After realizing my electrical system was all messed up from bad judgement over the years, It was time to redo it! I had a vision of what I wanted to create, and went for it! I assembled all my electronics onto a board, and used a 96 Crown Victoria fuse box. I then took all of the circuits out of the fuse panel and ran them through a relay. Using 680 Ohm resistors I made up some LED lights to install on the board. These lights coming on will signify power supply out of the relay, which will cut trouble shooting time in half. I also replaced the Maxi-Fuse's with Maxi-Breakers (Type#3 manual reset).
NOS solenoids, NOS fuel pump, Transbrake, LineLoc, WOT, switches connect ground to the negative side of the relay coil. All components out of Painless switch box: Fan , water pump, fuel pump etc. are switched on the positive side of the relay coil. See video for some more insight. Another relay was added to disengage Wide open throttle switch while Transbrake is activated. A green light was mounted on the Tach to let me know the WOT relay is working to deactivate the Wide Open Throttle switch. When Transbrake is activated, it also supplies 12volts to the MSD 3-Step "Launch rpm". When LineLoc is activated, 12volts are supplied to "Burnout RPM" mode of the MSD 3-Step. Looking at the schematic should answer any questions. The violet wire from the MSD Timing retard box is connected to the postive out on the Ignition/Starter solenoid. This retards the timing 10 degrees while starting. The other three leads at this time are put together and switch by toggle to retard timing 6 degrees for running Nitrous.
I got into paint shop and created a schematic for what I had created. Seemed like the schematic took longer to make than the board!
Fix those electrical issues... Your safety and your investment depend on it!
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Rick in Indy "408 Clevor" 9.64@137 1.30 60ft
Holy hell thats awesome! Great Vid also!
I did some small re-wiring for my Fans, fuel pump, and water pump. I built little fuse board to house the relays and fuse block. I thought i did a great job. Now i realize im in the minors LOL!
I made my schematic also, but with paper and pencil! LOL Where did you get that program? That was waaay cool.
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Life long project. No it wont ever end....
Thanks for the "Holy Hell". I use PaintShop Pro 7. Any paint program would work. It was VERY time consuming to draw out. But, a laminated copy of the schematic will be going in my race trailer.
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Rick in Indy "408 Clevor" 9.64@137 1.30 60ft
Thanks for the "Holy Hell". I use PaintShop Pro 7. Any paint program would work. It was VERY time consuming to draw out. But, a laminated copy of the schematic will be going in my race trailer.
Ok, but how did you get all the pictures of the MSD box and relays etc? are those available separatly or did you draw those up? If so dammmm you must be a Wizard. Now about my brain.......
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Life long project. No it wont ever end....
All was hand drawn Except: the image of the distributor, Coil, purge button, launch controller, and toggle switches. Those were copied and pasted onto the schematic from another MSD schematic. You might look at the images of the MSD 6al and the MSD retard box and think those were copied too. NOT! I drew those. Don't ask me to do a schematic on your brain! I'm sure all circuits goto SEX & Drag Racing! hehe.
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Rick in Indy "408 Clevor" 9.64@137 1.30 60ft
Man, Nice write up on this electrical setup. You said it best " I had a vision of what I wanted to create, and went for it! " ON electrical sometimes can be intimidating. You have got my brain working on what needs to be done to my hotrod. I got to get rid of the rats nest under my dash. If I had a problem as it stands now it would take me a week to diagnose. Thanks for great info !
Larry Waters Jr
You know thats one hell of an electrical board. But I was thinking that maybe something smaller and less intimidating for most of us that just have a couple of extra things added. Maybe something like what I did.
My fuse board Pic in the attachment.
The power comes straight from the battery in the trunk into that Stereo power dist block. I have a 8 gage wire running into the fuse block and then a 14 gage fusible link for the rest of the power to the normal circuits on the car.
This all stemmed from the Starter that i bought. A CSI that has its own solenoid. They state to not use the Ford solenoid with their starter. Ok then. Now what? So i just eliminated it all together.
All the relays run the fuel pump, water pump, and the electric fans and the power is fused and through the circuit breakers ( prob overkill, but went with the instructions on that). Plus i now have an extra couple of fuses for future items if need be. However no more room for relays. So the one i added for the electric choke is just hanging in the area and a stray wire just shooting in from nowhere LOL!
I took the hidden route just cause I wanted a more stock feel on the interior so its rather cramped on the board. Its inside the glove compartment and to the side next to the "fresh air" conduit. Also i put the Crane Hi6 on the back of the glove compartment to also stay hidden and near the power source.
Please don't think that I'm trying to hijack your thread, I'm not. just thought that between your Masterful creation and my simple board that we could take a little from column a, and a little from column b
Again 2 thumbs Way Way up for your article.
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Life long project. No it wont ever end....