power numbers for a newbie

Hi. I have been reading the posts and website for a while and thought I would post a question about my combo for my 1966 mustang. I would like to know possibly the e.t., trap speed, and horsepower (fly or wheel).

-1968 302 (.020 over)
-Stock crank underground 10/10
-Stock rods
-Speed Pro Hyper. pistons (flattop, 9.0 compression)
-Ford SVO Windage tray
-Melling High Volume pump
-AFR 165 street heads (1.90/1.60)
-Edelbrock RPM manifold
-600 Edlebrock carb
-1" open carb spacer
-14" air filter w/ 7/8" drop base
-Pertronix Ignition
-Tri-y headers through dual straight pipes (2 1/4&quot[img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img] into 2 Flowmaster two chamber mufflers (no turn downs)
-Custom Crower cam 274/278 (adver), 236/240 (@.050.) +4 adv. w/ .501 lift on both, 108 centerline.
-Solid Crower lifters
-Crower pushrods
-Crower Stainless Steel Roller Rockers
-Crower valve springs 125#/300#
-Flexalite fan 15'' diameter (6 blade)

Trans-
1966 c-4 auto with Transgo shift kit
Hughes 2000 stall (all I could afford at the time)

Rear
8" w/ open 3.00 ( hopeing to change to steeper gear soon.) Great for one tire fires.

Tires
really old 205-60R 14.

The car weighs about 3200 with driver and gas.

It is a realtively simple build and sounds awesome. Just want to see what some of you readers think and maybe how I might improve the combination (I know some things will need to be changed). I would like to see mid 12's in this car.
Thanks for the input.

engine looks good, make sure you get at least 9:1 compression or that long duration cam won't work as good as it could. might want to look into getting the block decked if you've got room.
with an open rear and without good tires/traction you're not gonna get in the 12's.

mill heads or change pistons to bring compression to 10:1 (if the heads are milled more than .015 or so, the intake may have to be milled too). Make sure block is decked square and pistons even with deck or .005 in the hole and use a .039 compressed FelPro head gasket (1011-2 I think) to obtain good quench. Cam sounds pretty good...a bit more lift would not hurt. Use a cam that will make power to 6500 at least. Put ARP bolts in the rods and use ARP studs for the crank mains. Get a windage tray too. Are those shelby tri-ys?...there are much better tri-ys and 4 tube headers out there.

_________________
Tracy Blackford: Corona, Ca
'65 FB Mustang 331, 282S cam, ported 351W heads. T5z, 3.50 9" posi.
346 RWHP@6400 on a warm spring day (335 RWHP SAE corr.)


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: blkfrd on 11/12/06 1:56am ]</font>

You could switch to 1.7 ratio rockers to get a little bit more lift, if that's what you wanted.

thanks for the replies. After I built the stock bottom end I bought the AFR heads and went with the solid cam and matching valve train. It was my first engine build and there are definitely things I would do differently now. I only have about 2500 miles on the engine and already want to change things. Thinking about a 331 stroker with 10.0 pistons and cam with little milder specs and more lift.