Clutch Porn

I just went downstairs and measured the thickness of my disk that had started to disintegrate. It was 0.325" thick, and still hooked up with 4 turns of preload. I installed the new disk with one turn, and will probably back it down to zero turns, as I didn't feel any slippage. I believe my base is 800, just like yours.

When I first got the sintered iron setup, I went from a 2800-3200lb pressure plate with an organic disk, then the same plate with a bronze (WAY aggressive... either on of off) then the iron. I thought I was being 'safe' and ordered the 1200# base, and it was too much. I then had it backed down, to 800#, I believe. I'll probably leave it there, even if it doesn't slip at zero turns.... I'll just turn up the preload as it wears. LOL!

I don't really know what you mean by "plenty of play in the fork", as when I adjust mine for around an inch or two of pedal free travel, everything is kind of equally loose, with the spring between the frame and fork holding everything from falling loose.

Hope it works out this time!

Mike

Hey Dennis,ever thought of going to a C4? Just curious. Maybe I'd rather have pink shirt syndrome than gray clutch powder on my shirt.

Originally Posted by n2omike

I don't really know what you mean by "plenty of play in the fork", as when I adjust mine for around an inch or two of pedal free travel, everything is kind of equally loose, with the spring between the frame and fork holding everything from falling loose.

What you are repeating to me is exactly what I am trying to say. The "plenty of fork" comment meant that I could shove the fork end back (overcoming the frame assist spring) maybe 1/4" or so. The fork "seems' to pivot nicely on its fulcrum, although I can't really see inside the fork hole due to the headers, frame, other misc crap that is in the way. Examining the fork shows not strange marks and the spring still is mounted tight. I had just about 1 1/2" of free play at the pedal.

What I haven't done is actually watch the linkage from under the car when the pedal is being pushed by another. I guess the new wife will get a little driver's seat time in the Mustang (although it won't be leaving the garage with her in it.)

Mike, how did you know that the 1200lbs base was "too aggressive?????"

Originally Posted by Just Jim

Hey Dennis,ever thought of going to a C4? Just curious. Maybe I'd rather have pink shirt syndrome than gray clutch powder on my shirt.

NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just kidding. Yeah Jim, I'm certainly giving it some thought. In the past, I've taken my brother's low 10 second Camaro down the track a few times and we agree that it seems a little boring compared to slamming and possibly missing gears every once in awhile.

This year, his solution to spice it up was to keep the automatic (for consistency) and add Banks Twin Turbos!!!!! He is pushing "only" 800 dyno HP due to using the stock block. It should soon be making its first strip trip.

Originally Posted by dennis111

What I haven't done is actually watch the linkage from under the car when the pedal is being pushed by another. I guess the new wife will get a little driver's seat time in the Mustang (although it won't be leaving the garage with her in it.)

Might be a good idea... but she might like it, and want you to build her one! Hmmm... Hope she can afford it! LOL!

Mike, how did you know that the 1200lbs base was "too aggressive?????"

Even backed all the way off, there was zero slippage at all. It was locked up tighter than my ole' man... and there isn't ANYTHING that comes between him and the almighty dollar!

Looking at the pictures of your burnt flywheel and pressure plate.... It looks like the pressure is primarily distributed at three points. It would lead me to believe that the pressure plate was warped somehow. The consistency of the burnt areas, all being between the three areas where the bolts mount is also interesting. If there is a way, you should bolt the pressure plate up without the disk, and see if the distance between the plate and flywheel is consistent. If you could check for warpage, it might clear up some questions. One thing that springs to mind, is the mounting with those spacers. (washers) The plate in my pp is set deeper in the housing, so the red housing rests directly against the flywheel. A setup like yours doesn't seem to have the same 'foundation'... Could it be pulling out of shape when bolted down or under load????

I could be running down dead-end roads, but the burnt areas do indicate that there is uneven pressure. Maybe you could email RAM the pictures of the plate and flywheel, then talk with them on the phone while they are looking at them. Maybe they will have an idea of what is going on.

Oh, the comment about using a slush-box... BORING!!! May as well be sitting on the couch playing a video game! LOL! Real hotrods have THREE pedals. It takes a MAN to drive a stick! If you want excitement, drive a stick with nitrous.

Good Luck!

Oh, the comment about using a slush-box... BORING!!! May as well be sitting on the couch playing a video game! LOL! Real hotrods have THREE pedals. It takes a MAN to drive a stick! If you want excitement, drive a stick with nitrous.

Good Luck!

Trying to keep a super short wheelbase car between the lines while shifting a C4 to 6.80's in the 1/8 (10.60's 1/4) is enough excitement for me but hey,I'm old. No nitrous required as "bottles are for babies".

Racing with a stick might be fun for the occasional trip down the track though. To be consistent and go rounds in bracket racing a stick and or nitrous just isn't going to cut it. Some tracks like the one Dennis goes to have a stick class which levels the playing field somewhat .

My Morris and Datsun both had three pedals but now only have two.

Just razzin' ya'.

The stickshift and nitrous, although being more fun (for me) are also done in the name of streetability.

The nitrous allows a person to build a mid 10 second car that is fairly 'mild', runs on pump gas and offers a much longer service life... compared to a n/a 10 second mustang.

The stickshift allows the car to run the street without a loose 8" converter... and still go quick at the track.

The car can run all over town n/a on pump gas, and still smoke the crap out of the tires as much as a person wants using radials.... but replace the fuel with race gas, turn the valve on, and add slicks... and it's GO TIME!

Fun on the street and fun on the track.

Automatics, however, are easier to get to work on the starting line, and tend to be easier on the drivetrain.

Good Luck!

[quote=Just Jim;1413521]Trying to keep a super short wheelbase car between the lines while shifting a C4 to 6.80's in the 1/8 (10.60's 1/4) is enough excitement for me but hey,I'm old. No nitrous required as "bottles are for babies".

Racing with a stick might be fun for the occasional trip down the track though. To be consistent and go rounds in bracket racing a stick and or nitrous just isn't going to cut it. Some tracks like the one Dennis goes to have a stick class which levels the playing field somewhat .

I think John Calvert might disagree with this statement.

I love drag racing a stick!
An auto though would prove to be much more consistant... however, I love it when you overhear people syaing "holy %$*& that car is a 4 speed!".

I will admit though... banging gears has given me a few scares at the track!

Dennis... I showed your pics to a buddy of mine who is a "real" racer... runs a high 8-low 9 second '68 hemi cuda in the hemi series and holds NHRA SS/AA records... all with a 4 speed!
Anyway, the first thing he said was "something is not right... that wear pattern tells me the plate is either warped or the tranny is not centered".

I know it doesnt help solve the issue...

Any and all suggestions are certainly welcome Trevor. In my internet searches and posts on some trusted web sites, I have yet to find someone who had the same problem.

Once I get the flywheel resurfaced, I'll do the Scattershield dial in (again.) Of course I am not looking forward to doing it from under the car.

I was turned on to an interesting site that is manual transmission specific: http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/default.asp (United Manual Transmission Racers.) It will require signing up. There is lots of good info there on setting up race clutches and many members also run their's on the street too. I wish I had knew of it before I ran my experiment . . . . .

The PP has been delivered to Ram. Hopefully once it is rebuilt and installed, the problems will be gone. I am certainly smarter about these clutches now and my expectations are again high that it will all work out.