What do I get when I make 20+ more HP?

Senselessly uncontrollable!

Finally made it to the track today for a little T&T. First time I've been there this year with the .030 overbore, AFR 205's, Calvert front 90/10's and the Ram adjustable clutch.

I set the clutch for 920lb static pressure. Got a decent 1.66 60'er, but found the clutch slipped pretty good going into 4th. Gave the clutch another 120lbs of static pressure and again I got a decent 60'er and the clutch was still slipping into 4th. Both 1/8 miles sucked as I left off the car once the clutch hesitated to lock up. I then added another 120lbs and that took care of the 4th gear slippage, but then the 60's instantly moved into the 1.9 range. Grrrrrrr. I left the clutch alone the rest of the day--it ended up adjusted the same as I had been running the car on the street the last few weeks.

Has anyone ever played with counterweights for these clutches? Can they be added to my PP? I am wondering if this is something I should pursue in the future.

From there I moved onto launch RPM and tire pressure changes. I also raised the rev limiter to 6400rpm since I was bouncing off it at the far end of the track. The 4th run give me a new best MPH (117.46--previous 117.15), but with only a 12.682 ET. Hot lapped it and knocked out a 12.135@118.32 (highest mph of the day.) My opponent did 11.286@118.81. He was almost a second faster, with practically the same MPH and a tenth quicker 60'er.

I was granny shifting my car all day, as I still haven't gotten the hang of shifting with the new clutch. Luckily I didn't miss any shifts in 9 runs. Irregardless the car was pulling the wheels at the line AND a little higher on the 1st to 2nd shift. Got to love that aspect of the new clutch. Yes Thordane, I am still using the pedestal motor mounts--but I have added a sturdy chain from the block to the sway bar bracket. On most of my complete runs I hit 28mph from the 1/8 to traps, which I think isn't too shabby.

Car at this time was running very stable and seemed to like going down the track as much as I did.

Next run I cut a 12.10@117.43, which was the quickest ET of the day. I had tons of those low 12' time slips last season, only most at a lowly 113-114 mph

Finally decided to pull a plug and see how it was running and it was lean. Jetted it up 3 sizes on the front and took it down the track. Instant HP!!!!!! I literally could not keep my foot in it as the car got squirrelly anywhere in 2nd and 3rd gear (with 15lbs of air in the MT's.) I upped the pressure 2lbs, dropped the rev limiter, and went for one last ride. Again as I hit 2nd and 3rd gears the car got squirrelly. Decided I had enough fun and put it er' on the trailer.

If only I could figure out how to get the car/driver to perform better on the first half of the track to get those ET's down--I need a good crew cheif!!!!! Or maybe an automatic tranny?--Nope, still don't want to do that. I know how to make the car go mph faster, but getting the ET lower just hasn't been in my grasp.

For next weekend, the car will have a new pair of slicks. Most likely going to a 26/10-15. My little 26/8.5's just about have no depth hole showing so I know that a change is due. That, and plus an increase in launch RPM should get my 60's back. As far as shifting, I suppose I need to spend an hour or two sitting in the car (with it stationary) shoving the clutch and rowing the shifter.

Keep on workin with it Dennis.With the heads and clutch change you made,I think that things gonna fly when you get it sorted out.
Keep us updated and good luck!

Great to see you're out bangin' on that thing, Dennis! Some new tires are DEFINITELY due. Worn out 26x8.5's aren't gonna' cut it.

I'm surprised the clutch slipped in 4th gear at that pressure. Did it slip bad, or just slip a little then grab? Mine works with less pressure than that, and I'm running nitrous.



It doesn't look like your clutch is set up to be able to use counterweight. Look at where the clutch fingers pivot... Yours is rounded off at the pivot point, but mine has a tab that sticks out with a hole in it to stick a 1/4" bolt through. The tab, and any weight added with a bolt and washers provides centrifugal load. For what it's worth, the tab is there on mine, but I don't have any weight added. If you wanted to be able add centrifugal assist, the plate can be shipped back to Ram, and they can swap the fingers for ones that have the tab on the back of them.

You might want to call RAM at the first of the week. I'd also ask the guys at mustangsandmore. Alex might be able to give you some good info.

Of course, new tires may be all it needs. Fix that before getting too worried about it.

Good Luck!

You never mentioned anything about the weather. Wondering if that may have something to do with your slower times. What jet sizes did you up it too?? Your still moving on out in my book......

Well that sucks Dennis but at least your making good power and didn't hurt anything...

68Fastang and Frdnut. Thanks. I am certainly not ready to give up on it, just getting a little erked that it runs better and yet my driving sucks. I did feel rusty and was bouncing off the 6400 rev limiter all day during shifts. I couldn't practice shifting on the street like I used to as the rear end wants to slide all over on street tires. Felt the same way when I upped the jets at the track. I'd give it gas and the back end would go squirrelly, let off and straighten it out, then repeat process. I was being reasonably easy on the car (fresh motor) but certainly expected it to be consistently in the 11's. By the time I get it all figured out, I should be able to write a book about what works on my car and what doesn't.

