Valve Adjustment made easier

I've done it this way in the past and it does seem to work well... but as gregaust pointed out you may not necessarily be on the 'base circle' at TDC depending on the cam grind. The only place you're guaranteed to be on the base circle is one full crank rotation (180 degrees on the cam) from the peak of the lobe. This method gets you about 45 (cam) degrees from that position on both lobes, or 90 crank degrees. I think on most cams that is fine, but I've switched to using the Exhaust Open/Intake Close method just to be on the safe side. Honestly, it's either a 15 minute job using this method, or a 30 minute job using the EOIC method, I only do it once or twice a year (solid lifter cam) so I don't mind spending the extra 15 mins. No disrespect to the poster, this is definitely a nice simple 'idiot proof' way to do it.

I just did this today and had no problems. Saved me from building some lactic acid and like 15 minutes good post.

Maybe this tip should have a disclaimer attached.

Clearly there are cam profiles out there where the cam lobe is taking up lash with the piston still at TDC. These would all be wild cams and for the most part we would be talking about SOLID cam and lifter vlavetrains (I don't think I have stretched the fact too much with that statement).

This tip would be aimed at folks (like me) who build our hot rods primaily for street use and some occasional fun at the strip using mild to moderate cams and primarily hydraulic cams.

I you are a dedicated racer ... I'm going to assume this tip won't impede your better judgement about the components you are using and how to best set them up

Thanks for all the input.

Interesting method. I use to years ago do the adjustment with engine running and a valve cover that I had cut open to keep oil from running all willy nilly on my block and headers. I have been using the remote starter method for some time now and adjust front to back one cylinder at a time with 1/2 turn on the preload. Might try and up it to 3/4.
Everyone shold have one of those remote starters in their tool box, they are cheap and a damn good device to have around.
Good post Mach
Ras Daniel

Good point MonsterMach... and one other thing I just took into consideration: with a hydro cam (flat or roller), the amount off the base circle at TDC is most likely completely insignificant compared to the variation between 1/4 turn preload and 3/4 turn preload (which people seem to use anywhere in-between depending on personal preference with no reprocussions). So, the only time you might want to be overly cautious would be in the case that you've got a REALLY wild hydro cam, or a moderately wild solid lifter cam (which require more precise lash adjustment).

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For the real wild roller cams if the intake valve is wide open then the exhaust valve is closed at the bottom of the lobe IF the exhaust valve is is wide open then the intake is closed . I found this to be a for sure way to be on the bottom of the lobe.

Whenever I adjusted hydraulic lifters I did it with the engine running, using oil deflector clips and a valve cover with the top cut out. The only thing I'll add that wasn't mentioned is that I always used a vacuum gauge during the adjustment. You can tell if you get a lifter too tight because the gauge will start jumping instead of being steady.

hi, just stumbled upon this thread - very interesting. my brother thinks that i might have a 'sticking valve' , theres a missfire and i think it was the hydrocarbons are all over the shop if im correct. im not the mechanic of the family - brother is lol but anyway he's asked me to find out what the correct valve clearence is - engine is a 1968 429 thunderjet with c8ve heads. shall i do what the first post says???? engine says its done 47000 miles most likely 447000 and hasnt been apart in a long long long time. i cant adjust the timing as the distributor seems to be siesed in the block - will not move at all ;-( and it has a patronix flamethrower ingnition kit on it.

hopefully i can get this sorted before thee car show this weekend - 280 mile round trip.

should i go ahead with the firs posts advice or not???

This method is fine, but if you have a degree tape attached to your crankshaft dampner, and marked it every 45 degrees, you will be more accurate in adjusting valve lash.

Start with the first cylinder in the firing order at 0 degrees, adjust those valves, then adjust the valves for each cylinder in the firing order every 45 degrees of crankshaft rotation. You will adjust all of the valves in two crankshaft roations with each cylinder at top dead center.

A lot more accurate than chalking the distributor at each plug wire.