65 Fairlane weird volt pulse at +wire coming from ignition.

Im soo confused Ive asked, Ive searched, Ive pondered. I have no clue whats going on here. I need help. Its a 65 fairlane sedan. One of the ugliest I know. The problem Im having is Im getting a pulse out of the wire that comes through the firewall that runs to the coil. When key is turned to ON it pulses on my voltmeter from 0 to about 10 then when turned to START it drops. Im really lost and I do believe this is why Im not getting any power to my coil/no fire at my plugs. The only resistor I could find under dash that was anywhere near the ignition was a flasher style resistor so i though what the heck it may be bad so I replaced it and still no luck. Thank you for reading and any insight would be much appreciated.

Sme TARD, wired the car up wrong... There should be no resistor between the ignition and the coil... FOrd used resistor style wires for that in 65 I'm ALMOST positive... I might be a year off though.

Anyhow, the wire going to the coil should be 12V and switched, if used with a ballast resistor and should come from a 12V source if using a resistor wire, all with key in the RUN and START positions.

No pulsating should occur!

FE

My 64 has a resistance wire to drop voltage to the coil on ignition. The starter solenoid provides the 12 volts during cranking. I think 65 is the same.n The only way I knew was with the shop manual wiring. I eliminated it on mine since I went to a later model ignition. I think it was a short section of pink wire under the dash. Will it start with a jumper to 12 volts and the + on coil?

What I forgot to mention is before my factory 2 barrel took a crap on me the car did run just fine. The only thing I removed was water pump, distributor, carb, intake, and coil. Replaced the coil with an accel super stock, a 4 barrel high rise intake and holly 600. Same dizz put back in. I put everything back and it just has this problem now. So im thinking its not the resistor thing. Seeing how i replaced it anyways. Resistance wire? Ive never heard of this. Is this like a resistor in the sense that it can go bad? You say jumper from 12v to the coil? As in run a wire from the battery to the + side of the coil and crank it?

Yep.

Is that safe? I mean I trust you guys and all but I wont burn anything out doing that? Can I just use any size wire to jump it?

Yes, it is what they refer to the proverbial 'hot wire'... Don't run it that way for too long, you'll fry your points up... The resistor wire is pink, and runs from the rear of the ignition switch to a 6 pin plug near the firewall under your hood. If that is bad, NAPA does sell a replacement wire, or you can run a new wire and use an external ballast resistor, or switch to a pertronics conversion kit (recommended). The pusling 10 v ways that something is wired wrong, and probably is a common mistake suffered by ford guys for years. the clicking is coming from your voltage regulator, mainly due to the wires on you solenoid connected to the wrong terminals. BTDT... go to Home Page - The Old Car Manual Project, and go to the manuals section to see a diagram. The wires around the solenoid should be looked at... Before tearing into the wiring too far, check ALL of the ground wires. A bad ground can do wierd things. There should be a wire to the block, of course, plus one to the fire wall from the block, and it does not hurt to run one to the dash frame and voltage regulator. Let us know what you fing, HTH...

It could be from adding that coil. It would draw a lot more current. On my first ignition upgrade I put a non resistor wire in and used the external ballast as mentioned earlier. Let us know.

Hot wire the coil and see if it fires... The only way to chut the car off running it that way is to PULL the lead from the battery+ and turn off the key.

I tryed it and it just went krkrkrkkkrkkakrkakkrak!! Kinda like a grinding sound. But when I took the hot off the coil it didnt do it anymore.