crossmember help

taking out the c-4 and putting in a t-5 in my 63.using the standard mustang not the s-10 tail shaft, so i have to make my own cross member / trans mount. my question is how do i figure how low or high the trans should hang. do i level the engine? and where the trans hangs thats it? it's a 5-0 if that makes a difference.

could sure use some help, thanks Dave.

I had the same question when I did my swap. Didn't find the real answer so I set mine up with a pinion angle of about 3 degrees if I remember correctly. This was as high as I could place the tranny without touching the floor or hump. The shift cover is pretty much even with the floor after I cut the opening. The drive train runs smooth with out any vibration or binding but I do have quiet a bit of wheel hop which could be contributed to the pinion angle of the differential, weak springs and other factors. There are aftermarket crossmembers available which would probably place the transmission in a more correct position if there is one. I don't think you will be able to level the motor unless you drop it down.
[addsig]

I know its a little late. Before I remove my old tranny, I measure the distance from the center of the output shaft up to the high point of the trans hump. I think it was something like 3.5", don't quote me on that. The T-5 is about 1" longer, which won't affect the pinion angle very much if you weld up your xmember to the same depth.
With everything out, try an angle finder, 3 degrees negative or less I believe is what your looking for.
[addsig]

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On 2007-01-19 13:05, falconeddie wrote:
Hey Ras , How much of that shifter plate that bolts on to the trans comes through the floor? I thought i would have to cut a 3"x4" hole so that the shifter and mounting plate would come through the floor. that would take out the whole top of the crossmember.

Thanks Dave.
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I tried to get the trans up as high as I could hang it without it fouling anything. I notched the floor support on both sides, and only removed the rear section of the reinforcement (that portion that is not spot welded to the tunnel) and only between where I notched it. The front section was left intact and I did the BFH treatment to it bending it right in the middle in the direction of the engine compartment. The top of the T-5 is nearly flush with the inside top of the trans tunnel (hump) on the sides and the front portion is just slightly below.
I h0pe this makes sense.
I also made my own cross member to hang in the original holes. I made drawings and had it fabricated.
I did use the Mustang tail shaft.
Ras Daniel [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]


I drilled out the spot welds that held this section in place after I cut it so I could see the support bracing from above and just what I was getting into.

Here is a view from the top of what you are about to get into.

Here is where I did the damage with the BFH. As you can see I lefet the front of this support intact.

Pro 5.0 shifter from top.


My cross member.

Hope this helps you out.
Ras Daniel [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]
[addsig]

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On 2007-01-21 16:56, retyler wrote:
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On 2007-01-19 13:05, falconeddie wrote:
Hey Ras , How much of that shifter plate that bolts on to the trans comes through the floor? I thought i would have to cut a 3"x4" hole so that the shifter and mounting plate would come through the floor. that would take out the whole top of the crossmember.

Thanks Dave.
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There are a few factors to consider. When I first did my T5 install I only cut a small hole so the shifter and boot would clear and I only had to cut a very small portion of the support. After fabricating the cross member and installing the drive shaft I decided I didn't like the idea of having to drop the tranny to swap out the shifter so I cut out enough for the shifter cover plate to be accessible and removable. This raised the tranny so the shifter cover is even with the sheet metal of the hump and I like the angle of the motor and tranny a lot better since doing it. I think the pinion angle would have been ok either way. Like Ras, I didn't have to cut the entire cross member, only the back portion. I was a little apprehensive at first. Had visions of my car collapsing but that hasn't happened and probably never will. I think the main purpose of that cross member is to support the transmission and not the car itself. Some who have done this conversion have fabricated a cross member to extend to the frame rails. Others have moved the original cross member forward to clear the tranny. I'm going with the frame rail method
and marry it to the transmission crossmember, someday.

Another note: I bolted the transmission to the motor and jacked it up close to the floor and marked where I needed to cut. Saved from going to big or having to re-cut the hump which is never fun. Mark it and drill a hole at the four corners and cut from above.

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On 2007-01-22 14:21, falconeddie wrote:
Thanks!
Ras and retyler for the pictures and the tips. got the hole and crossmember cut (only part of it like you both said) over the weekend while watching DA BEARS play. now just have to design a new crossmember. Any tips? Also will the yoke from the C-4 work on the T-5?.

Thanks again Dave.
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Dave,
I am a wood worker, so like Murff I make patterns and jigs for everything, even when working on the falcon. The nice thing about patters is you can actually trial fit them and if you screw up you have only lost time, and gained experience in the process. Pattern material is cheap and you will find after you screw up the first one the next one you will make in almost half the time. Jig are awesome because once you have perfected the jig you have assured the accuracy of what ever you are going to use it for. I actually used a wooden jig with ply wood and dowels that was reversible for laying out the holes for the control arms when I did the Shelby drop. I think I'm digressing here so back to your question.
If you look at my pics above you will see that it could be made with four pieces as mine was. I had that main support bent into shape but it could be welded as well using round or square stock.
I installed the insulated trans support on the T-5 and had the trans held in position exactly where it was to be positioned. Ether with a jack from below or strapped from above.
I then took a piece of 1/4 ply (previously ripped to size) the thickness of the metal I was going to use say 1 3/8 or 1/12 dia stock.
I then cut five piece of that material in to lengths that represented five of the six pieces to be used in the construction of your cross member.
1st. the horizontal bar that runs under the trans.
2nd. &amp;3rd. the two angular bars that reach upwards towards the floor support that you just cut.
4th. &amp; 5th. the two tabs that later will be cut from channel stock, drilled to receive a bolt to connect to the cross member that you previously cut.
The 6th piece will be the flat plate stock that you will weld to the 1st. piece to receive the bolts on the insulated trans support.
After working out the lengths I needed for these 6 pieces excluding the 6th. the flat plate. I then assembled them in their correct order and attached each of them with a screw so that each could pivot on the other. It was this jig that I used to determine the angles needed and the connection points to the floor support remember the one that you previously cut. Once I was happy with it I then hit it with a hot glue gun to keep it locked in place (optional). Then marked it front and back as you will find the angles differ left to right. Then you can use this jig as the pattern for shaping or welding you metal pieces or transfer the profile to paper.
You could also use cardboard to make the pattern but I like the wood because I always seem to have so much of it around.
Worked for me.
Ras Daniel [img]/forums/images/smiles/icon_cool.gif[/img]

PPS I going to relocate this post and the previous made by yourself an Retyler to the original thread you created "Crossmember help" just makes it easy for other people to follow that have an interest.
Good luck.

Relocated from: http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/fal...56969.html#end



_________________
Horus 1964 Falcon Sprint
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/728238
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_________________
Horus 1964 Falcon Sprint
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/728238
Isis 1963 Falcon Futura
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/732653

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Iethiopian on 1/23/07 8:28am ]</font>