Spali, it was 60 degrees and sunny. Humidity started high in the morning (overnight rain) but decreased throughout the day. According to the track flags, there was a strong head wind all day, which is typical for our airport based track. That would have scruffed a little MPH off it for sure. Of course MPH wasn't a real concern as I have plenty. Went from a 77 front jet to an 80. Rear stayed at 87, but was at 90 last year.

The car was still pulling hard at the end of the run--wish I had another 1/4 mile to go to see what it would top out at. Watching the speedometer, I found that it is very, very accurate at the traps!!!

N20Mike. I was specifically watching for the 4th gear slippage. It slipped for what was probably a 1/4 second before I left off and coasted it through the traps--certainly longer that I would let a diaphragm clutch go. I didn't want to do damage so I didn't ride it out. Once adjusted to 1160lbs, it hooks up right away. Although I had some decent initial 60's, the timeslips also showed that the clutch was affecting my performance up to the 1/8. Perhaps once the clutch got hot from a couple of runs it would have been fine at a lesser static pressure but I didn't want to risk it. I do plan on revisiting this in the coming weeks after I get my tires, timing and carb dialed in. Even backing off static pressure a 1/2 turn might result in better 60's.

Thanks for the info about the counterweights (and using my pic for an illustration.) Not sure if centrifugal assist would be a plus or not. Works best at higher RPM, but since I run in a fairly narrow band (5000-6400) it might be counterproductive if I want to use a little slippage at the line. I wonder if racers add another window in the bell or do they have to drop it each time?

I still am not used to the pedal "feel" of this clutch. It really isn't as soft as the dual friction or the Spec 2+ diaphragm clutches were. Easy, yes, but the diaphragm clutches were a little easier on the legs. I do not have the big helper spring under the dash. The grabbing point at the pedal is set up higher than the other clutches to better match my 2 step. Ram wants the 2 step to come off before clutch engagement, although that seems backwards to me. Since I had no grinding whatsoever, I will see if I can adjust the 2 step switch closer to the floor and then set the pedal adjustment lower too. Sometimes it is hell having such long legs in such a little car . . . . .

The wider tire should be a big help and something I needed last year. The big problem with them will be they will require that I swap them once I get to the track since my trailer isn't narrow enough (yet) to accept them.

Would like to seek professional help again, but learned last year that videos are required and I don't have a fresh one yet.

Great work on the details!
Your motor sounds (mph) like its making some great HP... and with some more tuning should be where you want it.
I think the issue is related to traction... the bigger tires surely will help. Like mine, those 8.5's have a hard time holding the track when banging gears.

Do you bog at all coming off the line or do you blow the tires off?
Is your pinion angle within range?
Im thinking your 60 foots should be in the high 1.5's... Im sure the new bigger tires will help that.

It would be great to see a video of you leaving the line!
Nice to see the chain!!! LOL

You're picking up 28mph in the last 1/8? WOW!

I thought the whole reason for that type of set up was to have a very low static pressure and then have the centrifugal assist kick in proportional to rpm increasing and the weight being used? I would imagine it would have a pretty big impact on the clutch not slipping excessively on the 3-4 shift even on your lower rpm motor. Adding weight should make up for the lower rpm range.

My understanding is that this type of set up likes to launch at a lower rpm allowing the clutch to slip (rpm where the centrifugal assist hasn't kicked in significantly altering the low static pressure) so you don't bog down by locking up too quickly and dropping you out of your powerband. Shocks the tires less and when dialed in gives you a better 60ft even though you are launching at a lower rpm. At the track and in videos you can see and or hear stick cars that pull the front tires on the initial shock of the clutch engaging off the line then drop down big time in rpm before they come back to life. It has also been explained to me that tuning of these set ups will allow some slip (not like what you've described) on the gear change to keep the rpms for dropping down too much on the gear change. Seems that the advantages of this type of clutch would not be possible without being able to use and tune the centrifugal weights?

The good feedback I've been getting from people more knowledgeable than me is that I have a 10 second car, IF I CAN GET IT TO HOOK and START SPEEDSHIFTING it again.

289Nate, Yes it does seem that the info I've gathered supports what you and I are both thinking. I should have gotten the counterweight PP in the first place for the exact reasons that you explained.

I've ordered my tires and should have them on for this weekend's runs. Not going to mess with the clutch much for now until I start working weekends again next month. I will probably call RAM and inquire about having my PP modded during the work imposed downtime.

I agree that you have a potential 10 second car. Picking up 28 mph on the back half is incredible. Just have to get everything else dialed in which I'm sure you will.