A So-So race night. . . . . .

But I made it to the stick finals again!

First, we ran 4 qualifying runs and my best was an 11.66@120.54 with the best 60'er of the night of 1.70. Seemed like it was going to be a good night, but couldn't get the thing to hook properly. Had to drop the launch RPM from the get go, even with my normal "safe run" 15lbs in the tires. I should have tried lower, but didn't want to mess much with my "canned" safe setup. I had the adjustable clutch set up at a lighter 980lbs and it seemed to be on the border line of grabbing properly or not. Decided to run it that way all night and that was big mistake that cost me in the end. Got to get those counterweights!

During the next to last elimination, I had the bye run. I came up to the line and waited until the light was "very" green so I wouldn't red light. I had a .470 reaction time for that run. LOL I then ran the car hard and noticed that I had clutch slippage going in 4th gear. Oh Oh. I decided not run it out and coasted through the traps @108.77 mph. At the time I was concerned as to how I was going to go into the finals with a slipping clutch and no time was available to add some static pressure to it (plus it was nearing mid-night and the pits suck at night for doing under car work.) I left the clutch alone.

For the finals, I got to run up against the last 3-4 years track stick champion-he has probably 40-50 race win stickers on his windows. Mr. S.S. Furious has a 66' Fury that runs a big block and a typical 11.80 dial. He has the availability of running NOS and I've seen the boat do 11.4's with it during T&T.

Before the final, Mr. Furious comes down to see what he can learn and I didn't have a dial in figured out yet. He asked if I wanted to flip for lanes since we both prefer the LH one. I won the toss and got home turf. He asked if I wanted to dial at 11.80, and I put on a poker face and didn't answer. He knew that my car was quicker N/A and I know that he avoids hitting the NOS during our races. When we were called up, as he was rolling by toward the staging area, I quickly scribbled 11.75 on the window. I was concerned about the clutch slippage and thought that maybe he might breakout as he knew I had the quicker car. (He did last week.) He pulled a typical .0xx something R/T to my not-to-shabby (for me) .164. Due to his lower dial in, he went first and I was pulling on him in 1st and then 2nd gear. Then my earlier miscalculation on clutch static pressure bit me in the ass. The clutch slipped lightly going into 3rd gear (my heart sunk in my chest,) and then hard in to 4th. I left out of it and coasted through the traps with a 12.468@97.29mph to Mr. Fury's 12.1 second run.

So, for the year, I've had 2 races, made it to the finals both times, and have been 1st loser both times.

Here we are staging for the finale:



Of course I am having fun knowing that this year I am in a similar league as the track stick champion. We do a couple of faster stick street cars, but they normally run in the quick-8 outlaw street class (which is auto or stick and has cars that run 9-10 second 1/4's.)

To advance my drag racing career and have even more fun, I am now consider going to other tracks too and joining the Pro/Stick club that is active here in the northeast. Pro Stick Racing They are a bunch of mostly 60's cars, all with sticks or clutched automatics, that run 11.99 seconds or quicker. They make a circuit of various 1/4 mile and 1/8 mile tracks in PA and MD. There are some pretty stout cars in the club, and I've raced with many of them at our track over the past year.

Most of these old cars could be detailed show winners, as there is a lot of pride being shown with these cars. A quick look at that site shows that Mr. S.S Furious was #4 in points in the Pro/Stick club, so I will keep my sights on him. There is a nice picture there of the silver 66 Fury. Other cars of note that are pictured are the purple wheelstanding van that was on Pinks All Out, and my neighbor's (and back yard machinist friend,) Fred House's blue 8.4-8.6@160mph Turbo 4 cylinder Pro modified Ford Probe (which is pictured about 1/2 way down.)

Hey Dennis, Sounds like you are having fun and getting the car dialed in. Fix that slipping clutch and you're all set.

When bracket racing try to just run your own race and don't worry about who's in the other lane. Doesn't matter if it's a quicker or slower car you still have to cut a good light and run the number.Some of the guys will try to play mind games on you before a run by talking too much and trying to get you off your game. Then there are others who play games when staging by taking too long to light the last stage light. Some of the "class champions" aren't too great at cutting a light but win by playing games. Just relax and have fun and ignore the other guy.

