61 Lexan windows?

Hi guys new to the forum. I have a 1961 Falcon gasser I got the car from a gentleman in IL (another barn find). He told me the car had been a gasser for some time but had no other info or history. He took the car in a trade. The car is very well built with a full steel tilt front hood. The hood has been molded into one piece. The car has a full box tubing frame, 9" rear, I-beam front axle, Cragar fronts, Chrome reverse rears with slicks. The engine is set back about 10 degrees. The dash is also set back. I have a new 10 point cage and I building a 408 stroker with a PA C-4 running into a 9 inch with 4:86 gears and a full spool. I am looking for lexan front and rear windows, anyone know of a company who makes then for a 1961 Falcon sedan? Thanks for the help and great forum.

See if your Gasser is in these pictures any where.

BigSam_012/Falcon Gassers - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

cool pics but my car isn't there.

I can make you some......
I am the owner of Coastal Plastics here in San Diego, Ca.
I also have a Falcon ('62) and turning it into a gasser. I can take the patern from my car. What do you need? and how thick?

So........
is there any way you can take some pictures of your Falcon and post them or email them to me?
We are getting ready to I-beam the front with a 64 F-100 axle set up. I'd like to see how your hangers and stearing were done. Plus any sub frame connectors, and rear suspension etc.

thanks,
George

email
coastalplastics@cox.net

Originally Posted by slick mo fo

I can make you some......
I am the owner of Coastal Plastics here in San Diego, Ca.
I also have a Falcon ('62) and turning it into a gasser. I can take the patern from my car. What do you need? and how thick?

So........
is there any way you can take some pictures of your Falcon and post them or email them to me?
We are getting ready to I-beam the front with a 64 F-100 axle set up. I'd like to see how your hangers and stearing were done. Plus any sub frame connectors, and rear suspension etc.

thanks,
George

email
coastalplastics@cox.net

can you seriously do the curve of the front and rear glass? i've got a 62 that will either be taking the chevy van axle from a tired 61 gasser OR i will be resurrecting that 61 gasser.

Plastic lesson for the day........


If you are putting Lexan to replace the glass, it doesn't need to be formed.
1/8" or 3/16" will make that curve if you are going to use sheet metal screws to hold it on, then some silicone to seal it. 1/4" will be to rigid (depending on curve). Acrylic (plexiglass, Lucite) might make the bend but will end up breaking and would need to be thermoformed.
Lexan (polycarbonate) is great for impact, but scratchs very very easy. I learned on this forum a few years back that the circle track guys will use a furniture polish like Pledge and wipe it over the scratched surface and it blends in the scratches for better viewing. It doesn't fix or remove the scratches, just blends it so you don't focus on the scratch. Like a crack in your windshield.

I have quite a few friends with chopped cars that will use polycarbonate or acrylic because they broke their windshield trying to cut it down trying to match the chop.

So yes, if I got your patern I could cut you a blank.

Hey Vince, thanks for sending those pictures. I noticed a few things and have a couple questions and/or comments and thought the others on here might be able to interject.

First off, have you drivin the car?

** I noticed the axle is flipped under the leafs like on a truck, and the wheel wells must of been cut out before this. (the thought of an axle flip had crossed my mind for clearance)
** That ladder bar looks tuff enough to be on a rock climber Jeep. (doubt you'll get any wheel hop with that) very nice!!!!
** "the front leafs" your front hanger is mounted solid and the rear is a shackle. Take a look at the gallery BigSam posted and at trucks with a leaf set up. The shackles are to the front and the solid mounted hanger is to the rear. Opposit of the way a rear end is set up. I think it's for geometry with starting and stopping.
** "steering" does it work ok for you? I'm going to be doing the same set up and I'm very curious how the steering box and the drag link will work with the steering arm. I know we are building "go fast in a straight line" cars but they still need to turn and correct errors at 70-100 mph.

FYI, I'm doing allot of home work and research before I jump head first into this thing. So if I see something, I'll ask or comment.
Stupid questions are better than stupid mistakes.

one of you guys should post those pics! please?

Originally Posted by 69fury

one of you guys should post those pics! please?

Vince, DON'T do it, DON'T DO IT!!!!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHAH
Let them guess whats goiing on......

You an put them on photobucket pretty easy and for free.

Thanks for the reply. When I got the car it was running and I drove it around with open headers, 30 year old brakes and all. It drove "ok" for a S/A car with drums. The steering was fine, not like a sports car but worked well. I do need to get the steering box rebuilt. The only change I have made to the car is new leaf springs, new axles, full spool, gears and new brakes. The car sat a lot lower, but all four of the springs were about 40 years old and worn out. So as you look at the car that's how it was built about 40 years ago. I don't know any of the history other then it came from the Kalamazo, MI area. The guy I got the car from told me he drove it a lot and other then the typical S/A stuff it drove fine he told me he would race down his road in IL, around 120 mph without any trouble.