Falcon will not turn off, again.

2 years ago I had a problem with my 63 Futura not wanting to turn off with the ignition switch. I put a new ignition switch on and that didn't help it still would not turn off.I then replaced the voltage regulator and that was the problem.I'm now starting to have the same thing happen again,it doesn't do it all the time just every once in a while it will not turn off at the ignition switch, and I have to kill the engine by letting the clutch out and holding the brakes on.The regulators I'm using are the Select brand from Oreilly auto parts they aren't cheap about 61.00 list price and I get them for about 26 dollars.I was wondering if any of you have used this brand regulator before and have had any problems with them ? I have a 100 amp alternator on the car but I wouldn't think that would cause the problems I'm having, or could it ? any ideas of a better regulator I can use,or what else to look at as a possible problem ?

Had a problem like this with another car before and it was "run-on" and is sometimes caused by carbon deposits that act as "glow plugs" and keep the engine running. Other than a head rebuild I think there are solenoids that totally close the throttle when power is removed so that no fuel can enter. Hope this helps - dave

when you say it keeps running- do you mean normally or is it "running on" or dieseling? if it's dieseling, the quickest way to flush carbon is a water tune up. (2500 rpm, drizzle (SLOWLY!) a cup of water down the carb and have it burst to steam blowing the carbon out). Seafoam in a vacuum line can do about the same.

if it's truely staying running NORMALLY with the key off, then it's electrical. the fix (if the key cyl is good) involve putting a diode inbetween the alt and the ignition (on some cars- i dont know yours well) this keeps the ignition from being backfed. -been awhile since i had to do that so i may not have the details acurate.

it's not dieseling,and the key switch is new also.I checked the volts at the battery side of the regulator, I'm getting almost 14 volts. I think what I'm going to do is the next time it does it is remove the small back wire on the starter selonoid and see if that kills the engine.then I may have a bad selonoid.if not I must be toasting the regulators.as I said I have a 100 amp alternator and a stock regulator,I may need to go to an electronic regulator.what do you think ?

Originally Posted by bob1963

it's not dieseling,and the key switch is new also.I checked the volts at the battery side of the regulator, I'm getting almost 14 volts. I think what I'm going to do is the next time it does it is remove the small back wire on the starter selonoid and see if that kills the engine.then I may have a bad selonoid.if not I must be toasting the regulators.as I said I have a 100 amp alternator and a stock regulator,I may need to go to an electronic regulator.what do you think ?

that starter wire may be where you'd put a diode (one-way electric checkvalve) to keep her from backfeeding the ignition. i wish i could remember the details.

You normally only need a diode for the one wire charging system, he's using the OEM style regualtor...

I don't see how the regulator can be good and still give feedback throught the system to the ignition coil....

If your car is NOT shutting off and you have the 4 post start soleonoid, MAYBE the second post, (the one that goes to the coil for 12V during cranking) is going bad...

Either way, somehow there is 12V going to the + side of your coil when you shut off the key....

If it's truely the regualtor replace it until it's fixed, but a quick fix would be a diode in the coil + wire...

Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

You normally only need a diode for the one wire charging system, he's using the OEM style regualtor...

I don't see how the regulator can be good and still give feedback throught the system to the ignition coil....

If your car is NOT shutting off and you have the 4 post start soleonoid, MAYBE the second post, (the one that goes to the coil for 12V during cranking) is going bad...

Either way, somehow there is 12V going to the + side of your coil when you shut off the key....

If it's truely the regualtor replace it until it's fixed, but a quick fix would be a diode in the coil + wire...

there ya go- i knew someone would help jog my, um... my..... crap, hold on a minute i just had it.. anyone seen my glasses?

Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

You normally only need a diode for the one wire charging system, he's using the OEM style regualtor...

I don't see how the regulator can be good and still give feedback throught the system to the ignition coil....

If your car is NOT shutting off and you have the 4 post start soleonoid, MAYBE the second post, (the one that goes to the coil for 12V during cranking) is going bad...

Either way, somehow there is 12V going to the + side of your coil when you shut off the key....

If it's truely the regualtor replace it until it's fixed, but a quick fix would be a diode in the coil + wire...

so it looks like your thinking the selonoid could be the problem ,and not the regulator ?

I could have sworn that teh SECOND post on the soleonoid goes to the coil + to give full battery power during cranking.... I could be wrong but that's what I think it's for.....

It's a brown wire I believe....

Hell, I could be remembering something from lunch yesterday and not know it...

In ANY case.. The COIL + is not having the power shut off to it. THIS is what needs to be addressed...

brown wire ? hell the wires on mine are all sorts of colors. when I rewired it I used red,green,blue,purple you name it's under the hood.any way we both are thinking on the same page.the next time it does it if I remove the small back wire on the selonoid and it kills the engine my selonoid is bad.I just wish it would do when I'm at home and not out and about.I hate to have the bowtie poeple see me under the hood in a parking lot. Thanks for the help.