75mm) and a MIG welder tip is an easy cheap source for the restrictor. I use .023 tips and turn them on the lathe or just chuck one in a drill and file a section to fit in the tubing snugly, hack it off, and press it in deep enough for the Tee to go in after it.

Next, add the Tee fitting and the rest of the tubing to the modulator. Off the Tee put your one-way valve so it will blow to free air but not suck air into the line. No filter needed. I choose valves that are easy to unseat as some are surprisingly difficult to open - although that fact is likely not as critical in this situation as it is when used with other devices - but I still like easy. A big valve for flow is not necessary as the restrictor minimizes that issue, however a simple mouth-blow test will tell you if it at least flows more than the restrictor.

With this setup, you get normal vacuum control all the way to boost level, and stable zero vacuum/pressure thereafter with fast recovery to vacuum. Keeping the parts close to the modulator and not using a huge 1-way will ensure a fast response and no difference to a stock setup. When driving normally (off-boost) it shifts normally. An interesting note is that this system also has worked well on electronic transmissions that use a manifold pressure (MAP) sensor and I have used it on one of my own ETC trannys with excellent results.

Hope that helps,
David

David
Thanks for taking the time to explain .. Sounds like a good setup.. Its different to what i tried . I am about to try an auto shift with turbo/efi windsor and your setup is what i'll try .
I was given some time ago a setup with 2 oneway valves but it didn't work. I tried a few different valves of different weights and still held vac in the line . In the end i went to manual valvebodies ..

Thank you for the fast replies, where should I buy everything from. Im trying hard to do this on the cheap.

Try Broader Performance Home Page or bulkparts.com

Originally Posted by gregaust

..I am about to try an auto shift with turbo/efi windsor and your setup is what i'll try.

You may want to add more of these for other stuff like vacuum systems and non-vented fuel tanks. It's also the ticket for supercharger setups. Some folks try to source vacuum from before the blower, but that gives vacuum even at higher power levels, when the manifold is actually under boost. With this setup the tranny shifts with the proper firmness for the power actually being produced. There are lots of rodders around that want electric windows, power seats, a blower, and auto-shift. It's a solution for them as well.

David