Clutch Porn

Here are some "exclusive inside" photos of my recent Ram Sintered Disc installation. As to what is going on, use your imagination. Enjoy!!!!

















Yes, it will get some street duty too.

It acts like an on/off switch and is somewhat difficult to start out from a stop sign in first gear without the tires giving a little chirp. I've just started to drive it this way so I am sure I will get the hang of it. Start out on a hill on some loose gravel, forget it. Other gears changes seem to work very well. Not something I would let the wife drive around town. ;-)

So little info seems to exist on the net about installation of these very popular type drag race clutches. One day (when things slow down in the garage), I will detail the installation in a Tech Exchange article.

Sweet!!!

You have officially elevated yourself from "sleeper" to "race car"!
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

Now stop it! You are killing my budget!

With practice, you'll find the clutch is not aggressive at all taking off. It's just a non-compressible disk, so the friction point is very short. Just release it to where the car starts moving, and leave it there. It should not 'chatter', and bang on and off like a older style bronze friction puck clutch would. Mine is actually VERY smooth. However, sometimes the CLUTCH will let out a metallic squeak as it engages that can be mistaken for a tire chirp.

If it's not chattering between engagement and disengagement, it's engaging smoothly.

Keep getting practice!

Good Luck!

That's a PURDY little clutch you got there Mister

That one has the adjustable counterweights for the initial hit right? Either way...very, very nice =).

Shhhh!! Don't tell him I told you...but if that IS an adjustable lol, and you have any trouble setting it up...call Jay. That guy is fookin magic with a clutch lol.

Cris

Originally Posted by Is1BadFord

That one has the adjustable counterweights for the initial hit right? Either way...very, very nice =).

Shhhh!! Don't tell him I told you...but if that IS an adjustable lol, and you have any trouble setting it up...call Jay. That guy is fookin magic with a clutch lol.

Cris

Hey Cris, I would give you one guess who personally steered me this way but it seems that you already know who. ;-) Project Red Death comes to mind.

Yes, the PP is adjustable. That is the reason for the marked hole in the scattershield and the red marks shown on the balancer.

Originally Posted by Thordane65

Sweet!!!

You have officially elevated yourself from "sleeper" to "race car"!
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

Now stop it! You are killing my budget!

LOL

Be sure to be sitting down when you check the price of those 6 "required" studs and the small assortment of alignment washers shown in the 3rd pic. . . . . . . Ouch

Dennis,
That is the same disc I was forced to goto after blowing through 2 of the puck disc types. Easy to get use to. But, it'll hold for sure! I can tell you that Iron disc will hold my engine and a 180 shot right outta the hole. There comes a point when you have to get off the Street/Strip fence and choose. This is where it starts! hehe.

Dennis, this is the set up I ideally would like to end up with. Curious what static pressure you're running right now. Did you use shims to get the static pressure down? Look forward to hearing what it does once you get it dialed in. Keep up the good work!

Originally Posted by 289nate

Dennis, this is the set up I ideally would like to end up with. Curious what static pressure you're running right now. Did you use shims to get the static pressure down? Look forward to hearing what it does once you get it dialed in. Keep up the good work!

I have been cautious on the street with the static pressure. Static pressure changes are made with an allen wrench through the hole in the bellhousing (7th pic.) There are 6 adjustment screws that need turned to change pressure. Currently the screws are backed out 3 full turns, which it 1160lbs. Base is 800lbs. Better to be on the heavy side and back off to find the sweet spot for the drags. Not sure what to expect with the slicks and a sticky track, but expect to backoff at least a full turn or 2 once I get it dialed in. Each full turn of all 6 bolts is 120lbs.

The marks shown on the balancer coincide (last pic) with the location of the screw heads in the bellhousing. All I need to do is align a red mark with my timing pointer and a bolt head will be in position for adjustment.

The washers are used to adjust the pressure plate distance from the flywheel. That distance is predetermined by ram and in my case is 1.975"--this is measured using a dial caliper through a small hole in the PP--see the 6th pic down. Once you have .010 wear, you are supposed to remove a .010 shim washer. The washers come in .050 and .010 thicknesses. I have maybe .0100 of washers on there to start with to get the 1.976 shown.

I have gotten much better with first gear on the street--from a dead stop, just leave out the pedal to the point the car starts to move and hold it there until the car gets moving, then let the clutch out the rest of the way. Just a slightly different way that normal due to the on/off nature of the clutch. As mentioned, sometimes there is a metalic squeek which can sound like a tire chirp. There are no issues with the other gears. Remember that this is a race clutch with its own driving characteristics and you will be fine. It has the capability of taking Everything you can through at it. My neighbor uses one in his ProStock turbocharged 5 speed 8.6@160mph 5 speed car and it still looks great after 3 years of weekend use.