Sunday the Morris ran OK and I cut a perfect .500 (.000 some tracks)light only to break out with a 6.88 on a 6.91 dial (1/8 mile). Thursday I raced the Datsun due to the Morris having signs of a blown head gasket. Went 3 rounds in King of the Hill only to break out again by running a 7.26 on a 7.28 dial. The 60 fts were decent at 1.53 but the old driver just went too fast. It was fun anyway.

Originally Posted by dennis111

I had the adjustable clutch set up at a lighter 980lbs and it seemed to be on the border line of grabbing properly or not. Decided to run it that way all night and that was big mistake that cost me in the end. Got to get those counterweights!

I then ran the car hard and noticed that I had clutch slippage going in 4th gear. Oh Oh. I decided not run it out and coasted through the traps @108.77 mph.

Then my earlier miscalculation on clutch static pressure bit me in the ass. The clutch slipped lightly going into 3rd gear (my heart sunk in my chest,) and then hard in to 4th. I left out of it and coasted through the traps with a 12.468@97.29mph to Mr. Fury's 12.1 second run.

Dennis, it still astounds me that the clutch is slipping at that base pressure. My clutch has the centrifugal arms, but there's nothing bolted to them. (of course the tabs on the bare arms do count for something) I was racing mine with one turn of preload, and it was holding just fine, even with the nitrous. The only time it didn't hold, was when the disk material was flaking off AND the disk was also worn thin. STILL, a couple more cranks of preload fixed it right up. Maybe the centrifugal tabs count for a lot more than what I was giving them credit for, or something is different between our setups.

One question came to mind... How much free play is there in the clutch linkage? Is it possible that the engine is torquing up and putting pressure on the clutch? Is your engine tied down TIGHT on the driver's side so this doesn't happen?

Your car should EASILY be pulling 60ft times in the 1.5's or bottom 1.6's oin every run with the 26x10 slicks. Just how hard are you launching it? The HARDER I launch mine, the quicker it goes... as those HARD launches tend to make the Caltracs drive the rear tires into the pavement.

I'd check everything when you take it apart.

I also really enjoy reading your progress! Keep it up!

Good Luck!

Yeah Mike, I don't know if I got a dud or what . . . .

The clutch will slip with 980lbs after a few runs, as evident above. It did OK at 1040lbs though the 2nd time that I tried it. Rather than screw stuff up before I get the PP sent back to ram, I am going to run 1100lbs the next couple of weekends which should be safe. The lower gears are fine, but I can certainly tell when it slips in 3rd and 4th. I don't understand what is going on, but at least with CW's I would have a way to work with it.

My motor has new mounts that I strengthened with bolts through the rubber. The motor is also chained down to the stabilizer bracket, which is sandwiched with two 1/4" steel plates that span the whole bracket. There is less than 1/8" play in the chain links.

I have the clutch pedal engagement point about 1/2" below the normal brake pedal height (about 1 1/2" down for engagement.) This is where I can comfortably power shift. The fork has maybe 1/4" of free air play at this adjustment. There is no play in the linkage except for the fork free air play. The tranny shifts like butter in all gears and locks up fine with the increased static.

I don't understand why this thing doesn't 60 better either. With a 4300rpm launch, it blows the tires off bad. The car literally just sits there spinning, even with the new 10" wide tires. Could it be the torque of my combo?

Anyways, here is my current suspension setup--perhaps someone can see something that stands out as being glaringly wrong:

--26x10x15 ET Drags on 8" rims. 15lbs air. Less makes the car squirrelly. Not the stiff wall type.
--Caltracs set on the upper front hole. 3/4 turn LH preload, 1/2 turn right. The stagger is needed to keep my rear end from heading to the right. I have tried less preload and it didn't help.
--Calvert Mono-leafs.
--Rancho 9 ways set at 3.
--6 cyl front springs.
--Calvert 90/10 front shocks
--No sway bar.
--Car has subframe connectors.
--Spare tire and jack pack left in trunk for ballast.
--1/2-full tank of gas typically for ballast.

The motor pulls hard on the upper end (28+ mile gain in the last 1/8 mile It also "appears" to run strong on the first 1/8" too, just not on paper. No bogs--just goes.

I can't even blame my times on my shifting so much anymore. The stick guys that I know all comment about how well I handle the speed shifts, which is much better this year with the new clutch. About the only thing odd with that is that my 1/8mile observer notices that the rear of the car wants to jump to the right during the 3 to 4th gear change.

