Removing front sway bar

Okay, I have always raced with my front sway bar on and have had the car leave pretty hard and straight. The thing I was wondering is if I was to remove the front sway bar, would it make the weight transfer that much better and make the car leave harder off the line? The car is mostly street driven, but just for once, I would like to take it to the track and run it w/o it to see if it really makes a difference w/o it. I don't have any special shocks or springs, just some KYB gas-a-just and stock springs. -Mike

Anything that frees up the front end will help the rear tires bite more. Not only do you get less resistance to front end travel when you remove the sway bar, you also loose some weight off the front of the car.

How much gain depends on how well you already hook. I would imagine the increase would only be seen in a change in the magnitude of a couple hundreds off your 60'er.

Drag friendly front shocks and springs would have a more pronounced effect with starting line traction which could result into a change in the tenths. The Calvert 90/10's front drag shocks that I recently installed seem to give a much better street ride than the old Summit/CE's, even without the front sway bar being installed. More expensive QA1 Stocker Stars are knob adjustable and should serve well in street/strip duty.

On my car, I just remove the driver's side sway bar link and leave the bar and pass side link attached. It's just less of a hassle, since I go back and forth between street and strip so much.

My car responds very well to having that endlink removed.

Make a run as-is, then make another pass with the link removed and see what happens.

Good luck!

Greg

Believe it or not my Mustang picked up 3/10ths when I dropped the sway bar off! It run 15.0's time after time & so I pulled off the sway bar completly, next run it went 14.7! made my day!

Thanks guys. I'm gonna have to try running it w/o to see if it will make a difference. Also knowing I don't have to drop the whole bar will make it less of a hassle to do at the track. I still have to finish getting my door bars welded in because I have a feeling it might dip into the 10s this year if the things I did over the Winter pan out. Then again, I'm not so sure I want to go that fast in a convertible and might just stay in the mid 11s and just be happy with that. The funny thing is, I never thought this car would be as fast as it is now and if anyone ever told me that the pile of crap I bought almost 15 years ago would be close to running in the 10s, I would have fallen out of my chair laughing.

Originally Posted by blown68

. The funny thing is, I never thought this car would be as fast as it is now and if anyone ever told me that the pile of crap I bought almost 15 years ago would be close to running in the 10s, I would have fallen out of my chair laughing.

Ditto to that
I have Old school KYBs to on my 65 stang with 1" swaybar
running 225/50R-16 Nitto DOT DRs on all fours,with the swaybar fully functional i managed 1.82 60 foot ussing 19PSI
this is with 3.25 gear with fat driver at 3250#
I thought i only had a 2800-2900 stall,but with this pumpgas 347 with 195cc Canfields and Jay Allen Hyd Roller and victor Jr,it now stalls around 3300
without any carb tuning (Pro Systems),on first pass with full exhaust to rear bumper it clicked off 11.70 at 116.8mph
I am setup for cornering with 620# front coils and five leaf reverse eyes in the rear
The car is so amazingly street friendly and the lowend torque blows my mind,even without an overdrive trans i can average about 14mpg on the highway

My car as well as speed shops have no sway bar on any car . They run super stock with 427 . If you run your car on highway without sway bar any car will get harder to drive at a high speed .

Going into a curve pushes and coming out the car when you ask it to turn it will not come back as well with sway bar . I would leave it on if highway use . Near had to change my pants once , easier to change sway bar . OK NO HIGH SPEED HIGHWAY DRIVING