Mission Completed-with icing on the cake :-)

Dennis,

Way to go!

I hate that squirrly feeling at the top end.

Two suggestions re the high speed stability:

1) Dial in at least +3 degrees of Caster
2) I picked up a front spoiler (I think it was from an 80's Buick from a wrecker and mounted it the the frame below the rad. I noticed an immediate improvement even at 80-90 mph.

Dennis while we're talking about high speed stability do the calvert front shocks seem to let the front end settle back down better than the CEs you were running?..I know you were happy with the transfer...

Again, thanks for the input.

I really appreciate the advice on the caster. I haven't had the GT on a rack in several years because the old bias tires are still wearing great, but the tread is starting to wear thin. Luckily my inspection mechanic does alignments and knows how to do old Mustangs. Not sure if he knows what he will be getting into with the big motor and headers which are very close to the upper A-ram bolts.

Jeffstar I do use a spoiler sometimes, but it really hasn't helped. After the new front tires and the alignment, I'll give it another try.

Mike or anyone familiar with the Mustang--What structural parts are the 6 point bars attached too? I suppose the ones that go to the rear floor boards are welded to the torque box, but where to they attach to the front of the car and in the trunk? Are big plates added? Just wondering how much I can add and then later possibly remove should I want to cut the bars out.

Frdnut--Sorry I do not have any witnessed info on whether the Calvert shocks recover or not. I've asked a couple of people after my runs and they weren't paying attention. I will make it a point and try to have an 1/8th mile spotter this week.

Good Luck at the T&T Jim!

nice ride dude i luv the old stangs as well as the new.. i still luv the sound of a 4bbl dumping... music too my ears... brett

Dennis,
I would like to thank you for sharing your experiences! A dream of mine is to drag race my ole Torino. The info you ,and the rest of the experieced racers have shared, would cost years of trial and error. The few guys I know are car show guys, so your experiences provide insight. Thanks again!!
Don

Originally Posted by dennis111

Again, thanks for the input.

Mike or anyone familiar with the Mustang--What structural parts are the 6 point bars attached too? I suppose the ones that go to the rear floor boards are welded to the torque box, but where to they attach to the front of the car and in the trunk? Are big plates added? Just wondering how much I can add and then later possibly remove should I want to cut the bars out.

The rear bars going down through the speaker holes are welded to 6x6 plates welded to the floor above the frame rail. The main hoop is welded to 6x6 plates as well. These plates are bent 90º and welded to the side and bottom. Same for the front bars.

At least that's how I did it.

What headers do you have on your car? Are they the Hooker #6208 swap headers?

Good Luck!

Originally Posted by cornhauler

Dennis,
I would like to thank you for sharing your experiences! A dream of mine is to drag race my ole Torino. The info you ,and the rest of the experieced racers have shared, would cost years of trial and error. The few guys I know are car show guys, so your experiences provide insight. Thanks again!!
Don

Thanks Don.

In the early 70's I also had a late year 68 Torino GT with 428CJ and a 4 speed. It was a large car, but a lot of fun. Man could I leave some super burnouts with that thing. At times I wish I still had it.

Originally Posted by n2omike

The rear bars going down through the speaker holes are welded to 6x6 plates welded to the floor above the frame rail. The main hoop is welded to 6x6 plates as well. These plates are bent 90º and welded to the side and bottom. Same for the front bars.

At least that's how I did it.

What headers do you have on your car? Are they the Hooker #6208 swap headers?

Good Luck!

Thanks Mike--I found an old post of yours that clearly described the mountings. That was a big help.

I run Accufab swap headers.

Originally Posted by dennis111

Again, thanks for the input.

I really appreciate the advice on the caster. I haven't had the GT on a rack in several years because the old bias tires are still wearing great, but the tread is starting to wear thin. Luckily my inspection mechanic does alignments and knows how to do old Mustangs. Not sure if he knows what he will be getting into with the big motor and headers which are very close to the upper A-ram bolts.

Jeffstar I do use a spoiler sometimes, but it really hasn't helped. After the new front tires and the alignment, I'll give it another try.

Mike or anyone familiar with the Mustang--What structural parts are the 6 point bars attached too? I suppose the ones that go to the rear floor boards are welded to the torque box, but where to they attach to the front of the car and in the trunk? Are big plates added? Just wondering how much I can add and then later possibly remove should I want to cut the bars out.

Frdnut--Sorry I do not have any witnessed info on whether the Calvert shocks recover or not. I've asked a couple of people after my runs and they weren't paying attention. I will make it a point and try to have an 1/8th mile spotter this week.

Good Luck at the T&T Jim!

Dennis,
If you do not wish to weld plates to the floor you could use this alternative plate on top of the floor board with a plate on the bottom of the floor board with 4 bolts through the plates sandwiching the floorboard then weld your bars.
ken

Thanks Ken.

Here is an excellent post with lots of basic information on roll bar installation in a unibody car--it is based upon the actual rules for installation and has a good explanation on what you can legally and safely do and cannot do:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/garage/463357-bending-roll-cage-torch.html

I'm still not on board fully with using a roll cage. Being older, I am wondering how much longer I will want to mess with it and will it take the enjoyment out of the car? Yes I want to go faster (and I know the mechanicals are capable) I think that I lose desire to run the car on the street. I would require bars by my head, by my shoulder and most likely will lose foot space in the front (which is already not good with my 6'2" frame.) As it was after Friday night racing, I had thigh cramps out the ying yang.

A better idea for me would be to purchase a full on strip car. Not sure if I really want that commitment, but it does sound fun.

Since I met my original goals for the car, I am thrilled. There are not very many verified mid-11 second NA street cars running around here. For now, I am going to work on my launch consistency and should I get the boot, I'll deal with it in other ways. Thanks to all for the help.