Hooker 6134, Pan fill trans mod?

What is the pan fill mod to use hooker 6134's? Used to relocate the trans dipstick?

I purchased a Hughe's aluminum replacement pan that holds an
extra quart but you can use yours if you wish. Any replacement
aluminum pan will work - you don't need to break the bank.
If you use the original ( or replacement ) you need to transfere
the dipstick hole position to the opposite side but 1/8 inch lower.
That means drilling (for aluminum) or slight welding for steel. I
bought a $12 TCI conversion kit that allows the stock dip-tube
to thread right in reguardless of where you put it. Just drill and
mount the adapter. Look to the bottom of this page:

http://www.tciauto.com/components/transmission_pans.htm

If you go this route the adapter fits any and anyones pan. When
you install on the left side remember to stay 1/8 inch lower with
the hole so the inner lock nut has clearance.
The tube is an easy fix. Cut it cleanly 2" below the second bend ( that's on the riser section not the bend into the pan ) but make sure you scribe mate-marks before cutting because your going to rotate the upper section 180 degrees in so making a right-hand filler tube into a left-hand with exactly the same profile but mount to the back of the left side head. Cut the original mount tab off. I used a slip-tube with the same inside
diameter as the outside diameter of the fill tube. After cleaning
the inner surface of the slip-tube and outer of the dip tube,
I lightly coated them with metal epoxy ( I used JB Weld but
you can use any brand. This stuff will cold join and fill engine
blocks) and slipped the tubes into the coupling until the ends
butted inside. My slip-tube was 2" long with 1" of each tube
inserted. Put the 2-part metal epoxy on the female ends of the
tube sections and stay back 1/8 inch from the ends - you do
not want an epoxy ring inside the tube. Clean off all excess on
the outside. Clean, paint, and mount using a band d-clamp or
just weld the original mount back on. Total time is about 1 hr
and the new pan looks shockingly fantastic. Pans come with a
new filter and gasket, finned and extra capacity for cooling and
are 1" lower than original.

Blaster
l

Jetfixr

If you want to install the headers here are a few notes from my
installation:
1- The Hookers fit perfect without chopping towers but I used
heavier guage collector tapers than supplied.
2- I did not and would not jack the left side of the car 3 ft to
put that side header in. Too risky and too much stress on
the unibody. Removed the master and dropped in from the
top. Easier than the right side. Hoist would be easiest.
3- Joined collector to original exhaust pipes using flexi-pipe
to get it to jobber as I already had duels.
4-Used a combination of Taylor 90 degree and 135 degree wires
to circumvent any heat issues. Buy two sets for a four-cyl to
get the combo instead of two sets for an eight.
5-Dip stick indicates as original and no leaks at the joint as it
super strong and above the fill level anyway.
6-Shot the pan with the same paint color as the rockers and
air-cleaner, removing the paint off the raised lettering.
7-No issues with tranny shift mechanism but I do use a Lokar
kick-down cable and B&M cable Quicksilver on the console.
8-Absolutely the best mod/install I have done since restoring
the car. The SuperComps are jetted inside and out and it
boggles the eyes to look at them when mounted because
of their equal length.

Thanks Blaster. Installed the headers a few months ago. I installed from the top also, by lifting one side of the engine at a time. I wen't with all 90deg. plug boots. Fit great.

I bought a Hughe's deep pan also. That's where I'm having the trouble. Did you weld the original hole closed or?

Thanks
Steve

No Ididn't weld it, I bought a Hughe's for a case fill tranny which
has no holes at all - just the flat bosses. You can tap and plug
the existing hole probably cheaper than welding and there won't
be any distortion. If the pan has a threaded fitting already to
accept the dip-tube, clean the threaded area with laquer thinner
and fill with metal-epoxy then file or grind flat. I've been a millwright for 25 years so believe me when I say that metal epoxy
is as strong as the metal it fills/joins and is not subject to heat and
cold expansion.

I am surprised by the issue you guys are running into. I put the 6134s on my 64 with 289 & C4 withouth any interference with the trans. Is this because mine is case fill?

I did run into the left collector hitting the floor. A little work with a big hammer and some slightly elongated header bolt holes made this work.

I burned 2 straight plug wires too. Am converting to 90* boots.

Yeah, Clearance issue is because of the Pan fill. TCI dipstick will fit with the stock pan though. But, if you switch to a Deep Aluminum pan the clearance drops to less then 2" on the passenger side.

I didn't have any clearance problems with the floor.

90 deg Spark plug boots are a must have!

2 1/2" pipes, summit x-pipe and Flowmasters sound and look great.

Later
Steve