used tranny-do i need a new front seal?

Thanks for all the info, I replaced the seals and put the tranny in the car know I need to figure out the kickdown. the car originally had a straight six with a 2 speed, i kept the engine but, like I mentioned earlier, i replaced the 2 speed with a c4. the 2 speed kickdown was made up of three rods, the first connected to the carb, the second went across the bell hosing, and the third attached to the kickdown arm on the tranny. I would insert a picture of it if i could find one Any ideas? all info is appiciated

It would only behoove you to tell us which of the several hundred models of FORD that you are putting this into...

There are a few different kick down systems... The C-4 is a Pull type.

sorry, it's a 63 ford fairlane, I would just put a cable on it but a rod (like what was originally on it) is ment to PUSH, and a cable is ment to PULL, this is where I see the problem

If I could see the throttle system on your rig I'd be able to fab something up no problem.

I don't know how to post pictures from my own collection, but I'll look on the internet for one, i know how to post pics that way all I can really discribe without too much confusion is that the plate along side the carb that the rod originally connected to swings toward the rear of the car when the accelerator is pressed

This is the best picture on the internet i could find, like I said before, I don't know how to insert pictures from my own computer, paste doesn't seem to work you can see on the pic of the 170, my set-up looks the same, sry it isn't very detailed

http://www.billwrigley.com/vintage/10.jpg

Some C4s use the push method - a few others use the pull method. Both return to the "at rest" position so get under it and check which way it goes. You might find that you have a simple solution at hand.

Originally Posted by PaulS1950

Some C4s use the push method - a few others use the pull method. Both return to the "at rest" position so get under it and check which way it goes. You might find that you have a simple solution at hand.

If a person had to they could just take the nut and arm off and put the arm back on-so it could go push or pull (if the arm pointed up, for instance, it can be removed and put back on pointinf down, as long as it doesnt interfere with the shifting linkage) I would need a longer third rod like I mentioned before- I just don't want it not working right and getting caught between gears, that's why I rather rig up a cable