Originally Posted by Just Jim

Hey Dennis, Sounds like you are having fun and getting the car dialed in. Fix that slipping clutch and you're all set.

When bracket racing try to just run your own race and don't worry about who's in the other lane. Doesn't matter if it's a quicker or slower car you still have to cut a good light and run the number.Some of the guys will try to play mind games on you before a run by talking too much and trying to get you off your game. Then there are others who play games when staging by taking too long to light the last stage light. Some of the "class champions" aren't too great at cutting a light but win by playing games. Just relax and have fun and ignore the other guy.

Sunday the Morris ran OK and I cut a perfect .500 (.000 some tracks)light only to break out with a 6.88 on a 6.91 dial (1/8 mile). Thursday I raced the Datsun due to the Morris having signs of a blown head gasket. Went 3 rounds in King of the Hill only to break out again by running a 7.26 on a 7.28 dial. The 60 fts were decent at 1.53 but the old driver just went too fast. It was fun anyway.

Thanks Jim. The car just keeps wanting to resist me, although I do make gains on it once in a while.

I know that mind-games are part of the race. It is kind of cool to be approached (for the first time) by the track champion who had little to say to me last year. He does know how to row his 4 speed and .0xx lights are quite common with his Fury.

In some ways I think that it would be cool to have all the fine cars that you run. Then I think of all the maintenance issues that goes with it, plus the decision as to which car to take to whatever race. You obviously take the fun to a different level!

I'd put about an inch of free play at the top of the clutch travel just to make sure things aren't getting torqed around and partially disengaging the clutch.

Next, you've got some sort of chassis problem. Normally, more preload needs applied to the passenger side rear tire, as driveshaft torque puts load on the driver's side. Yours is the other way around. I'd present the above information to Alex at M&M, and see what he says. You may need to scale the car to get more information.

Good Luck!

Hey Mike, I also found that Dennis's preload is completely different than mine. We discussed this in a previous post but I think Dennis has tried everything. Pretty wierd though.

Dennis,

Our cars are similar and I'm surprised that you're not really yanking the front wheels with the 393 power and Caltracs.

I don't seem to have traction problems as long as I warm the tires enough. Perhaps the softer aspect of the iron clutch makes a difference.
or maybe the 28x9 slick gives that much more bite?

Originally Posted by n2omike

I'd put about an inch of free play at the top of the clutch travel just to make sure things aren't getting torqed around and partially disengaging the clutch.

I cannot conceive how raising the pedal adjustment higher will help prevent clutch slippage. If anything, that should give it a better chance to slip.

Originally Posted by n2omike

Next, you've got some sort of chassis problem. Normally, more preload needs applied to the passenger side rear tire, as driveshaft torque puts load on the driver's side. Yours is the other way around. I'd present the above information to Alex at M&M, and see what he says. You may need to scale the car to get more information.

Good Luck!

I know that I need professional help, (both mentally and mechanically. LOL) I will post some info there and see if anything turns up.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by dennis111

I cannot conceive how raising the pedal adjustment higher will help prevent clutch slippage. If anything, that should give it a better chance to slip.

I believe we're seeing things differently. On my car, you can push the clutch pedal in around an inch or two before the clutch starts to disengage. That's what I am referring to. If you don't have any free-play with the clutch pedal all the way up, then any torquing and binding can cause the clutch linkage to partially disengage the clutch.

As for the chassis... You need to make sure that the rear is square in the car, everything is tight, and nothing is moving around under power.

The driver's side is the more heavily loaded tire under power, which -generally- causes a car to go LEFT. It's the reason the passenger's side generally gets extra pre-load... to put more load on that side for more equal traction. Your car going to the right is backwards! LOL This is the reason cars with an 'open' rear differential spin the RIGHT side tire. The driveshaft torques the driver's side tire down into the ground, giving it more traction, and allowing the right rear wheel to spin. I don't know what's up with your car... Again, ask Alex at M&M. He's the one I go to when I have an early mustang specific drag racing question. Being a very experienced Super Stock record holder with a '65 mustang makes him a very good source for stuff like this! He's been there and done that, and does it to other's cars for a living.

Good Luck!