I need master cylinder interchange help.

I pulled my master cylinder off my 63 Fairlane yesterday and I need to know what dual reservior M/C will fit on that car with the least fuss. I know I need a junction block with another port, and some brake line work, but I mainly want to know what M/C will easily interchange? I was thinking one like the one on my 68 Mustang would work. Does anyone know? Thanks!

Originally I pulled the parts off a 68 Falcon for my 64 Fairlane. When it leaked years later that is what I told the parts guy and it was the same. Bolts right in and they are inexpensive.

Well, I am finally getting around to doing this.

LOL, I have to move it out of the driveway now so I must finish it soon!

Here is what I have found. I looked at a new 63 Fairlane m\c and a 68 Mustang m\c, and noticed that the two mounting holes are almost identically spaced. They are about a tenth of an inch different, so if nothing else I will just clearance the mounting holes just a little. The depth of the piston where the rod fits into it seems to be the same too. All I have to do now is get the junction block that has provisions for 2 lines to the master cylinder and add the extra line to the master cylinder. I think this is going to be very easy.

What I might actually do is buy a 77 Granada master cylinder to put on my 68 Mustang (I did a front disc swap but still have the drum\drum dual reservior cylinder on it) and use the one from my 68 Mustang on the Fairlane.

If anyone cares, I will update this when I get done, but there does not seem to be a lot of interest on this subject here.

By all means Keep going. I am waiting to see how you fare with this project.
I will be doing the same to my 65 in the future.

yes, please keep us informed of your brake project. i have a 67 galaxie no power drum brake mc and summit proportioning valve sitting on my work bench right now that i will attempt to install on my 59 convt. am now using a jar lid mc from a 64 galaxie, but need to go to the dual cyl for safety reasons.

Today I bolted the master cylinder up. I just slightly clearanced the inside edge of the driver's side mounting hole and it bolted up just fine.
I think I can re-use my original junction block.
I took the back brake line loose from the junction block and will extend it to the m/c, and plug the port in the block. All that would be needed then would be to make a new line from the block to the m/c.







One thing I ran into was with the pushrods. The short one (the new one from the 68 Mustang m/c) was too short, when I push the pedal down it hits the floorboard before the cylinder is at the end of it's travel.

The long one (the original one) was too long, and the pedal would hit it's stop without letting the piston in the cylinder come all the way back.

I'll will probably go with an adjustable one like this one. Mustangs Plus*::*Brakes*::*Push Rods*::*Adjustable Pushrod kit for power boosters and Manual Master Cylinders I think it will be perfect.

Here is the difference. I don't have to tell you which is the original and which one is new, lol.




On to the brake lines. I haven't bought any lines yet, but I cut a few lengths of cable that I can easily bend to the shape I want my lines, giving me a nice template.


Here they are in place.




At this point I realized that there was a brakelight switch in the original m/c. What I'm thinking about doing is taking the plug out of the junction block where the back brake line came in, and putting the switch in that port.

I'm not sure if this is all going to absolutely work right, but the way I've thought it out in my head seems like everything will work fine. I'm just kind of winging it here, so if anyone has any suggestions or tips, please let me know.

I've got the brake lines bent and installed, I'm just stuck on finding an adapter from 1/8 NPT female to 3/8-24 standard male to put the brakelight switch into the junction block. I called a hardware store tonight and they said they have it, which I will believe when it's in my hand. We'll see tomorrow. I also need to order the adjustable pushrod, I found another one for only 40$ so that's the one I'll be getting. Then I guess it's just a matter of bleeding. I'll take more pics and add them here when I get a chance. 11-12 hour workdays suck.

Nice job! On my '63 I used a master cylinder from a '74 Maverick. I used the original '63 pushrod, and all is well. As you mentioned, I plumbed in a T-fitting for the brake light switch. I also used spindles and disc brakes from a '70 Mustang.

Today I finished it up except for bleeding the system. I'll do that when I have some help.

I ended up coming across an adjustable pushrod for only 10! Motormite part #14554 or Dorman 691-201. I got this one at Autozone. Here is a pic:
https://www.dormanproducts.com/image.../14554-007.jpg

The only bad thing about it is that the hole is "D" shaped instead of round. A few minutes with a dremel fixed that. The other important thing about this to note is that I actually had to cut about 3/4 inch off of the threaded end because it was too long. Here's a pic of the box, and the rod after my 2 mods to it. Hey, 10$ and five minutes worth of modifying beats 40$ in my book anyday.



After I got it adjusted into just the right spot, it's perfect. The piston in the m/c stops when the pedal is about 1/4 inch from the floor. The piston comes all the way back just as the stop on the top of the brake pedal is hitting the dash support.

I pulled the m/c back off and shot a few coats of Cast Coat Iron engine paint on it to keep it looking new and prevent rust. Then I put it back on and tightened the lines. Also notice in this next pic that I found an adapter to attach the brake switch to the junction block. It's actually two pieces. The first piece screws into the junction block, its actually a compression fitting adapter, it has 3/8-24 standard threads on one side (the side that screw into the junction block), and 1/8 NPT male pipe thread on the other. Then I found a 90* 1/8 NPT to 1/8 NPT connector to screw the brake switch and the adapter together. I had to use a 90* because with a straight one there is no room, the firewall is in the way.



I guess all that's left now is to bleed the brakes! It shouldn't be too bad since my complete brake system is brand new except the hard lines.